rocketraider

How long since this car has been driven regularly? You may have a fouled tank or carb, or a weak fuel pump. Old gas will do this too. I'm passing up a nice 76 Caddy right now because of those problems, though for $1500, I shouldn't grumble too much, eh? You might come out ahead to have the car rollbacked home, where you can tinker at your leisure. But yes- if the car's been sitting any time at all I'll say at the least it needs a tuneup and carb rebuilt. Check the air and fuel filters too, as well as the brakes. Non-use does them worse than anything.

Well- is it a Delta 88, or is it a Ninety Eight? They're very different cars from the cowl back.

Well, let's see- the 1970 service manuals list them by name and formula and I can list those here in a separate post if you want them. The Color & Fabric Album will have color chips so you can actually see the color, but that will be an expensive piece for a 70. Try digging thru a swap meet or literature vendor and see if you can get a 1970 GM or Oldsmobile Ditzler, PPG, Rinshed-Mason etc color chip sheet. They usually have all of them on it unless there was a late-year color introduction.

Hear! Hear! Very well put! I think you've hit on something about why people consider vintage cars unreliable. If they aren't driven regularly, things deteriorate. They were used daily in their time and got people where they wanted to go with little if any aggravation.

Then don't. Let me try to reduce this into terms you can understand, since you are obviously missing the point. A Revolutionary or WBTS battlefield that is encroached upon or actually bought up and developed as a subdivision, mall, amusement park, whatever, to satisfy modern tastes, mores and financial desires- is history that has been altered and can never be put back like it was. A good original or restored old car that gets chopped up and turned into a street rod with all modern automotive conveniences, to satisfy modern tastes, mores and financial desires- is history that has been altered and can never be put back like it was. Either way, something of historical significance has been altered from its original state by someone who viewed it solely from a business standpoint without respect to history. There is the comparison. No moral high ground. Simple facts. The same argument applies to the misguided people who want to rewrite history to make modern man more comfortable with its not-so-pleasant aspects or to modify others' viewpoints to conform with their own. I believe that happened in 1917 Russia, 1933 Germany and 1948 mainland China. Would this mountain bus project you wish to start be as significant historically if you were to build the body on a modern GM or Ford school bus chassis? If so, call Thomas or Bluebird bus manufacturers, they'll be happy to accommodate you. If not, build it right and use a vintage, unmolested chassis. I often think that old car owners who upgrade to every modern convenience in their old iron are missing the entire point of having an old car, which is to drive something that was made before the modern conveniences, learn to operate and repair it, live with its quirks, and preserve it. If you only want to travel in a modern car, then go to a new car dealer and buy one. And by the way- with a lineage that includes ancestors who died at the Elmira and Point Lookout POW camps and the battles of Gettysburg, New Market and Manassas, as well as several who were present at the Surrender, I think I have a very good grasp of what is and is not sacred ground.

I <span style="font-weight: bold">think</span> you're asking 68-69... Yes- 1968-1969 Rally Pack gauges and tachometer are identical.

Kanter has a pretty good reputation and has always sent me the correct stuff. Their downside is that sometimes they think their stuff is 24k goldplate, especially on parts that can be got elsewhere for 1/3 the cost. Their advantage is that by ordering their kits, you don't have to chase parts all over town and wait days for the local parts house to get it, if they can get it at all. It all comes at one time in one box, delivered to your door.

Are you talking about a rubber protector mat, or the full floor front & rear carpeting? The floor pans are very different between 1961-64 and 1965-70 GM cars, and sometimes even between different Divisions. I think it's safe to say that all the 1968 B-body cars (Impala, Bonneville, 88 and LeSabre) used the same floor carpeting, and repro is available. Check with a full-size Chevy vendor.

Brassbus- is it really? You've got two aspects of history that are being chopped up, desecrated, ruined, forgotten and <span style="font-weight: bold">REWRITTEN</span> to comply with what is currently fashionable. Hence, lost to future generations. I say the comparison is valid , otherwise I wouldn't have made it.

And like we keep telling you- Dave, they don't care! All the old car is to them is a piece to be exploited to their own satisfaction and/or profit. History and preservation are of no concern to them. In addition to my old car disease, I'm also a member of the Civil War Preservation Trust. That group expends much money and time trying to keep short-sighted developers from turning the battlefields into subdivisions. Right now, we're fighting hard to keep an ATV racetrack away from the literal edge of the Manassas Battlefield. The developer has skirted local zoning by listing his planned use as agricultural, but there's sure a lot of flyers advertising his new racetrack floating around. His reply to CWPT? "It's my land and I will do what I damn well please with it". Where have we heard that before?

It's a Noo Yawk car. For the most part they didn't need airconditioning there. My dad's cousins lived in Norwich NY, where it was not unusual to see people wearing sweaters in July. Summer of 67, they bought a new 1967 Caprice, Tropic Turquoise w/ black vinyl roof and no a/c. Shortly after they bought it, they drove it here for family reunion in the NC Sandhills, where it was close to 100 degrees . They were here a week, and about the second day, the new Caprice went to Sears for an airconditioner.

