WillBilly53

Thanks for the promo Rob! Sooooo.... I have to carefully press the starter (vacuum?)switch on the carb with my hand, because I'm missing a retention spring on the throttle linkage making the gas pedal a little goofy. So anyways, I did give it some gas so to speak, but still nothing. Headlamps don't come on, but it is possible they are bad. Turn signal lights are no where to be found in my many boxes of parts, lol. Ammeter is not connected, so looks like I've got to make some more connections. It just seems like nothing is on at all.

I got everything hooked up so far: brand new wiring harness, rebuilt engine, recored radiator, new battery, spark plugs/wires correctly installed, etc. Everything is ready to go. so I held my breath and turned the key but there's nothing indicating that things are "on". The only thing that works is the dome light (and door buttons for it). No headlight action or instrument lights. Could it be the ignition switch?

Thank you! I primed the oil pump and got the distributor seated!

Soooooo... I'd like to turn the engine by hand before I take the plunge and start her up for the first time. I'm still trying to seat the distributor properly and set the timing. Both the engine and trans were rebuilt and its never been started. I assumed it rotates clockwise but when I try it doesn't budge at all. I want to make sure there's not something I'm missing. I'm using a 10" socket wrench with a 1" fitting. Any ideas?

dang how did i miss that? oi, maybe it was the 8 hours I spent in the garage yesterday and my eyes going crossed eyed... thanks Mike and Willie. I realized that I didn't have an O-ring. I couldn't find one at any of the box stores, so maybe that's the reason I couldn't get it seated yesterday. The universe was trying to tell me, "hey man, aren't you forgetting something?" I'll try again once I the O-ring I ordered arrives at my front door. in other news I finally finished the entire wiring harness! (sans the distributor/coil)

thanks Aaron. yeah, it seems I can feel the teeth engage a bit, but the "flat head screwdriver end" in the distributor's shaft isn't sitting in the "flat head screw" slot of the pump shaft. Sorry about my terminology! i've been fiddling a while, but it still won't seat properly. guess i'll just get a hammer - hah! just kidding. i'll keep working on it...

Thank you so much for your help Willie. I'm learning as I go. I don't know crap about cars but I'm having fun. I've had this baby for 10 years and its never been started, but I'm getting so close to everything put back together. my dad bought me the pertronix ignitor and the flame thrower coil for my birthday but I still have the original coil so I'll just use the original as you suggested. So I've got a couple more questions: what is the appropriate way to seat the distributor? Do I just keep trying to re-seat it and finagle it? How do I tell which "plug" on the distributor cap is #1?

Can someone take a look at the photo and tell me if the distributor looks seated properly/all the way. Is there supposed to be a gasket or something between it and the block? Also am I correct in not having to need a ballast resistor with a pertronix electronic system?

Excellent!. Much obliged, Willie!

How exactly do I do this? I ordered a set of spark plug wires from Bob's but they were not crimped on the distributor ends (I assume theres a reason) Anyways, I am unclear of how to crimp them correctly. The connectors seem like they just squeeze on with you thumb and forefinger, then slip the boot down. Or do I need to strip the sheathing back to expose the wire?

So I was about to install my old (but with new bushings) shock link on the passenger side and ran into the exact problem rapidride did. Apparently my original mounting bolts were 180 degrees opposite each other (see photo) Just thought I'd bring it to everyone's attention.

Hey Willie, the Steele Rubber part # is 70-0274-33. I had to shave it down on my bandsaw quite a bit though. I put the bolt through the bushing to guide it and give some "extension" between my thumbs and the blade.

no worries Mike. For now I ordered some replacement bushings the other day for my original shock links from Steele Rubber in NC. I drilled out the old ones and used carriage bolts, washers and locking washers.

I'd really appreciate it Mike if you happen to find out who sells them. I called Bob's, Cars, Inc., Kanter and Classic Car Parts and they all said theirs are 7" center to center. I thought I was going crazy. I even remeasured just to be sure. I'm the one selling the 7" set on eBay (and explained that they may not fight ALL 53 Supers) apologies to rapidride2 if I hijacked your thread, but it seems we are having similar problems.

i've run into this similar problem on my '53 Super. The reproductions I ordered from Bob's are 7" center to center. I measured the originals and they are 7.5" center to center. I pulled the shock absorber arm up as far as it will go and it just won't reach the link (like the original posters pic) Does anyone know where I can get 7.5" ones?

Thanks guys!

Is there a way to plug or disengage the heater on a 1953 Super. There's two hoses coming from the engine and up to the heater core/fan underneath the front bench seat on the passenger side. I don't plan on using it and I'd like to just remove it all and I guess plug the hoses? Do i just make it a continuous route out of one hose bypassing the entire hearing unit? Any ideas?

Excellent, thank you Willie. I'm so close to starting her up, I can't stand it!

hmmmmm. well i do plan on keeping it forever. it's my first and only restoration and I've been working on it for 9 years. The only damper about the Renu is I assume I have to ship the tank to a dealer? Seems like I'll be spending more in shipping and the treatment than the gas tank itself and like others I don't have a lot of money. But maybe I'll save money because the gas tank is brand new and not a flaky shell of rust. Has anybody ever ordered the new gas tanks available from Bob's?

I'm about to purchase a brand new gas tank for my '53 Super from Bob's. Should I seal it with gas tank sealer as added protection?

Thanks Scott! Looks like I'll go with Kanter. I'm not going all original, but thanks you for the tip BuickJim!

Has anybody ordered from classicbuicks.com for molded carpet? Or should I go with Kanter? Any pros/cons with either dealer?

Sweet! thank you!

Anybody know what the official name of this part is and/or where to find it? (circled in red)

right on. thanks old tank!