edinmass
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Posts posted by edinmass
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This is an American forum. Please speak English! 😎
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25 minutes ago, carbking said:
Ed - unblock my number in your telephone, I promise not to sell you any real estate in western Los Angeles!
Jon
Sorry........it's not blocked. Had an engine running.......V-16 and didn't hear it ring.........I'll give you a buzz back this afternoon........probably 3pm my time.
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I’m impressed. A young gentleman who chases his dream, works hard, and accomplishes his goals. Three thumbs up! 👍👍👍
Hard core, and living the dream. Year round transportation. It’s obvious to me you will go far in your life.
With age…….comes wisdom. I understand you want your car back. Maybe the best plan is purchase another car you can use right away, and buy back the wreck. Over time, you can find a parts car to work with and save your first car. Unless you have access to a full shop, it will take you years to fix the bent car. I sincerely hope it all works out well for you. If you get to southern Florida, PM me and I’ll give you a tour of our museum, and take you for a spin in an American automotive legend.
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2 hours ago, jp1gt said:
The last one I worked on was about 2 years ago. We had a lot of trouble with it but just did what had to be done. I do remember having to take the carb off more times than I wished!!!! A carb mixes air and fuel. I do not remember what we did but it ran great afterwards. OK we have the fact that the carbs are difficult to work on. Maybe some tips? what works and what does not? I used all the old parts.
We use to joke that the carb and manifold should be a quick change set up. I bet I had my first one on and off 50 times……….literally. Problem is so many are modified, there is no general rule until you get into them. Add in distributor issues that are also not right 80 percent of the time……..getting these early Caddy’s going down the road is difficult and time consuming. -
The learning curve to shift is just as important as dialing the car in.......you're very close. And while we all try for perfection, zipping a gear today with modern traffic conditions sometimes can't be helped. Nice car......
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18 minutes ago, Restorer32 said:
Most important tool is an engine hoist so you can remove the engine and detail the entire engine compartment as well as the engine.
The only flaw in this logic, is that it involves actual work.........which 98 percent of people today are unwilling to do.
The engine James posted looks very nice for most drivers...........it's been 25 years since I did one of those like he posted. As far as my opinion........drive it till the wheels fall off, and keep the hood down. I understand pride of ownership.........but in my old age I'm only interested in driving.....let the next guy deal with it. Best of luck with the car...........it looks fine............
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35 minutes ago, 31 LaSalle said:
hi edinmass thanks for your reply to my post on LaSalle carb
I am running with the original vacuum tank
after a long search i managed to get a carb rebuild kit from classic and exotic services troy
I had a feeling this was not an easy job to do
you have confirmed my thoughts ( and scared me )
as i am indeed at the best description a back yard mechanic with a love of early American cars
unfortunately due to ongoing problems with what i believe to be a frozen clutch in my 1928 Chrysler 72 conv
I will have to leave my LaSalle for now
thank you so much for your help
lots of firms in uk think they can rebuild any carb even when they don't know what a Jonson carb is
question is would it work (probably not) pity you don't live in uk
I have serviced about a dozen cars in the UK over the years.........I prefer to repair them in the Cotswolds.......but also have done some service in London. I will be over there next year for the Dorset Steam Fair......and visiting. If you like, Send me the carb and kit, and I will install it for you. I have all the special factory tools to do them.........had them out for show and tell yesterday. No charge on the carb rebuild.........I can do them in my sleep. Maybe some bangers & mashed at the Pub next year? In January a 1929 Caddy was driving through town, and broke down with a vacuum tank issue. He was stunned when I told him I had both carb kits and vacuum tank rebuild kits in stock in my shop. Fixed it in the parking lot where it died........and away he went. Lots of fun to help people like that..........here is the car last week, where I was called to start it as the shop taking care of it had no clue...........so I loaded it on the truck for them.
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Tom………take a look at the points where they pivot on the post. I have seen intermittent arcing from bad/defective/thin insulators that cause crazy and intermittent no spark. Pull all the plugs, and shutoff all the lights, and crank the car over while looking at the distributor. Look for arcing. You can do this with the condensers disconnected also. Send me a photo of the distributor……..If it will fit on my Sun Distributor machine I will run it/set it up for you no charge……….you could also have some weird problem like parts missing, bad ground (I know you said you ran a ground wire.) At this point, I would get a parts diagram, and disassemble the entire thing and do a parts check on it……….strange things happen to distributors over the years……….after having such strange issues with what is a basic and simple set up I have found most of the time it isn’t the mechanic………..it’s some crazy unpredictable and unseeable issue that is causing the problem. How about a few photos…….
