yirgaman

anyone responding to my ad, I can be reached by phone at (740)361-1838 or email yirgaman@netzero.net Larry

I want to thank all of you who considered using your car for my son's wedding, but this weekend we decided to use my own '32 Dodge. I have never driven it that far before, but I don't see why it shouldn't make the trip (125 miles one way). We will have an adventure! This will be our wedding present to the newlyweds. Larry

thanks to all who considered the possibility of using their car for this wedding, but we finally decided this weekend that we will use my own '32 Dodge. I have never driven it that far, but it should make the trip. Larry

I am looking for a 1932 Dodge DK 8 transmission, mine has a broken tooth on the countershaft. I hope to find a complete and working transmission ready to drop in. There are too many variations during manufacture to be sure a different part will work, so I'd like to get the whole transmission. The six cylinder transmissions don't interchange. Larry We will be at Hershey Green Field GBJ 37-39

mine has a broken tooth on the countershaft. I hope to find a complete working transmission ready to drop in. Six cylinder DL transmissions DO NOT interchange. Larry in Ohio We Will be at Hershey Green Field GBJ 38-39

This is a request for someone in the area of downtown Cleveland, Ohio with an antique car of the 30's 40's or 50's willing to be outside the church following my son's wedding, and drive him and his new bride around a few blocks of downtown and back to the church for pictures. He is willing to pay $300 for this service. It is St. Johns Cathedral, at 1007 Superior Ave on October 17 of this year; I hope someone in the area is willing do help them out. Cleveland is a bit too far for me to take my car or I would do it. please contact me if interested. (740) 382-0286 Landline....... or (740) 361-1838 cell Larry Yirga

I don't know where else to post this, but my son is getting married in downtown Cleveland on October 17th this year. He would like to find someone with an antique car, like 30's or 40's or 50's to be outside the church and to chauffer them around downtown for a few blocks after the ceremony. He is willing to pay $300 for this service, I live too far away for this to be practical for my vehicle. He is 46 and we have no contact with another AACA member close to Cleveland. Would someone please contact me if interested. (740) 382-0286 or (740) 361-1838 Larry Yirga

thanks for your suggestion, but as far as I can tell this is the factory alarm. I managed to poke around on the internet long enough to find an owners manual online, which explains the alarm and what triggers it and how to enable and disable the system. Now I have to wait until daylight before I try it again. There is an off switch - It also let me see that the hood, trunk, glove box and doors will each trigger the alarm, which will run for 4 minutes. It's kind of hard to concentrate with the horn blowing full blast and all the lights blinking. I was afraid someone was going to call the cops and report me as a nuisance. I just hope now that the fuel line is not plugged or some other goofy problem, although spinning the engine around was good so as to pump oil all through the engine before it finally starts. larry

I am trying to help my daughter-in-law who has a 1992 Porsche 968 that has been sitting in storage for a year (was her Dad's car). It came to our house on a wrecker because the battery is dead, I've charged the battery and the gas in the tank did not smell bad, but was very low according to the fuel gauge so I added 5 gallons of gas to the tank. The problem I have is the car alarm. every time I put the key into the ignition , the car alarm goes off and flashes the lights and blows the horn for probably 3 minutes or more while I'm turning over the engine trying to get it started. what is the proper sequence I should use to start this thing without the alarm going off or else how can I turn it off once it starts? BY the time the engine starts to cough, the battery is run down again. I've turned the key off and on, pushed in on the clutch, and any other thing I can think of, but nothing works to stop the alarm, except disconnecting the battery cable. When I re-connect it - the alarm picks right back up again. I don't know anything about Porsches (obvious). All I want to do is move it into the garage, about 30 feet uphill Larry

I finished torqueing the cylinder head and I quit at 54 ft-lbs. I did not want to take it any further. I started at 40 and went around again at 45, then 50 stopping at 54. It brought up about 2 more threads on the studs, a little more on few - less on others. Thanks again for the help! Larry

Wow...I just have plain nuts, no washers....I never thought about how many threads might be left, but again these are new studs, the builder was good, and we went to a lot of trouble to get the right length studs, so I imagine I have enough threads left since this is only a re-torque of the rebuilt engine, with the engine hot - so it looks more like 53 - 58 lbs for mine. It's probably only going to take a few clicks anyway. Larry Larry

