Guffin

I agree with Frank. The carburetor should not leak but with full choke, gas will be sucked from the carb and gas will drip from the carburetor. On my Hupmobile and Buick, I only use full choke for one to two revolutions of the engine and then push the choke in somewhat. How much you have to try out. One problem with a leaking carburetor is that it will be empty after the car has been standing for a while. If you have a mechanical gas pump it will takes many revolutions of the engine before new gas has filled the carburetor (as on my Buick -32). In hot weather the gas in the carb may also boil out so it is empty wen you try to start the car. Because of this I have put in an electric pump in my Buick -32. I only use the electric pump before starting the engine, to fill the carburetor. With a vacuum tank this is not the problem as long as not all of the gas in the vacuum tank has been leaking out. This may be the case after the car has been standing for some weeks, because it may be difficult to have the needle valve to be completely free from leakage. I used to close the valve under the vacuum tank when I parked my Hupmobile. Recently I found a 6 V operated valve which I mounted under the vacuum tank and connected to the ignition switch. With this I don't have to open the hood and reach for the gas valve every time I take out the Hupp for a ride. Jan.

DizzyDale, regarding copper tubes for fuel lines: In the picture below you can see two copper lines. The uppermost is 76 years old and the other 45 years old and they are not brittle. They can easily be bent without braking. Are there different types of copper tubes? I have also heard about copper tubes becoming brittle but I have never seen any brittle copper tubes.

Buicks 1949 to 1953 had 45 A generators, number GGW-6001B and GGW-6001K resp.. Both use regulator number VBE6001A. Jan

According to Motor's the regulator should be set to max. 47 A on the 6 V generator #1102779 Jan

It must be the largest Buick Series 90 four door sedan. If it has a dividing window between front and rear seat it is a 90L. They also made a open 7 seater Phaeton Model 95. They made 4159 model 90, 514 of 90L and 392 of the Model 95. Sometimes you can find parts for these cars on Ebay. Jan

My daily driver, 1982 Mitsubishi Colt, has had the original Dot4 fluid 23 years now and the brakes works fine. Perhaps the dry climate in Sweden made this possible. Jan

This story was also in a Swedish newspaper a few days ago. A Swedish guy bought the car. In the Swedish article they said the car had no engine. Is this true? Jan

I have always used a light timer to keep my batteries charged during the winter months. The shortest time I can set the timer is 15 minutes a day. that is enough to keep even an old battery charged. I use cheep 4A chargers (one for each battery) that gives maximum output of 14 V (or 7 V for the 6 V charger). The limited voltages makes the current to decrease rapidly when the battery is fully charged. If one battery discharge more rapidly (old battery) the charging current will increase and compensate for the higher rate of discharge. I have used this system for several years and I am satisfied with it. Jan

Sikaflex is a fantastic material. I repaired one of my tires with elastic sikaflex (the cord was not damaged. I also repaired the rubber mounts for the gearshift stick on my 1982 Colt. The only problem is that an opened tube has to be used within a week or so. Don't buy bigger package than you need for the moment. It seems that modern materials are not well accepted for repairing antique cars.

A qustion from somebody who never did it before to somebody who made it before: Is this contact pattern in the attached photo good? I have adjusted my Buick 40-56s rear end. It does not look exactly like in the text books where the contact covers the whole length from toe to heel. This is the bast I could do. Thank you for comments. Jan

If it blinks very fast the current is too high. Probably short circuit somewhere on the line or in the lamp. Jan

I corrected my previous post and added the link to the maker of U2 carbs. here it is again http://www.vintageandclassicreproductions.com/ Jan

I have had an engine called a Ford C engine that looked like a B engine but with pressure fed oil to the bearings. It had a counterweight crank. I put it in an A-Ford I had. The A gearbox fitted exactly. The same engine was produced until around 1960 and was used for many different purposes. Ford used this block in a Marine engine in the 50is. I was going to buy this engine for my boat in 1966 as I was very familiar to the A and B Ford engines. It had a thick head gasket so it could run on kerosine. At that time they offered me there latest model instead, build around a Ford Zephyr (British) 6 cylinder engine. I still have that boat and the Zephyr engine. It runs very nice and quiet Jan

