BuickNut

Hey...got some before and after pics on that ? For the guy running 13's with his buick....what mods have you done ? Just curious..I once had a 69 GS with a "never been opened" junkyard 400 in3 '68 GS engine in it....never got it to the track, but did it haul a_ _ ! Put it in drive, foot to the floor, and ripped it in all three gears of the turbo 400 (though the car had been signifigantly lighted by stratigic removal of material...RUST ! ahhhh yes, living in the norhtern rust belt ! )

I just looked in my Northern Tool catalogue ("northerntool.com"...nope, not connected with them...just have the catalogue handy) and they have utility trailers (40" x 48", and another 4'x8') if you want to go that route...though I can't help you directionally with the "hot rod" trailers that have become popular - guess it depends on how close you are to the trip and what you can adapt/build/buy. If you do what the hot rod type trailer - I suggest you get onto some of the websites - they must have sources. <P>I do know what you mean about what is the best "emergency pack" to stow away. I guess I'd try to minimize the tools/parts by "realistically" figuring what you can fix on the road...although I have had to carry a small hydraulic jack and jackstand as previously mentioned - to get underneath....and the fluids too. Good luck with how you decide. (Personally, I never go far enough that I'm not pushing the "favor button" too far that some buddies aren't really put out by hauling me back with their trailer....yeah, I know, it's nice to have friends with equipment like that..)

Now THAT is a neat idea ! Thanks so much for the tip....when you have to repair panels, and there's undercoating there to catch fire - you really need to get it off. Thanks again ! I'll give it a try.

If you can't rid yourself if the entire car, I would be interested in some of the chrome if you decide to part with it...in particular the grill and mustach bar, stainless stone guards (LH/RH). Let me know.<P>thanks.<P>BuickNut

Yeah, I would suggest you getting a shop manual and trying to do as much as you can yourself. Next time (20/20 hind sight with this piece of advice..sorry) ask around a little more and find a reputable shop - find the guys that do some racing - they generally have the poop on the good shops. <BR>Believe it not, though the old stuff is less complex, there are fewer and fewer "mchanics" that have the knowledge to work on the stuff. I heard a guy in a tune-up shop telling a customer his carb needed rebuilding and they didn't do that type of work there. Pretty funny considering I rebuilt my first carb at 16 and didn't have any experience - I just jumped in and did it. "Mechanic" aren't really mechanics anymore - they have all sorts of computers to diagnose problems for them.....though I give those of them credit that do use their heads as well as the computers.

Sorry, already picked one up.....

Anybody going to make it to the Detroit Michigan Woodward Dream Cruise on Friday/Saturday/Sunday ? Are there any BCA areas set aside, if so, where ? I won't be able to make it with the Buick(s) because they're still in the cue for restoration, but will be there anyhow.

Contact me....

Contact me....

I just started using a K&N air filter...does help with the performance (..at least by feel, haven't taken it to the strip to verify). Question about the air/oil filter though. I've always used Fram, both oil and air...I got 180kmiles out of my truck changeing every 3kmi for oil, every 8-10 k for air. Guess I'm a little hesitant about changing what works as to the oil filter...does anybody have any suggestions that might be in the filter biz that might know for sure about the oil filter quality ? No offense to prior writers, just want to get the official poop on it....

....of course you could get the BEST indicated speed if you just cruise at 100mph and wait for one of those cars with the funny lights on top to pull you over and inform you of your transgression of the posted speed limit.....

Has anybody used Corroloss from Eastwood ? What results, and how many coats, will it take regular spray paint (rustoleoum..for example) top coat ?

I called the rep from POR15 that responded to my emailed complaint about the product. He stated my problem was that the base paint I put on should have had 2 coats prior to putting on the POR15 top coat. I had problems with it flaking off, and the rust coming through the stuff that didn't flake off. So since it was 2 yrs ago, I can't remember is I did that or not. Seems the top coat is NOT a rust preventative, though I got the impression from the literature that it was supposed to be. The areas that flaked off, probably wasn't degreased well enough. The degreasing was a problem as it was an everyday driver, and I can't dunk the vehicle and let it soak for days in degreaser - so much for making a product that can be used in everyday situations! Though admittedly, ANY coating won't work unless the substrate is properly degrease - so I guess I shouldn't expect miracles. I guess it was the answer I was expecting from them - not a very satisfying response. The bad thing is that I have already applied it in on some other areas, and once you get the paint on and it cures, you need to sand the heck out of the stuff to put some bit into the base coat to put another coat on, because it does dry rock hard and smooth as glass...just I don't think it adheres as well as it should. Well, I still have some stuff left, I may try the rest of it per his instructions - again, heck, its just an old truck and not on of the restoring vehicles - but I'd hate to go back over and do it again is the problem. Guess I'm not pissed at them, but their literature should specify that the 2 coats need to be JUST the base coat. Thats a lot of time puting on paint though, because each subsequent coat needs to be added while the previous coat is still tacky....so I'm looking at probably about 6 hrs for each area to be painted, if I go with 2 base coats and 1 top coat. How many coats does it take with the other paints mentioned ?

Still looking for these parts.<P>Thanks

I actually posted a complaint to POR-15 on their website after going through this thread and seeing others with the same spotty/disappointing results as I've gotten. They called and left a message the same day. I'll get back with and update after I get a chance to talk to them about the problems I have encountered that seem common the other users.