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I never understood why Cadillac just didn’t use an old boot with a hole in the bottom of it as a carburetor………it would have been a much better fuel metering device than the Cadillac-Johnson carburetor.-
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5 minutes ago, carbking said:
Just a minor addition to Ed's post, the orifice in the fuel valve is a number 19 drill (0.166 inch).
Jon
Jon......
Not if you buy the new stuff "MOST" people are selling. (It's severely undersized.) There seems to be lots of parts manufacturers that are smarter and more knowledgeable the the people who designed them 100 years ago and change things as they see fit. I have earned a good living doing carburetors on these cars over the years..........including a V-16 the wouldn't go over 35 mph. I flew in to the shop, and fixed the car in under an hour........all I did was put all the old parts back in it and adjust everything. The owner was fit to be tied when he found out he spent a fortune on carb rebuild parts that actually caused all his problems. And yes, the person who I am referring to is a member here.....but I'm sworn to secrecy.
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Do yourself a favor........isolate the distributor from the car. Just jump power and ground wires and see what you get. Battery switches, ignition switches, bad grounds, resistor issues, just remove everything from the list of possibilities. Ignition troubles are not rocket science, but if you have little to no experience dealing with pre war cars.........you're doing yourself a disservice. A skilled mechanic should be able to figure out the issue in less than half an hour. Start with the simple things first........Use a battery and jumper leads to get the car started........go from there.
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Most of the modern aftermarket floats are too big, and get hung up against the bowl, causing lack of fuel flow.......and stuck floats..........most of the needle and seats sold are incorrect and flow only 30 percent of the fuel the factory units did....another reason most of the cars only go 35 mph and crap out......the list is endless.....
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Not hard to set up......terrible.
Most of the parts sold don't fit or are incorrect. Also, over the years 99 percent of the carbs have been modified, so it's a difficult battle. Also, over tighten the nut on the bowl, and presto....you need a replacement carb. Then there are the incorrect springs on the flapper valve....that are not calibrated correctly.......and the adjustments that are so far off it's almost impossible to get a baseline to start from unless you have done 100 of them........
What are you running for a fuel delivery system> Vacuum tank or fuel pump? Is you heated manifold blocked off? It should be. While doing the carb, the distributor should be removed and set up on a distributor tester. The system will work, and it can be reliable........but the learning curve for a back yard mechanic is very, very difficult. Post some under hood photos please....... I will walk you through it.......but I will need photos of the carb and all it's parts disassembled.
PS- 2/3 of the guys who offer services to "rebuild" them have no clue, and never worked on one while on the car...........internet experts with NO CLUE.
I have over 50,000 miles on 1931 Cadillac V-8's over the last 40 years........been there, done that.
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When they handed out ugly, that thing got in line five times. As far as the guy who found it……..he should have tossed it back and kept fishing.
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Post more photos, or I’ll call your wife and tell her you bought a Pierce Arrow……….project! 😏
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I think it’s kind of funny, that I posted photos of the actual car last week, and then nobody figured it out. Go back and look! 🤪-
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Randy……take off those fog lights right now…………🤮
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42 minutes ago, alsancle said:
George, cool picture of the Arno's Albatross! Do you know for sure if Inskip did the bodywork? I do believe it was built in New York so that would make sense.
I prefer the White Albatross! 🥸-
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1 hour ago, Kadee said:
S209PR is PI and has different style of wheel centre hub. I second opinion of alsancle : PII Newport. Some 18 of these cars have been produced.
I read in this thread about a book on the Brewster company. Is there anyone who could post some more details about this book ? Thx !!
I don’t see it…….
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2 hours ago, 1937hd45 said:
Coupe? I thought it was a Four Door.
Nope....it's a coop, as in chicken........just one door.
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PIII cams also had issues………more than PII if my memory serves me. I’m getting too old to pop these heavy engines open and closed. Especially in chassis heavy service. I rather do five normal flat heads or over head engines than one Rolls unit now. My vision is slowly going away…….making things much more difficult than just a few years ago. I can service a DV-32 or a Model J without thinking…………Rolls Royce platforms require you to be at 100 percent at all times………..which gets harder and harder as every month goes by.
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1 minute ago, alsancle said:
I think it is fine for general information and a great tool for your average buff. But I would caution against writing a 2 million dollar check based on it.
Not sure who the author is but they have done a lot of work.
There are some car misidentified………..many old photos of cars now restored with different paint and looks. Overall it’s helpful when looking up a car if you have the J number,-
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4 minutes ago, alsancle said:
Like I said.
Do you know what it ended up selling for?
It sells this Saturday……no reserve.-
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1 hour ago, auburnseeker said:
I already blew my Wadd. It's your turn.
Randy……that was for AJ……not you. 😝-
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Period images to relieve some of the stress
in Period Photos - Pre WWII
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