tomchaney

That is really one of the funniest listings I've ever read. The guy has talent as a writer. Maybe he can use it to earn enough money to buy a nice car!

Unrestored. Go here 1912 Hupp for more information. Thanks! Tom Chaney tomchaney@att.net

Unrestored. Go here 1912 Hupmobile for pictures and more information. Tom Chaney tomchaney@att.net

For my 1924 Chevrolet Superior touring car: all four fenders, 5 demountable rims, hood and top irons. I already have these parts all bent up and rusty. I'm looking for good solid replacements. Thanks! Tom Chaney 818-347-7478 tomchaney@att.net <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

For a 1924 Chevrolet Superior Touring car I need all four fenders, 5 good demountable rims, top irons and a good hood. I've already got these parts all bent up and rusty. Am looking for good solid replacements. Thanks! Tom Chaney 818-327-7478 tomchaney@att.net (I'm in the Los Angeles area) <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

I also think this price may be a bit steep, but a good picture would really help. Drop by Vintage Chevrolet Club of America Chat Forum and you'll find a lot of great guys who can give you quality advice. (And who may even want to buy your car!) Good Luck! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

Need a pair of brake drums for my '33 LaSalle. tomchaney@att.net

Funny how so many design complaints revolve around the heater core! The story about the Corvair with two cement blocks reminds me of my 1965 Corvette Stingray. Late one evening while on a very lonely freeway, I decided to see how fast it would go. Apparently, the pointy front end combined with the gentle curvature of the top of the hood mimic the lift of an airplane wing. At 109 MPH, the front end began to lift and steering got very squirrely. I could have made the car go faster, but I wouldn't be able to steer it! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

I have a very derilect 1933 LaSalle 4-door that needs a pair of front brake drums. Contact me at tomchaney@att.net

I removed a leaking heater core from a 1965 Corvette I once owned. When I took it to the shop to be soldered, they were astounded that I was able to get it out without cutting a brace under the dash. I don't remember what I did, but I guess I didn't know I wasn't supposed to be able to do it! My parents 1957 Mercury required the spark plugs to be removed through the wheel well after removing the front wheels. I was also amused at my 1959 MG coupe that had two 6-volt batteries (wired to produce 12 volts) located in wells behind the seats. To service or remove you had to push the seats all the way forwardand remove a cover from the floor.

I also like the Beverly Hillbillies' Oldsmobile! Don't forget Kookie's Model T roadster, The Leslie Special from The Great Race and the reproduction Stutz Bearcats from the short-lived TV series. Anyone remember Mike Anthony's Packard from "The Millionaire", Car 54, Where Are You? or Lois Lane's snazzy Nash convertible? <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

What is the correct carburetor for a 1912 Hupmobile Model "32" (aka Model H)? Thanks! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

Chris & Steve: I've got to agree with your choices of a Limited or Autocrat! What a thrill it would be to pilot either one. In the meantime, a mid-50's convertible would be fun too! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

I agree. This appears to be a mid-20's Buick touring car.

Thank you for your prompt and thoughtful reply. I do need to find a good Toyota mechanic in this area. When I lived in San Diego, I had an ACE who was not only skilled and reputable, he kept his shop as clean as an operating room! Though I live in Los Angeles now, I'm really tempted to travel south and let him have a crack at this! I've printed out your response. By the way, your Alfa story reminds me of a similar (and certainly apocryphal) story told regarding Henry Ford. As the tale goes, one day the production line mysteriously shut down. An expert was summoned who examined everything thoroughly. After awhile, he told Henry that he could fix the problem for $10,000.01 and asked for a screwdriver. Given the go ahead, he proceeded to turn a single screw a quarter of a turn. The assembly line immediately burst to life. Ford demanded an itemized bill for the seemingly outrageous charge. A few days later he got it. Item #1: Turning the screw... .01. Item #2: Knowing which screw to turn... $10,000.00. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> PS: Thank you to all the Buick enthusiasts who have patiently allowed me to hijack this forum temporarily.

This may or may not be related to gasoline...and it certainly isn't related to Buicks, but NTX you seem to have a lot of knowledge in this area so let me float a question. Several months ago, my '89 Toyota failed its Calif. smog test. A trip to the dealer to replace the timing belt (which was due) and adjust the fuel system & timing resulted in the car now passing smog, but it immediately manifested a new problem. It now has a "dead spot" during the first inch of gas pedal travel which causes the engine to "leap" when accelerating from a coast (at any speed). It accelerates OK from a dead stop. It accelerates OK if I have not taken my foot completely off the pedal. If I am crawling slowly in traffic, it will often "oscillate" until I get over about 20 MPH. Dealer claimed I needed a new distributor, but I don't think that is it. It's the same distributor that was on it the day before the problem popped up. My mechanic can't find it. It did generate a code indicating EGR valve replacement. That was done. Now there are no computer codes generated. It is most pronounced after the car warms up. Any ideas? <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

Howard is probably right. I bought a '65 Corvette in 1970 for $1500 and filled it with gas for $5. Figure what a 5 year old Corvette convertible with 30K miles would cost today and there's your multiplier. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" />

Does anyone have a source for the correct textured material used in the STD tudor. Last time I checked LeBarron Bonney, theirs was smooth with just the design of the texture printed on. I've always thought this textured material was one of the highlights of the interior.

I know nothing about the Hawthorne paint, but I do tend to agree that it's best to purchase paint from a local supplier. That way, you can always get what you need quickly (without waiting for something to arrive in the mail) and you have someone to call with questions if they arise. I've been painting my '24 Chevy with PPG Concept DCC acrylic urethane and the stuff is like magic. It requires a catalyst, but that's not really much of a bother. It goes on easily, is practically impossible to run if you're paying attention and dries to a smooth porcelain-like high gloss finish. It ain't cheap at $145 per gallon, plus $63 for catalyst and $30 for a gallon of reducer (OUCH!) but it goes far and looks fantastic. So far, I've painted my entire chassis, transmission and a bunch of little stuff and still have about a quart left. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

That's a great car! I love the "land yachts." My parents had a '57 Mercury Montclair, turquoise and white. When I catch up on my current projects, I'd love to track one down! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

I'm restoring a 1924 Chevrolet touring car and am looking for someone in the Los Angeles area with skill and experience who would be willing to undertake the re-wooding of the body. I have most of the old wood for patterns. I just don't have the room nor the tools to do it. Any takers? tomchaney@att.net <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

I'm restoring a 1924 Chevrolet touring car and am looking for someone in the Los Angeles area with skill and experience who would be willing to undertake the re-wooding of the body. I have most of the old wood for patterns. I just don't have the room nor the tools to do it. Any takers? tomchaney@att.net

I've owned my 1924 Chevrolet since about 1974. My father bought it around 1954 but never got around to restoring it and gave it to me. I also own a 1937 Ford that was purchased new by friends of my parents. When the original owners could no longer drive it, they gave it to my parents and I, in turn, inherited it from them. I also have a 1929 Farmall tractor my grandfather bought in 1933. I may not have personally owned these vehicles very long, but you can see that my family hates to let go of a good one once we get our hands on it! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

Need good left front and right rear fenders for 1924 Chev. Touring. Also need a hood and top irons. Thanks! Tom Chaney Woodland Hills, CA tomchaney@att.net

For Sale: 1912 Hupmobile model H 32 hp touring. Unrestored but mostly complete and very solid. Engine turns freely and should run. Wrong wheels. Very little rust. Barn fresh and ready to restore. $8000. Located in Woodland Hills, CA (near Los Angeles). Tom Chaney 818-347-7478. tomchaney@att.net