Nice to hear from another Hupp owner. The 1928-29 models are quite different from the 1927. My car has temp gauge on the dash. Jan

This company makes reproductions of the U2 and UX2 carbs. If there is enough demand they will probably make the UU2. http://www.vintageandclassicreproductions.com/ Jan (Sorry, I forgot the link. Here it is

I will argue that the engine should be clean inside even if you don't use detergent oil. One day some crud will get lose and maybe clog an oil line. So if you have an old car running on the old type of oil, CLEAN THE ENGINE as soon as possible and put in modern oil. That may save your engine. Jan

You can use an electronic regulator. I can mail you a shematic diagram if you like. It can be made small and live inside the generator. I have it on my cars and it works well. Many of these old generators can not charge with enough current for the headlamps and tail lamps if you use stronger light than original. The specification for my Buick 1932 is maximum 20 A when cold and 12 A when warm (they don't tell at what temperature!). So if I also have the heater on it will discharge 2 or 3 A.

Thank you Greg. Sweden is far away, but don't be too sure, I may turn up one day. JT, the original oil filter was already changed before I got the car so I don't know exactly how it looked like. Jan

My Hupmobile 1929 has also Steeldraulic brakes. I took off the cloth and put a shrink tube on instead (a plastic tube that shrinks when you apply heat). That protects them better than the cloth covering. Also, if you grease them the grease will come out through the cloth covering (There is a special tool with which you can fill the conduit with grease). The shrink tube protects from water coming into the conduit. Mine has no grease fittings. Jan

Please Kisselman, Take a picture of when you eat your hat and post it. It must be fun to see. My Hupmobile 1929 Century 8 had and still has a full flow oil filter that was standard on the Century 8. Also the 1928 Century 8 had it. It also has pressure fed oil to the piston pins, also unusual at that time. See atatchment Jan

Frank, Here is a photo of the dash. I have heard that a Swedish engineer was working at the Hupp design department in the 20´s. He later moved back to Sweden and took part in the design of the first Volvo car. The Hup is a well designed car with some unusual features for that time. 1928 and 1929 are essentially the same design with full flow oil filter and pressure fed oil to ALL bearings, including the piston pins (through drilled holes in the rods)

I have also been using cylinder oil in my prewar cars. It was recommended by Shell. Texaco also recommended Ursa Super LA 50. Jan

The Hupp was sold in Stockholm by the Hupmobile representative Fredlunds Automobile AB so it has lived in Sweden all its life. The owner traded in the Hupp in 1960 for a Hillman car (now long gone) and the same company sold the car to me. The Hupp had then been standing in a heated garage since 1939 with only 44000 km on the odometer. The tyres were taken by the army during the war. The first owner's son wanted the garage space for the new Hillman and forced his father to sell the car. When I pulled away the Hupp the old man cried. The Hupmobile Century 8 was a rather expensive car. In the USA the list price was a little more than $2000 (More than an Auburn 1929). I paid SKR1600 ($200) for the car which was much money for me at that time. Jan

The first owner (the one I bought the Hupp from) said it came from a car they traded in when they bought the Hupp. It could still be an aftermarket mascot, of cause. Eather the front paw or the rear paw has to be outside the cap, perhaps it isn't a car mascot at all? There is a bolt behind the rear left leg going through the center of the cap. I repaired this bolt and the original was poorly tin soldered to the lion. Anyhow, I think it looks nice and as it has been on the car since it was new, I will keep it on. Jan

See attachment This lion was put on my Hupmobile 1929 Century 8 when it was new. The first owner of the Hupp said it came from an older car they traded in. From which make of car could it be? Jan