OK, thanks to each and everyone who took the time to respond. I will follow the 60-65 lb recommendation, all my studs are new, but I don't want to risk tearing the engine down. I will be following the tightening sequence for an 8 cyl. 1930's Chrysler. Larry

Thanks Phil. I kept thinking it might be 85 ft-lbs, I don't want to overstress or break anything!. I'll use 65, it should be at least that much i'd think. Larry

I am finally getting back to my DK8 project and I need to know the cylinder head torque specs. The engine runs fine, but I need to re-tighten the head. I knew the number of foot pounds once upon a time.....but that was then, and this is now. Larry

Fenders and bumpers are different, gauges are different, doors are different. Offhand I'd say very few parts interchange. Larry

I have a friend in British Columbia that has acquired a '32 DL 6 Convertible coupe (rare) and he is looking for some parts and has no internet access. A left rear fender, front and rear bumpers, maybe some gauges, bottom sheet metal of grille, splash pans, etc. I'm helping him with some parts I had, but maybe you guys have some of the rest of the things. His name is Doug Blamey and his phone number is (604) 467-9734. He had an ad in a recent DB news asking for help in finding parts. Any of you guys ever ship parts to Canada? What's the least expensive method, or maybe I should say most effcient way to ship? Larry

the '32 DK came with the fancy aluminum door sills, I don't think the DL came with them, although they would fit since the bodies are the same. Larry

OK............thanks for taking time to look into it for me. This regulator was on the car when I bought it - I'll follow your suggestion.

I have a Delco Remy voltage regulator number 1118634 6volt neg ground. I'd like to know what it is supposed to fit. I may have to replace it. I've not found this number in any of my various Motors books. Larry

I'll be sure to clean those points when I get back home this weekend. Thanks.

The reason for wanting to change this is because my 32 DK8 came to me with a '54 Chevrolet generator already on it as well as a neg ground voltage regulator. I only drove the car a total of about 15 to 30 miles before the engine gave out and had to be totally rebuilt. Parts were so hard to find It took 18 months in the shop. In the meantime I had shoulder surgery,a quadruple bypass and our daughter-in-law died and we've been helping our son raise our little grandson during the week 2 1/2 hours from home. I don't remember if the generator was charging when I first drove the car or not - that was 5 years ago. I don't have a replacement stock generator, and since this one is supposed to put out 44 amps but was not charging the battery if I could make it work, I might finally get this car on the road. Yesterday I gave the voltage regulator a whack with a screwdriver handle ( I remember an old mechanic telling me to try this about 50 years ago when I had a charging problem with a car I had then.) It worked then and it worked yesterday because when I started it up, the ammeter showed a positive charge for the first time. My guess is that the contact(s) were stuck or dirty. So basically I've not reversed any wires and it may be working, but I don't want to burn up any components. So maybe the reply above saying that it should work as is could be right.

It is a regulator, Delco remy #1118634 and it says it negative ground. I gather then that you agree to switch all cables and wires after polarizing the generator? Larry

I want to reverse the polarity of my Dodge from positive ground to negative ground. Do I just switch the wires on the ammeter, coil, battery, generator and voltage regulator and the repolarize the generator? I am using a GM product generator and regulator tha came with the car. I don't have an original generator and want to use what I have for now.

Well the big fat oversized battery made a difference! The engine spins right over and starts now on 6 volts. Still not charging...I polarized the generator early on, but I've had so many things disconnected and back on again -I should have done it again. I'll do that next. Thanks for the help fellows. Larry

OK i've just replaced my 6 volt battery with one that has 1050 cold cranking amps. The battery is bigger than the case, so I'm now enlarging the battery case. I'll let you know how it turns out once I get it installed. I now have about 30 minutes or more of run time on the engine and it does seem to be more free than before. The generator is not charging....(adding to the problem) it's a '54 chevy generator along with a voltage regulator. That's the way the car was when I got it. Thought i would keep it (since I have no choice). So I'll also have to de-bug the charging system. Can there be a problem since I'm using positive ground - which would be backwards for the chevy equipment????