BuickNut

Possibly the new carb might have some problems with it - for the simple reason it "just went bad" or you had some bad gas that ruined some of the inner parts (seals, jets, etc) ? Are you SURE the carb is the one specified for the car/engine/tranny combo you have ? Are the Carter AFB's that you have also specified for your car/engine/tranny combo ? There is nothing wrong in using the older, original carbs and rebuilding them (if they need it)......just make sure that is your problem of bad gas milage. Is your car tuned properly, do you have any fuel/air leaks, new air cleaner or dirty old one, what is your rear end ratio (running 4:10's on the highway will get you bad gas milage unless you have an overdrive unit), are you running rich or lean for carb settings ? Lots besides the carb could be your problem....does the car run ok (smooth, no hesitation on acceleration, no smell of gas) ? <P>Start with the tune up settings, check plugs, points, plug wires, carb settings, etc. before you even get to switching carbs....

Hi,<P>If you decide to part it out, please let me know as I could use some parts - namely door panels, rear armrest panels, tail lights, rear/front bumper if in good shape, tilt steering, etc.<P>Thanks.<P>Ray

Can you send me a list of what you have please ? Do you have them identified as to application and part number ? What might you be asking for them ?<P>Thanks.

Anybody else have problems with Coker WW's, or with their serice ? While it was originally a tire problem, sounds like even if you get BFG's, that the service might be a problem if you get them through Coker. My dad (before the WW radials were out for long, got 4 WW bias ply from Coker. He has hardly driven the car - so no tire problems and no service problem. This has me concerned given they are so widely advertised......

Honestly, I have never owened one, and I can only attest to the bad reputation they had - as I belive that also Olds put a diesel in some of their cars too and also had problems. Rumors had it that after about 1 or 2 years, or when the original owners wanted to trade them in - the dealerships weren't taking them back in on trade because of the poor reliability and performance problems the diesels had, knowing they couldn't unload them as used cars. I agree with the previous gentleman (unless you know the owner and can trust his word as to lack of problems)....RUN, RUN, RUN away as fast as you can. I would also think that replacement parts would be rather hard to come by as well.

How/where does one come across the 6 volt alternators ? I might consider one for my '49 Super.

Hi......how much for the hood and ram air system; what condition is the interior (seats front and rear) and are they bucket seats ? Condition of dash pad (with/without air ?) Conditon of bumpers and chrome on it ? Grille and conditon ? GS Insignias and condition ? Price for these and shipping to Detroit area (48188 zip code)<P>Thanks.<P>Ray

My email address is "res2897@aol.com". If they are in good shape per the photos, then I'm definately interested.<P>Thanks.<P>Ray

Coker used to also supply the BFG tires....I have not seen them advertised, while they still do advertise their in-house brand. Where did you find out that BFG no longer makes wide whites ? I was thinking about getting a set in a couple of years, and was more leaning towards them than Coker.....

Is anybody near Houston TX that might check out a car that I'm interested in ? I've seen the pictures of it, but due to all the baloney going on since Sept 11 (plus my "apprehension" about flying in the first place....), I'd REALLY prefer not to fly down to look for myself. I've got a pretty good idea about the car from the pics, but would like a look-see to know if its really worth my time. Please email me if your close by there. Thanks for the favor

I did some more experimenting on my '86 Truck again with some POR 15....per the directions of using 2 coats of the base coat, and not as I previously did 1 base coat 1 topcoat. I also tried using it with their specific fiberglass matting and POR-15 filler/reinforcing putty for some body work to fill some holes. I would suggest using their fiberglass matting since it is much thinner/finer than stuff at the parts stores. <P>Their system seems logical and better than using fiberglass resin or bondo in that you put down the POR-15 paint (which acts as a rust preventer - hopefully this time it will after using 2 coats of the stuff), then while the paint is wet, put down the matting, and coat the matting with the paint. It does dry very hard (very suprising that it is as hard and firm as they said), but I still used the suggested putty to spread over it to give it added strength. We'll see it how works out through this winter. If anything, the putty is very good by itself for repairing small holes - seemingly better than bondo or fiberglass filler. Again, we'll see.<P>Question though - I've seen filler advertised in Eastwood that contains aluminum particles......is this a GOOD thing given when steel comes into contact with aluminum over time you get corrosion ??? <P>Obviously I'm from the Great White North to have to be concerned about this thing called RUST......lucky you guys in the south or west

Yeah, but you buy the shop manual, then when you need it you find that the wife "put it somewhere" out of the way !!! Well, guess if she can put up with me puttering around with old cars.......I shouldn't complain too much. Just make sure to tell the mechanic (if he's the one working on it..) to clean his paddies before looking in the book (...that'll get a remark or two from him I'll bet )

These are for the Regal ? They should have 3 or 4 horizontal bars going across the entire light. Do you have the whole light assembly both RH and LH ? I'd give $15.00 apiece for starters. Let me know what your throught are on that.......and what shape the lights are in. <P>ThankS

I have seen some rechromed bumpers through "CARS" that will work on one of my cars....has anybody done any business with them concerning rechromes parts, with any success......rumors, tales from friends, etc ?<P>Thanks. I think I'll try some of the suggested vendors mentioned for the other cars needing chrome work if I can't find either NOS or good rechromed parts.....<P>Other vendor suggestions - any near Detroit or Toledo or Cleveland ?<P>Thanks.

