Peter J.Heizmann

Peter G...thank you. Could not remember the exact number.

TsandAs...if I recall from a similar query years ago, it is after, I believe 10 posts. Maybe it has changed. Regards, Peter J.

Anonymous, you bring up a thought I had originally when all this pending sale hit the news... If I were the boss, had plenty of financial reserves, saw my employees making a fool of me and other key management via inflatable charicatures, walking around with insulting signs on the picket lines, and, all on national TV...guess what I would do in a New York minute. Adios to the company and still make more money. With this, I ask Waffle Works where are you coming from asking people to sign a petition to halt the sale. One, it is up to the owner. This is America. Two, the employees possibly pushed the bubble and caused their own heartburn. Peter J.

At our foundries, we had a customer: "Nova Clutch, Brooklyn, NY" some years ago. Call information, or, look them up on the net. We used to pour and machine replacement clutch plates for the Army jeeps. When the Army, etc., went to the Humvees, the transmissions were automatic and we lost the work. Give them a shot. I know they specialized in many oddball, rare plates. If anything, they may steer you in a satisfactory direction. Regards, Peter J.

Hi, folks. My experience in the foundry business for too many years than I care to recall mandates my vote on the subject: "Just let them oxidize naturally". Occasionally, one might simply take off rings/wedding bands, and, rub the part whenever you have a free minute. Like a few folks above mentioned, I concur, it won't take long at all to weather (oxidize). The fastest method I can suggest is don't affix them to the car. Let the pieces out in the weather for awhile (rain, sun, etc.) Regards, Peter J.

beachyboyy...you should have a good chemical bonding with anonymous when you meet up. Ironic that you both "type" and "promo" the same. Any contribution to "Old Cars" (?) Regards, Peter J.

Ironic about the Duryea in the sense tomorrow is the annual Duryea Days Show sponsored by the Pottstown (PA) Region, in conjunction with the Boyertown (PA) Museum of Historical Vehicles. Charles Duryea had his early days of manufacturing in Reading, PA. Like most carriage-to-motorized folks of the day, he tried and failed. Finanial backing, from memory, was also a major factor. By any means, I am not an authoritative source of information compared to many on the forum, or, hobby for that matter. Duryea used to test drive his earliest examples up the Dave Moon Coined serpentine hill in Reading, PA. (Dave resided at the base of this route years ago.) It has been named "Duryea Drive" as long as I have graced this earth. Two S.C.C.A. (sports car) Hill Climbs are held on this route every Summer. For more concise and accurate info, contact: www.boyertownmuseum.org They have at least one Duryea in their collection. The Berks County Historical Society also has a Duryea. Hate to edit a post twice, however, I forgot to mention that the AACA Library and Research Center should be the first choice for technical information. Hope this helps somehow. Regards, Peter J.

In 2004 there will be an AGNM in Buffalo I am told. Maybe someone with more knowledge of the subject will post.

Hi, Mike. That is correct. Paragraph 1 of the Judging Manual indicates "Entrants are limited to those vehicles that have acquired Senior Award Winner status in any year prior to the year of the AGNM. Let's keep in touch on Buffalo. If I am still kicking, I plan on attending. See you at Cliff's. Peter J.

Hi, Ken. Don't feel bad. I lost a response last night. Basically what I was saying in comparing planing wood with a "low" spot was just to give an idea. If by your naked eye, you think, or, suspect a round part has a "low" spot, or, out of round, you will turn (machine) the suspect part until you literally make it too thin, or, have the potential for part failure (shattering, cracking, and, so on.) Steel "STAMPED" parts have superior strength. Foundry "SAND CAST" Steel cannot compete with "SAND CAST IRON" concerning thickness. Cast Iron (Grey) has a fluidity rate far superiour to Steel Cast parts in order to make a thinner part. In the business, I always use the following example: MAPLE SYRUP: Grey (cast iron) = Syrup heated to 100 degrees will almost like water. Steel (cast) = Syrup at 40 degrees will flow slow and will require larger cavities to fill the mold. Stamped or forged steel can compete with cast iron for thinner walls. Now, I was not saying all 4 drums must be machined/turned to equal diameters. I was only concerned about saving original parts can only go on for so long. You keep turning a drum, rotor, etc., for only so long until you will make it a dangerous part. If a round piece is worn, or, warped, you will be turning down good material until you eliminate the "low or worn spot". The thinner the better with cast iron is not a good thing in this case... Regards, Peter J.

The only difference between a National (i.e. Hershey) and a Grand National: At a Grand National: 1-Chief Judge: Senior Master Judge Judging Team: All Master Judges. 2-Point Spread for each level of award is 10 points within the top scoring vehicle at Nationals. At a Grand National, the point spread is reduced to 5 points. Regards, Peter J.