I'm guessing there couldn't be more than 5 gallons in it unless the old gentleman had an absolute brain fart and tried to fill it up. Actually probably closer to 1 or 2 gallons. I'd fill the tank with fresh premium to dilute it and burn it out. You'll see some smoke, and maybe a little oil residue on the plugs, but I don't think this will hurt the engine. Think of it this way- fuel stabilizers are little more than a highly refined light oil and other than an occasional bumper stain, they don't hurt a thing. Your other alternative is to drop and drain the fuel tank.

Yes- F85 is generic Olds-speak for 1961-77 A-body car. Anytime you see a reference to F85 in factory publications, Cutlass and all variations come under it.

Somebody's tried to hijack your e-mail. Even though you haven't sent anything yourself, if someone sends you an infected e-mail, these viruses will get into your e-mail address book and forward themselves to everyone in it. That's how these lowlife virus writers spread their nasty little product. If you do not have a strong anti-virus program installed, you need to do it like NOW. And when it detects a virus, don't fool with trying to repair the infected file. <span style="font-weight: bold">Delete it!</span> and hope it hasn't corrupted your system beyond repair. By the way- don't send me anything private! I just went thru a virus attack that originated on another forum, and I have no desire to repeat it.

E-mail me privately with a street mailing address and I'll xerox the 1977 emission vacuum diagrams for you. Will help if you narrow down which engine/transmission car has.

Are we talking names that just absolutely don't fit the car it was given to, or these damn computer-generated inoffensive soothing pabulum names the Asians are so fond of hanging on their cars? I can think of one that was very aptly named- the Daihatsu Charade, because it is truly a joke of a car. I've got it- Yugo! because more likely than not, you didn't.

The 1974 edition parts book says: 1970-72 F85 synchromesh trans w/ console, p/n 405534 lever, floor shift (Hurst- stamped "H") (less knob) 1970-72 F85 S.T. except console or 1971 4400 HD trans, p/n 406713 lever, floor shift (Hurst-stamped "H") (less knob) So it appears there is some difference. Differences also show up between console and non-console in 1964-69 and 1973 applications, and between F85/Cutlass and 442 1965-69, difference there being 442 shifters had "442" stamped into them.

As an aside to this thread, lot of us 57-70 GM big car owners can't find a 14" radial tire big enough for our cars. Just to let you know- Hercules Tire and Cooper still make a 225/75R <span style="font-weight: bold">14</span> tire at about half the cost of Cokers. The major brand tire guys will try to tell you a 215 is big enough, but I don't buy it, especially on an airconditioned car. These are heavy metal cars. Plus a 215 is nearly 2" shorter than the 8.00/8.50-14 tires these cars came with, and that will throw speedometer calibration out the window. Bought a set of 5 Cooper Trendsetters for the 64 Starfire yesterday. American made, 3/4" whitewall, drives nicely and looks 60s-ish!

What's really weird is the number of states that do not issue or require titles on older cars any more. A buddy just bought a 66 Bonneville Brougham out of Georgia. The guy in Georgia got the car in Ohio nearly ten years ago, and Georgia never issued a title. Pre-1986 cars can have a title issued only if owner requests it, and Georgia does not issue titles on pre-1962 cars at all. We thought the story was BS until we checked the Georgia DMV website. How do they verify ownership down there? Model A Hal, you listening? Or is this another one of King Roy's smoke-filled room schemes ?

You can count on around $200 minimum for a less popular rechrome bumper. You might find an NOS one for $50-100 depending on who has it. These bumpers are not high demand items so you can often find them cheap. You can try the southwestern chrome guys but they get outrageous sometimes.

E-mail me privately and I'll give you a contact who would know. Don't like giving out other folks' e-mail addresses in a public forum.

There's differences in the starter and junction block area but if you e-mail me a mailing address, I'll make you a color laser copy of the 66 Olds A-body wiring diagrams. The 6-cylinder diagram <span style="font-style: italic">should</span> be the same as Chevy since Olds used Chevy sixes those years. Yes, Olds had <span style="font-weight: bold">COLOR</span> wiring diagrams in the shop manuals! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/icons/cool.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/icons/grin.gif" alt="" /> To my knowledge they're the only GM Division to do so.

GM offered the dual master cylinder retrofit, but since 64-67 A-body cars are all basically the same mechanically, I'd look into a 1967 master cylinder and order a new brake line kit and distribution block from www.inlinetube.com or www.mpbrakes.com . This will be your easiest option I think.

The only surefire way I know of is to pull the head and measure the valve face. I've seen Ga heads on Ninety Eights and I doubt any of those were packing a W30! though I know of at least two Stage 1 Electras <img src="/ubbthreads/images/icons/confused.gif" alt="" /> so I suppose it was possible to get what you wanted. That said- with the right pistons, G or Ga make a decent performance head. Keep that in mind- compression ratio on an Olds is changed with the piston, not the head. You need at least 10:1 compression to take advantage of a big cam like the 390 hp job you want.

The factory says no W31 Rallye 350s built. The Rallye 350 Club says 12. Offering the W 350 in the Rallye seems counterproductive as it was designed as an insurance fighter. No big-block, no specific body style, nothing to give away its intent as a junior supercar. An Oldsmobile RoadRunner as it were. Of course, its original incarnation was supposed to be the 1970 Hurst/Olds and it is designated as RPO W45, same as 1968-69 Hurst.