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Posts posted by edinmass
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Gary Buckles at Dayton Wire Wheel in Ohio can have the spokes made for you. You will need to send him samples. You can get them in steel or stainless and polish them. Same thing with the nipples. Figure five dollars to seven dollars each for spokes, plus the nipples and shipping. You can email them instead of a phone call..........probably easier with the time difference.
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A 1927 LaSalle should use a standard Buffalo wheel number five or six. Used ones are occasionally available. No shop will generally work with used spokes or rims. Having spokes made is simple if you send in samples of the four styles of spoke. You can order them and the nipples in any quantities.
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AJ- I’m not going to yell at you, I’m gonna slap you next time I see you. That thing is uglier than your high school girlfriend. Please make a trip to the ophthalmologist............thanks, Ed.- 3
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I have only had the 29 Brunn up to 70mph so far.......maybe next week we will try a speed run!
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Matt Harwood.......you better half needs another car! 😎
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My buddy has a few kicking around, he is out west till December. PM ME a photo and application including series, probably can help you out. We buy bulk 30’s Stromberg and don’t have any use for EE-22’s on our Pierce Arrows. We usually just dump them at Hershey be we stopped vending a few years ago, so we have some accumulated on a shelf. Here are the UUR2-2 & UUR2’s and a few EE-3’s.
Im always looking for 1 3/8 EE-3’s.
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Early Ding Dong Cart? Or is the owner just a ding dong? 😏- 3
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Im not too familiar with the EE-22, but like most Stromberg carbs........they are NOT ALL THE SAME, and don’t just bolt on and run.......unless you want to ruin your engine. Each individual car had a calibrated unit installed with lots more special levers, linkages, and sometimes air horns, brackets, chokes, ect. It’s usually much cheaper to buy the exact correct individual application carburetor you need because it’s fifty times harder to make something else fit and perform correctly than most people think.
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The photos of the Cadillac were taken in Mississippi...........times were hard.
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Just now, alsancle said:
You need to learn to market better.
Im buying, not selling.......😎
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8 minutes ago, alsancle said:
There is something very appealing about an original paint, original condition car. Hopefully the new owner can get it running fairly easily.
Stearns Knight and easy never should appear in the same sentence, paragraph, or even s the same page.
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It’s hard to believe that Lee and Ann have been gone for so long. As the oldest couple on many CCCA tours, I was the youngest member often helped them with luggage, and other details to make their life easier on the road. I enjoyed my time talking to him about his life’s adventures. He was a modest man, knew everyone that was involved in WWII, and was truly a great American.
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Nothing worser than a Mercer...........got to love “the car that made good in a day!”
Slap whoever painted the Stutz yellow.
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Same surround and ashtray was used by Cadillac Fisher & Fleetwood, just a different skin on the ashtray.......it’s a GM Turnsdet design, Cadillac first used it in 1930 and it went till 1941. Install was not consistent over time, and some cars had them, and others didn’t. Cadillac’s often have Buick ash trays in them, because they cost 15 - 20 percent of a Cadillac example. I have a set of Buick inserts for use in out 1930 V-16 phaeton when we will be parking it in an unsecured area as the factory units disappear as fast as 100 dollar bills on a sidewalk.
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That crack looks like it ends at the three core support wires........what some would call a cold flow crack. Usually from a later metal fill in when the casting was made. They can be very thin, or normal thickness. Lock & Stitch is a process sold to anybody who has a credit car. It’s more art than science. It’s NOT easy to do. If your. It talented I wouldn’t recommend trying it at home. I would only use a FULL TIME stitcher. There are several,around. A good stitch is a fine repair and will last longer than the block. Not all areas can be fixed. That said, it’s possible to cut out a bad area and stitch it closed with a new chunk of cast. Sometimes it perfectly fine to stitch it assembled, sometimes not. Location and availability of a known GOOD block would be needed to help more.
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You definitely want to have all your chassis repairs done also. Shocks, springs, what ever rims and tires you intend to run. Get the car in is final configuration, then align it. If you just want to run it a little bit, set the toe in at 1/8-1/4 inch and it will be fine for some test drives.
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Period images to relieve some of the stress
in Period Photos - Pre WWII
Posted · Edited by edinmass (see edit history)
This one is for Walt.........Name the cars and the years..........