-Check to make sure points are set right<BR>-Check all electrical resistances,etc. per the manual too<BR>-Check to see that fuel is squirting out of the jets in the carb while you pull on the throttle linkage (WHILE THE CAR IS NOT RUNNING AND TURNED OFF ! )<BR>-Pull the fuel line off the carb, run it into a cup or bowl ; crank the engine and see if fuel is squirting out (pull the coil wire to make sure it doesn't start whiile doing this..)<BR>-As long as you have fuel in the bowl, the pump is probably ok - though check your fuel lines for even small leaks - it could be sucking air in addition to fuel<BR>-My dad wound up getting rid of a car because (even after a bunch of friend mechanics looked at it) it wouldn't start - we had spark, timing was roughly correct, had fuel out of the carb, etc...turned out the plug wires were just bad enough to get out spark...but not enough. The next owner couldn't get it to start, sold it, and that guy replace the plug wires and PRESTO - it started. (LESSON - DON'T TAKE ANYTHING FOR GRANTED )

Hi...I was just wondering about some of the bigger houses (CARS, Bumper Boyz, "those good ol boys in Texas" ..... for example) or those that sell mucho Buick parts, and how good, in general, their chrome/rechromed parts have been ? Also, I was wondering if anybody had suggestions for chroming/plating vendors in the Midwest (particularly around either Detroit, Toledo, Cleveland, Columbus...). I have about 2-4 cars worth of parts I will eventually replace, or get rechromed, so I would like to go to somebody reputible. My vehicles are going to be driven - so while I'm not looking for show quality, I do want good stuff that I won't be paying and arm and a leg for. Thanks.

Concerning Kanter's, I didn't state that their parts are of poor quality - just that they are terribly expensive when you compare them to most vendors (with relatively little shopping around) you can find either through Hemmings Motor News, Cars and Parts, etc. (other restoring mag's). Their parts are probably of no better quality than the other vendors either. Keep in mind that there are many parts stores, Pep Boys for one, actually has a lot of older car parts for vehicles back to the 60's - that probably have many parts such as front end (though you would probably have to order them separately and talk to the counter guy, or see what Kanter offers in their kits and order the same type of parts....). I have run across vendors that have sold their inventories to Kanter's - and they mark them up a whole bunch when you compare to what the vendor sold them for to their customers. If you want to go with them- they are an easy shop as they have much in kits - but you pay for that "service".

I would check some other sources than Kanter. They are EXTEMELY expensive when compared to other places and smaller vendors....mostly double the price. Look through Hemmings Motor News (they also have a website). You may have to go to 2 or 3 vendors to get what you need (generally you can get overhaul gasket sets, and overhaul engine parts as kits but each from a separate vendor). I would honestly never get anything from Kanter unless I absolutely couldn't find it anywhere else. Aside from whatever suppliers they go to for new parts - they also go to smaller vendors selling out of their stock to fill their inventory as well. So I doubt that you will get much better quality going to them vs a smaller vendor....so I don't think going to them is consistant with doing it right the first time. Just make sure you get parts that are made from reputible companies which the smaller vendors may have - they may actually have better parts than Kanter - you just might have to shop around some. Just my 2 cents worth as I have noticed their very high prices over the years.

Thanks Kelsey...but looks like I'll have to pass for now.

CONSOLE: I was actually looking for the console that was used for the manual transmission o the GS's.<P>TAILLIGHTS: The Regal had a "grate" that consisted of 3 or 4 horizontal bars (plastic) that went the entire width of the light. The Century did not have the "grate".<P>Thanks for your help anyway guys. <P>GENERAL WEBSITE READERS:<BR>Anybody else have any of these parts by chance ?

Hi,<P>I need the following for a 1973 Buick Regal 2 Door Coupe:<P>-Tail lights (LH & RH)<BR>-Door Panels<BR>-Arm Rests on Door panels<BR>-Stainless around grill<BR>-Stainless around windows (Side door and rear sides, windshield, rear window)<BR>-Any emblems or script, lettering<BR>-NORS/NOS Rear Brake Drums<BR>-NORS/NOS Frt Disc brake rotors<BR>-Front Bumper (good shape as mine need rechromed - want to avoid cost of this)<BR>-Rear Bumper (good shape as mine just needs rechrome - want to avoid cost of this)<BR>-Front Bumper Guards with rubber if possible<BR>-Rocker moldings<BR>-Center console between seats<P>Thanks<p>[ 10-12-2001: Message edited by: BuickNut ]

Well, if you could (..ok, the wife is gonna kill me...), drop me a couple of pics just for a preliminary look see. Thanks.

Its too bad about the ugliness of the Aztek...I've driven one and they are actually fun to drive - for their intended niche that is (still get a bigger kick out of driving my '49 Super and '73 GS...). Braking is superb, as is the handling, and I would call spirited (definately not muscle !) powertrain. Also funny is that originally, the Rendezvous and Aztek intentionally sideskirted calling themselves SUV's, but instead I believe called themselves SRV's (Sport Recreational Vehicles) to assure the public didn'd percieive them as beefy 4WD'ers as say a Durango, Trailblazer, or the like, as the AWD or FWD was not up to the task. I guess economic times being what they are, they have to cross over to the SUV terrain. But I do think this event is very good - and the big 2 and little 1 should participate in more of them...if anything to try and get the public excited about cars again....not just that "Gee, I have a pretty blue one !" when you talk about your car. Today's vehicles, because of the inability of most folks to work on them due to their complexity, don't inspire the "hands on" involvement or excitement about them. When was the last time you could take a vehicle you just bought and increase the HP by doing thing like you could "way back then" by adding headers, 4 bbl carb, etc ? Try even to change the oil or air cleaner on the new ones.....quite a sad time for the automobile !

I'm probably REALLY late with this...but do you have any drums for a '73 Century GS Stage 1 or a '69 Sportwagon ? What shape are they in, NORS, NOS, or good used ?

Still looking if anybody has these...