yirgaman

My DL looks pretty good and even though it will probably never be finished, I take it to 6-8 shows all within 45 miles of home. All the shows except one feature loud 50's and 60's music and street rods and customs, so mine is the odd ball and is a curiosity, and I like to point out the features of the Dodge.The older attendees usually have memories to share. The one show I enjoy the most is for all unmodified cars up to 1948 and features hand crank hurdy-gurdy monkey grinder music provided by an antique organ group walking the street. I drive this car around once or twice a week depending on the weather - I try to keep it dry, but want to make sure everything works and the gas doesn't get stale. I guess I might put 500 to 600 miles 0n it in a year. The DK is still being put back together after the engine rebuild, and it needs a lot of other stuff too (like a new roof), but my time is really limited due to some family issues. I plan to drive the nuts off this car when I get it running, just because it is taking so long and I really enjoy is size and power. I don't go on tours with the cars. they are always far away take more than a day and I don't trailer. I also don't drive in the dark after the DL was sideswiped by a hit and run driver in the dark. As far as having the cars "judged", the shows I go to, IF they have awards, they are awarded to cars that the award sponsor likes. I really enjoy my cars and hope I'll be able to keep on driving and working on them for a long time.

I will be bringing (6) new 1932 Dodge 8 or Desoto 6 pistons to Hershey they are .040 over. It costs $200 each to have pistons like these made, I was already committed to having 8 of them made for my DK-8 when I ran accross these. I'm asking $400 for all 6 and they will be in my spot in the green field GBJ 38-39. These pistons are somewhere between nonexistant and very scarce. I also posted this on the Desoto forum. Larry Yirga

I will be bringing (6) new 1932 Desoto 6 or Dodge 8 pistons to Hershey. They are .040 over, and I'm asking $400 for all 6. It costs $200 each to have pistons like these made. I was already commited to having 8 made for my Dodge when I ran accross these. They are scarce to non-existant. See me at Green field GBJ 38-39. Larry Yirga

Thank you for your efforts!! also thanks for pointing out these numbers are in the Motors Manuals - I'd completly forgot that. I have the manuals covering almost all years up to about 1988 or so. These 2 generators have been in my garage for so long I didn't remember where they came from - I now recall my wife's mechanic uncle passed them on to me when we were cleaning his garage. Larry

Thanks for the help, you were correct in that I gave the wrong number for the model#, the Delco Remy model is: 1102709, I thought the fist two ones were scratches. Since it's not '39 Pontiac, and it has a wide belt pulley - I still need to know wht it is for. Thanks for any assistance. Larry Yirga

I have 2 generators that I would like to know what they belong to. The first is a 6v Delco Remy with this on the tag; 02709 9K 18. My guess is it's from the '39 Pontiac 6 I used to have - but I'm not sure. The other one is a Chrysler Corp model CDZ 4801A serial 9T40957. It is a 35 amp 6v generator. My best guess here is late 40's or early 50's. Any help ID'ing these 2 would be appreciated. Larry Yirga

My son bought a '78 land Cruiser with 4.11 gears. We need to know the maximum Horsepower and torque at what rpm's to expect for this engine. Can anyone provide that for us ....thanks Larry Yirga

------------------------------------ Dear 1930, thanks for questioning me about taking the U-joint apart. I stand corrected - It does come apart after all, I just wasn't agressive enough. I kept thimking I had to press the joint apart like the later model spicer joints - It was just the reverse, all I had to do was knock the bushings out from the other side after the clips were removed. Any way I got the old one apart, and now I can take the replacement one apart and greas it up before it goes back into the car. It was curious that the 3 U-joints I looked at only had clips on 2 of the 4 bushings (the same ones, in fact) So now I can put clips on all 4 like they should be. Thanks again !! Larry

It appears that these parts are no longer available - just as 1930 said in his reply. even if I found the parts I'm not sure the joint can be taken apart by normal methods in the home garage. I did find a better u-joint in my pile of DL and DK spares, so that's taken care of my problem. This should be a notice to be sure to grease these cars regularly!!! and protect what good parts you still have. Grease is cheap. This U-Joint is used in the 1930 -1932 Dodges and the Chrysler CC and some CD's. The Hollander interchange manual shows the same U-Joint in several other cars @ 1932 - like REO and others - which doesn't make the new/used ones any more easier to find.

