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WillBilly53

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Everything posted by WillBilly53

  1. thanks ya'll. that all makes sense. it was definitely confusing me with what I was seeing. maybe the previous owner's attempt at getting this thing on the road? Who knows, but ya'll clarified the situation, thank you. (and thanks Rick for the emails with the diagramatic photos)
  2. Okay, I'm a bit confused with the parts book and what I'm seeing underneath the car. I'm posting some photos. The close up of the seal is what I pulled off the u joint. When I examine the end of the shaft (the other photo) I see what I think is the sleeve but also what looks to be an outer sleeve? Or is that the bushing? Basically where the heck do I install the new seal? Is it supposed to be pressed on to the end of the propeller shaft or do I put on the u joint? Like I said when everything pulled apart, the seal that was there was on the u joint and it basically just slid off.
  3. One last question which way does the seal go? The one I pulled off the u joint was in great condition and had the tapered end facing the rear end. This seems backwards to me and just wanted to check before I put it all back together.
  4. Bingo! Thanks fellas. It was indeed too low and binding.
  5. thanks for the tips everyone. the panbar was the first thing I released, so we're good there. the wheels are off the ground, with the floor jack underneath the differential housing. It sounds like I might need to jack it up a little further though. gonna chew on some gum and reread these comments before I go back out there.
  6. Is there a trick to separating the torque tube from the torque ball? I'm trying to redo the seal. I've done like the manual says in order to pull the rear axle assembly: disconnected the rear springs, shock links at the absorber arms, parking brake cable, etc. I've remove the bolts at the torque tube, but it still won't roll out. Any ideas? edit: and yes, the back end of the car itself is securely on jacks.
  7. thanks guys. I know it might have seemed like an obvious question, but the only reason I posted was because I read somewhere else on here some problems with C**s, Inc. and their seals. I know Bob's is a world better than C**s, but I just wanted confirmation before I ordered from them. The seals should be here by the end of the week. heck yeah!
  8. I got some outer wheel seals from Autozone the other day. The inner and out diameter jives, but they are about twice as thick in width when compared to the originals. I looked up the specs on the ones that rock auto sells and they are the same as the autozone ones. I assume this is a problem as they would stick out of the axle house, but wanted to double check with you guys in case there's something I don't know. Will I be able to correctly drive the seals or do I need to return them and order from someone else? Edit: they will not work. They stick out oast the axle housing to where the backing plate cannot be installed. Can anybody confirm a place that has the correct ones?
  9. thanks rick. apparently i can't see well. i was looking at Bob's and found the seal for 1953, but thought it said series 40 only. it is indeed for big series as well. Thanks!
  10. Looks like I might hold off on the torque tube stuff until I finish the rear end and get her to roll again!
  11. Thank you First Born! I ran across the rear axle removal instructions in the '52 manual last night and it basically states what you are saying. And thank you AVGwarhawk for sticking with me! on another note, does anyone know where to get the rear inner wheel/axle seals? I found the outer wheel seals but am having trouble locating the inner seals.
  12. thank you warhawk! i'm happy to report on the differential issue. It seems some pressure was released? when I lowered the rear axle housing after removing the shocks and springs. Suddenly I spun one of the axles and it engaged the diff carrier and I was able to rotate it to get to and remove the locking screw, pin, spacer block and gears to remove the axles. Now I can replace the seals and repack the bearings!
  13. I've got a bit of mess now. My torque ball kit arrived today, so I had the bright idea of going back to working on that, thinking that by disconnecting the drive shaft would free up the differential case allowing me to do remove the axles and thus replacing the wheel seals. And then install the torque ball kit and THEN assess the transmission issue. sigh- so there's not much information in either manual (that I could find) on the procedure for replacing the tongue ball seal and retainer. I've got my parts book that shows the parts, but I've yet to find a "first remove such and such. Step 2. Remove doohickey, etc." I've read a ton of posts on here, but couldn't find exactly what I need to do. I've removed the bolts and bracket at the transmission end and I've been trying to figure how to get the rear end to move enough to do the replacement. I've uninstalled the shock links and springs with jacks stands on the frame and rear axle. Doesnt seem to me this will allow the rear axle to move back. I'm going to take a quick break and go chew on gum for second.
  14. It was indeed pushed into its present location. I can turn the rear axles, but the carrier and drive shaft do not.
  15. Right on, John. I'll check my parts car, but if those don't work out, I'll get back with you. I'd rather deal with you than CARS, Inc. (but thanks for the recommendation, avgwarhawk.)
  16. bummer. I've tried all positions other than park and the carriage won't budge at all. sigh...
  17. I think I see what you mean, I think the linkage won't clear the chassis, and idler lever seems to only mount on that side. I'm at work now, but I will double check that and the gear box/steering column jacket deal tomorrow. P.S. with the linkage disconnected, I should be able to find Neutral with just the lever on the trans, though, right? In order to complete my rear axle work? Or is that a bad idea to guess?
  18. great thought, but yeah i've go the rear axle fully supported on 2 jack stands.
  19. well I haven't started the torque ball repair yet. I'm waiting on the kit to arrive. I started out redoing the rear brakes and opened up this can of worms (albeit, a can of worms that obviously needed to be opened). So while awaiting to figure out my rear drum situation, I wanted to repack the rear wheel bearings, new seals, etc. on the differential and decided to redo the torque ball stuff as well. Lol! my girlfriend says I take on too much at once... anyways, what's in your '54 manual seems to jive with what's in my '53. I guess what I'm confused on is that the lever on the trans is at the PARK position and the spring travel is correct. When I put the shift control on the steering column at the PARK position, I get what I posted about before (in the photos) The shift rod is way too forward to line up with the idler lever on the chassis. The only way to get them to jive is if the lever on the trans is what would roughly be Low Drive. Am I explaining that correctly? All the parts are correct. I've matched them with the spares I pulled from my parts car. The lever on trans is supposed to move on the lower axis as opposed to the higher axis, correct? EDIT: Thank you for your help, hawk!
  20. I would think it should click or "engage" also. if so then I guess something's definitely up with the trans, which sucks because I had it rebuilt. The linkage was never properly hooked up. My dad had some guys do a body swap years ago, so anything's possible I guess. However, the levers and rods all seem to be installed the way they should (aside from the clevis/shift rod not matching up with the shift idler lever). Maybe I need to adjust the stop plate on the steering column? Still strange that I can't just manually find Neutral with the lever on the dynaflow to do what I'm originally trying to do in the post! scratching my head...
  21. Hey Hawk, right now the shift lever on the dynaflow is at "park". I've moved the lever to various positions to no avail. Related question: Should it be a smooth motion moving the lever at the dynaflow, or should there be "clicks" for each position (P-N-D-L-R) Right now it's a smooth motion when moving the lever at the dynaflow by hand.
  22. 12.125" on one and right at 12.063" on the other with ridges in both. Junkyard, indeed it looks like. And/or visiting my parts car. Thanks for the info!
  23. Dang it. It seems my dynaflow's control linkage is all off. I've read though section 4-3 in the manual and know what to do. However, with the shift lever on the dynaflow in "park" position as indicated in the illustration, the shift rod and clevis go way past where it is to match up with the shift idler lever on the chassis. I've adjusted the clevis on the shift rod as short as it will go. And yes, the control mechanism in the steering column is in "park" as well. I've been fooling with it for a couple hours now. Truly baffled.
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