Unregistered.<P>Try <A HREF="http://www.amalgamated1928brakeshoescorp.com." TARGET=_blank>www.amalgamated1928brakeshoescorp.com.</A> <P>If no success, try <A HREF="http://www.funeraldirectors.com." TARGET=_blank>www.funeraldirectors.com.</A> <P>The latter will probably be of more use based on the game plan.<P>Regards, Peter J.

Wow! The true characters of "some" folks are coming out. <P>I have an idea...let's talk about Old Cars.<P>Just a thought...<P>Regards, Peter J.

Hi, Ken. Were all family here. There is no dumb question.<P>Without going into a littany, here's my best shot.<P>--Pretend each of your drums is a 1/2 piece of "pine" wood you just bought at a lumber yard.<P>--You do not like the smoothness. Taking a hand-held wood plane, you successfully smooth 3 of the pieces, however, piece #4 you banged with a hammer, causing a dent.<P>Your goal is to have all pieces equally smooth, AND, retain the same thickness. <P>Well, you plane, plane, plane #4 for 10 strocks until you get the hammer dent out.<P>Unfortunately, #4's thickness is now down to 3/8" thickness. That means you must take #1-#3, and, plane them down to 3/8" so all are equal.<P>--As for metals, we could go on forever. Uneven wear caused your #4 to look good with the eye, however, if there is a "scored", "uneven" area, a machinist would "turn" (plane) until the uneven area is smooth. Unfortunately, he would be reducing the thickness of the part to the point it would be too thin "overall". It would fail in functional atmosphere.<P>--Denial: After awhile, there are parts that lend themselves "shot". You cannot keep repairing, planing, milling forever. After awhile there is no more material to take away. In time, you will be milling "air" on the low spots, material on the thicker spots.<P>--Material of your drum: Hopefully, someone on the forum with more experience in the older cars will chime in.<P>Regards, Peter J.

Al...Sorry. I did not comment on the wear causing the hard spots.<P>My opinion is "Possible". Depending on where carbides were when the casting chilled, the wearing of the casting, it is within the realm of possibility that you could hit a hard spot/carbitic area.<P>You are correct concerning the .060. That equates to .030 "A SIDE" on a round part. On a flat casting, .030 is the norm up to 4" in length, .045 progressively to 6" in length, and so on. If you have a 1 foot long casting, the A.S.T.M. recognized machining flatness tolerance is over .120.<P>Regards, Peter J.

Ron, that's interesting. As I mentioned, we have no need for chrome for industrial castings.<P>One thing for certain, is millage. Chrome is roughly 2-mils. Powder coating is an average of 3-3.5 mils. On wire spokes, picture powder coating as having beefed up the diameter of the spokes upon first sighting. I shutter to think about the linkage sleeves for spoke adjustment if it was powder coated. (How each spoke could be tightened in Powder without cracking/scoring versus the resiliency of chrome is beyond my comprehension.)<P>Regards, Peter J.

Pete, you offer a lot of experience here, not to mention a push for all of us to study the hobby related details before posting (speaking). This is fine with me.<P>In my opinion, all the good comments get trashed by your crude, sexual fantasies.<P>There are "true" ladies and gentlemen that read this forum. There is a push for "Young Folks" to get involved. They read this forum. There are potential new members that read this forum. Most people go by first impressions. Please consider this...<P>Thank you in advance.<P>Peter J.

Hi, Fred.<P>We have a Powder Coating system at the foundry. Used for industrial castings, such as, the seats at over 50 sports stadium seat stancheons (Blackhawks, Joe Robbie, etc.), Mack Truck parts, and, so on.<P>The procedure is the part has to be clean, the part is pre-heated to the point it would burn your skin, the part is magnetized, the powder is sprayed, the molecules in the powder are drawn magnetically to the charged part, then goes through the heat ovens to basically bake the finish.<P>Color choices were limited to basic ones and has improved over the years, however, I never ran across "chrome" powder only because we would never have a need for it. <P>Unless someone else has better data, I cannot fathom powder coat colors as I know them that would generate a comparable to chrome finish.<P>Even compared to porcelainizing cast parts, such as exhaust manifolds on the older cars, powder would hold up, but, you could tell the difference with porcelain finishes.<P>Powder is very durable. Withstands harsh attacks from gasoline, chemicals, etc.<P>Don't know what to tell you to do. Hopefully, someone with more info will chime in here.<P>Regards, Peter J.