I will be doing that in the next day or so - I'm waitiing on some call backs from some parts places first. Larry

I just found another code on the U Joint...... It's 209C maybe that will help if someons has an old Spicer book to cross reference to other cars. Larry

Does anyone know of a source for the front U Joint for the 1930 thru '32 Dodge? Mine is worn pretty badly. It's the same as the front one used on the sixes. It's a Spicer joint, has an "incasted" code of F - 2 - 5 on the center section. Larry Yirga

My Dad always had this friction tape at home when I was little - I'd like to know why it "sparked" when you pull it off quickly? yirgaman

I guess it was only used on the model DF taxicab in '30, probably aren't many of those around. When I said 1930 - 32 I should have excluded the DA. Doesn't matter now anyway since I was able to get the part I needed. Larry

Thanks everyone who tried to help me. I appreciate all your suggestions and advice, they were all good and probably would have done the job, but I found a new tube!!, I got it from Collector Auto Supply in Washington State, cost $40 plus shipping. Larry

Thanks to all you guys who tried to help out....all the suggestions were well received and I appreciate the efforts. I found a new one!! at Collector Auto Supply in Washington State. Cost $40 plus shipping. Larry

Now I know! I called the local NAPA store and the local speed shop earlier, they never heard of it - so I'll call them back now that I know more - thanks .

That whisler timing tube looks like it's worth a try - thanks. What is the real application for this tube? I'm kind'a stuck in the past.

Owen, I had a local hydraulics hose shop make one up, but his crimped-on fittings were big and long and interfered with the bending I need. I also had to use adaptors to step down to my small 1/8 pipe thread. It's too bulky. Other shops around here don't make these things up anymore or use snap on/off connectors. I will look at Restoration Supply's stuff - thanks Larry

For your information - I also posted a thread on the "Technical Forum" asking for help on this grease tube. In that post I said this same part # (391942) was used on Dodges 6's and 8's from 30-32 and Chrysler CO,CT and CQ and Plymouth PB and Desoto SC and SD. I included the same three pictures, and also mentioned that a good used tube would be OK. Larry

I need to replace the grease tube that feeds a shot of grease to the throwout bearing on my '32 Dodge. The grease is pushed through the line by turning a knob on a grease cup, not by a grease gun. This tube is made like a speedo cable housing and wrapped in a braided copper metal sheath. I guess it's made like that to give protection from any slight chaffing that might occur in the busy area of the clutch mechanism, but still be flexible. My NAPA people remember having these tubes from the "old days" before the store became NAPA, so maybe there's some old stock out there. This tube has the same part number (391942) for Dodge 6's and 8's from 30-32, and Chrysler cars CO,CT and CQ as well as Desoto SC and SD, and Plymouth PB. The ends of the tube are female pipe threads. I don't know pipe thread number very well but I think it's 1/8 (uses a 7/16 wrench on the fitting) My pictures show the whole thing including the fittings beyond the tube. It might be that other car makers besides Chrysler used the same tubes. I've attached 3 pictures to help identify. A used grease tube in good shape would be fine. I've had suggestions of using a grease gun hose, and may end up doing that, but would rather not. Larry

Here are 3 pictures (I hope) showing the complete grease tube. As you can see, it has a grease supply in a manual turn device (I don't know what it's called) to supply a shot of grease. That's why it doesn't need a high pressure line. The tube is made like a speedometer cable housing with a copper metal sheath for protection. Maybe someons has one of these lying around? Last resort will be a grease gun hose, as suggested. Larry

That'a an interesting idea.....the original is armored, and I'm guessing it's because there's a lot of stuff moving around in very little space and a rubber hose could be chafed and leak or break. I don't need any high pressure hose, just a flexible strong tube to carry grease to the bearing guide. Someone suggested today that I use a speedometer cable housing and I'm working on that at the moment, the old cables from the early 30's had a fat cable about the size of what I need, and I have a spare . If I can get some armor wrap and solder the ends to the tube it might work. I think the part I need would be the same for 30-32 Dodge. Larry

I'm trying to put my DK 8 engine back together and need the grease tube that feeds grease to the throwout bearing sleeve. It's flex tube covered with metal mesh about 1 ft long w/female pipe threads on each end. Any suggestions? Larry