Thanks so much for your input. Looks like I wasn't too far off the mark - but I wanted to make sure. I have bought a lot of parts in the past that were NOS advertised, and with the example of my uncles parts, and knowing that there were design changes - it does make sense. Again, thanks for your help.

Question about parts : I know that NOS means New Old Stock, and is considered to be direct replacement for factory installed parts, with parts made to the same factory installed specs and design by the OEM supplier. Does NORS mean New Old Replacement Stock, or New Old Restored Stock, and is this supposed to refer to AFTERMARKET parts (Kelly Springfield "Kelly Charger" tires vs Wide Oval G-70's or the red line tires, for example) ? I have run across some parts that are right out of a sealed, never opened AC Delco box, that are specified for the car for the year, but are NOT the same design as what came off the factory floor on the vehicle (I know the parts because my uncle bought the car new and never replaced the part - we compared them, and you can see obvious physical differences - though both parts ARE AC Delco). Would this "not exactly the same design, but made by the OEM supplier" part be considered as NOS or NORS, and would they take off for this at car shows if it was OEM made, but not original design ? Were these parts considered NORS and aftermarket replacements made by the OEM and still have points taken off and NOT considered NOS ? <P>Thanks.

I have a question about the painting process described here : if you put the painted parts in a grill to cure, does this present a danger of fire or explosion ? Note: I had bad success (only lasted 8 months before rust came through/paint peeling and flaking off..) with the Eastwood manifold paint, but I admit it was not applied under the best of conditions (winter time, sandblasted, air dry in basement, cured on engine 2 days later by running for 45/60 minutes). Since you guys have had success as described, I may give 'er another go - but still wondering about the potential hazard....

I used the POR-15 engine paint on my everyday drive-in-Michigan-weather/winters on my 4WD and its been great - engine still looks good. However, with the frame paint I've used, its been mixed results - both with and without useing their recommended top coat. Some areas its peeling and flaking off, others its holding yet. I used their degreaser and metal prep and per their directions all the way through. I think the degreasing is probably a major point unless your doing a frame off resto. Again - mixed results such that I'm also going to give Corroless a try on the rest of the frame.

Sorry to hear of your problems. What milage does the car have ? I've got a high milage vehicle (155 kmiles...) which I know needs a new timing chain & distributor - no matter what I do to the settings, even when set to stock - it won't run or idle correctly though the it has all new tune up parts, carb rebuild, etc.. What shape is your distributor in besides what you outlined ? Was the problem there before you swapped out your stock ignition system ? Is the engine high performance or did you rebuild to higher performance than stock ? Is this the same gas station your getting your gas from ?

Worse yet than the demo derby are the travelling car crushers that go on a more regular basis to the junk yards now. About 8 years ago I went on a "junket" down south to get some parts for some then-not-too-old cars ('78 Skyhawk and a '73 Century) and was told by yard after yard that the crusher was just though on its 3 times yearly cyle through the junkyards. I know that a lot of yards do keep the older cars from the crusher, but hey, our older cars aren't the older cars of today's kids that might possibly get into the hobby. It would be nice if they had some cars left to go after too, as they get old enough to afford (..yeah, right I know...) the hobby !

Good question about the brake drums cooking out the anti-seize, but it doesn't happen. With both brake rotors and drums, the center of the unit runs cooler than the actual brake surfaces. This idea has been used, though not often due to the cost and because of the material handling issues of hazerdous materials and possibly getting the anti-seize on the brake surfaces in producion settings (..hard to control...) recently by the big 3 in particular on either the hub rotor mounting surface or the inside of the rotors. I have used this idea on my truck rear drums for years without a problem. Granted, front brakes do get hotter, but as long as you apply the anti-seize with moderation (just a little dab will do ya...), it also should not be a problem since they do use it on some applications with rotors on the front from the factory in recent years. Just a trick I came across.

Good idea about the "brake nails". But with cars that don't have integral bearings in the brake drums, usually the drum corrodes to the wheel hub. Usually have to use heat or lots of PB Blaster sprayed into the wheel bolt holes and the "big 'ol hole" in the center. To prevent this in the first place with this type of drum, you might want to try using anti-sieze to the drum mounting face of the wheel hub every time you do the brakes..BUT BE CAREFUL YOU DON'T GET IT ON THE BRAKING SURFACES !!!!!

That's good news about the use of synthetic grease on the wheel bearings. However, I would be careful about changing to synthetic oils/lubes in already broken in engines, trannys and axles. I've read that once you get about 20 k or so miles on a car, stick with the lubes you have been using - especially in the engine as different oils will give different wear characteristcs with the pistons/cylinders, and the bearings. Also, and this is first hand experience with a 75k newer car, I replaced all the gear lubes to synthetic and came across the problem also stated - that even with new seals, synthetics are more prone to leaking than conventional. My suggestion (for what its worth), stick with your oil for the engines, and maybe put up with synthetic leakage from the other areas due to its superior lube/heat resistance characteristics. Though be sure to put a leak pan under your car so as not to hurt the ol' enviornment.

Just out of curiousity, does anybody know the difference in filtering efficiency, and air flow rate and characteristics between the old oil bath air filters and the paper filter elements ? I know that K&N makes a filter that is a foot in each bucket (I believe oil impregnated cloth for the filter element...) that is supposed to filter as well with higher flow rates than a stock paper filter - but what might be the difference bewteen the old oil bath and modern paper filters ?<P>Thanks.