Hello, folks...<P>In the AACA - Tech Questions there is a post entitled "Steel Brake Drums". I am posting a topic here to possibly help your restoration/preservation problems.<P>The subject of worn out brake drums, exhaust manifolds, and, so on, has come up occasionally, so, I thought I would share a case history example.<P>I am in the Foundry Business. Grey Iron and Ductile Iron. Back in the mid-70's, a gent showed up in the office lobby. He was holding a worn out exhaust manifold for a Cord (cannot remember the year). He asked if we could reproduce it?<P>Told him the pattern equipment, back then, would be about $4,500 ($8,000 today). He was shocked as I knew he would be. After discussion, I noted that "high wear popular parts" must be needed by other Cord owners. Suggested he get as many owners interested in "chipping in" for the patterns.<P>The benefit is the piece price came down as they ordered 120 of them. Each person "chipping in" became the cooperative owner of the patterns. They advertised within their own circles that the parts are now available. More club members ordered them, and, in turn, they recouped the pattern investment, then, the piece price came down after the pattern costs were recouped. They did not want a profit in the long haul, just desperate for a popular part.<P>This approach could also be used with stampings, aluminum castings, etc., etc.<P>Basically, converse with your fellow Marque owners, find out what rare parts availability is drying up, and, get their interest in investing in the tooling.<P>When I hear about the rarity of the brake drums vs. the quality of used drums from flea markets, reality smacks me in the face that shortly there will be no resources.<P>I have to make it perfectly clear that this is not some sort of advertisement for my company. It is "ONLY" a suggestion for fellow hobbyist that there is an alternative approach to obtaining "high wear, popular parts" for the long haul.<P>Get in touch with fellow owners who all have the same problem with sources for a part, get a quote from a manufacturer, sign up tooling investors, and, go from there.<P>Of most importance: "What is the correct material?"<BR>Take a worn out part to the source, ask them to analyze it if you don't know. In our lab, we use a plasma arc nucleonic spectrometer that will give us everything but carbon equivalent.<P>Regards, Peter J.<P>

Hello, gents. <P>Some interesting queries. I'll do my best to get back with some facts after consulting our metallurgical gurus tomorrow.<P>Steve and Terry: I made note to check out the spray welding, though, I am not a big fan of this for longevity, heat atmosphere, etc. Sleeving, that Terry mentioned sounds better, but, I still want to investigate to the best of my resources.<P>Restorer32: I'll tell you what, my hat is off to you for determination, not to mention the success of turning that 14" slug.<P>PackardV8: As for Bethlehem Steel - sorry. It is dead. The huge Bethlehem, PA Comlex is part of a rehabilitation project. Most recently, there was an effort to retain a few of the huge stacks for historical purposes. The rest of the complex will become, I believe, shops/restaurants/etc.<P>Aluminum: We pour Fe (grey iron & ductile iron) castings. We have cross-business relations with Aluminum/Non-Ferrous foundries, so, let me know what, if any help, I can lend.<P>Al: Know where you are coming from hitting the hard spots. Many castings, "New", are machined perfectly and sold. This is relative to any commercial casting. A BIG however, is when one mills down the original machined surface deeper, then deeper, then deeper, it is inherent with Ferrous Castings that you probably, or, eventually will hit carbides, even porosity pockets that were not evident when the part was new.<P>Going through it big time now with an industrial account's Bevel Gears for valve actuators. They did not tell us up front that they would take an as-cast 6" diameter, and, depending on special orders, turn it down a full 2.76" a side. That's a hell of a lot of material.<P>Remember: Cast Iron parts and Porosity/Carbitic Pockets are part of the beast. Section Size dictates the severity.<P>--I'll get back to you folks shortly with any advise. Must get to the plant tomorrow and discuss with the "gurus".<P>Regards, Peter J.

Reid, I rambled on the previous response, forgetting to mention your drums are down only .019". Again, as PackardV8 mentioned, I would not panic at this point. Depending on the wall thickness of the drum and it gets down to (-) .025 "a side" then make a decision. (Don't know how thick the section size is, so, I am making conjecture.)<P>Regards, Peter J.

Reid, how are you?<P>PackardV8 made some good points.<P>I am in the foundry business. We used to make brake rotors by the thousands, just for a case example. We lost "all" the work to China. Gets down to price. (My company: <BR>$ .38 per pound. China: $ .26 per pound "DELIVERED TO YOUR COMPANY".) We testified in D.C. before a Senate Sub-Committee some years ago about the dumping of inferior, price driven replacement parts (the parts you buy at your local discount parts "Chain Stores" AND at the "Dealership" where your modern day driver was purchased.) All to no avail...<P>Steel certainly has a higher Brinnell & Rockwell hardness & wear characteristics Vs. Cast Iron. However, the cost of Steel is considerably higher than cast iron. Price, again.<P>Brass Vs. Pop-Rivets: I am not in the non-ferrous industry, but, my best guess is brass has better spark resistance than aluminum pop rivets, though negligibe as PackardV8 proved. Do not know if my theory on spark resistance has much to do with this.<BR>Aluminum will score quicker than brass, but, again, PackardV8 proved it is a mute opinion.<P>Pop Rivets sure are cheaper than brass and if they work, try it.<BR><B>"Delivered"</B><P>Regards, Peter J. <p>[ 08-19-2002: Message edited by: Peter J Heizmann ]

Red, you will have better success by posting this question in the "Tech Section".<P>Regards, Peter J.

Thanks for posting them, Bob. It sure is moving along.<P>Regards, Peter J.

Anyone remember what the original "post" topic was?