bobwhite

On reatta.net, click on documentation. There is a Acrobat file with the parts list and another one with illustrations. Also, service manuals for all the years can be downloaded.

Jim's price was a third less than Flow Chevrolet's price of $28.00. But Jim will get it out right away, and Flow will take weeks. I can't park and lock the car with the window down, so I need the switch ASAP. The switch is on the 08A11 page of the documentation. I found the part number by downloading the parts list.

I got this back from Flow Chevrolet. Part # 3530765 I bought one from Jim Finn

Does the passengers side switch raise or lower the window? My drivers side switch lost one contact last week and that resulted in being able to lower the driver window, but not raise it. It depends on which contact is lost. Check the pink wire on the switch for +12Volts. If there is 12 volts, it is probably a bad switch. Jim Finn has them as well as Flow Chevrolet. If there is no voltage, it could be one of the two relays that are in that circuit.

I agree with 63viking. I used to repair car stereos for a living, and your problem sounds like it is the connection that feeds power to the radio continuously. That is the circuit that runs the clock and the CPU. When it starts working again does the clock have the correct time?

Its funny, but most distinctive cars are always thought by some people to be ugly, while a lot of people think them remarkably beautiful. I've heard a few people say that both my Reatta and my Citroen CX were ugly. That's why so many cars built today have no looks at all, they could be any make. If a car looks attractive to some, it will be ugly to others. So build a car that is attractive to no one, and no one will think they are ugly.

You have one?

How is this for a unusual car?

Besides the wire, there are electronics in the module. They go bad in different ways. Mine would occasionally make the motor stop. I found that tapping on it lightly with the wood handle of a screwdriver when running would cause the motor to stop. I also found that unplugging the sensor made the car run better until the new sensor arrived. I bought a new Delco sensor from gmpartsdirect for about $225 including freight plus core charge of $60 which was returned after I returned the core. It was easy to change, just put a rag under it when removing the screws so they won't accidentally fall where they can't be retrieved. After changing it last April, there hasn't been any more problems or codes.

I believe there are two power lines to the radio. One is hot all the time to keep the clock and memory alive. The other is hot when the ignition is on so the radio will work. If one of these is intermittent, you can have the problems you describe. Check for loose wires or fuses. Might be a fuse that has a bad link in it. So replacing the radio fuse would be a easy start.

I got the door panel off without causing any damage. All the holding pins were unbroken. After looking everything over, it appears the friction that was causing the problem was around the area where you insert the key to unlock the door manually, a place you can't see from the back. So I sprayed a little cleaner lubricant through the key hole and around the door handle. If you hold the outside handle all the way up, you can spray down through the openings. Make sure the windows are all the way up when you do it. I also cleaned the pins on all the switches and plugs. Now it works much better and the windows seem to go up and down faster. There was a little corrosion on the door lock, unlock switch. I scraped it off, sprayed it, and it works better too now. Now with the remote, the door locks and unlocks with a strong click rather than the sluggish one I had.

Thanks for the great help. When you push the lock button on the remote, you do hear the solenoid try to lock. The door panel has never been off as I am the original owner. I lost out on some panel push pins on eBay, a set went for $29.50. Are they still available from GM? I'll report what I find. As far as banging my head on my computer, something is wrong with one of them, and I always heard banging something gets it to start working properly again.

I have the service manual for my 1990 Reatta. Is there any tricks not mentioned in the manual for removing the door panel?

My problem is both doors don't lock when you push the lock button on the remote. The drivers door will lock only with a key. Both <span style="font-weight: bold">will</span> unlock with the remote button. It does arm, so if you accidentally pull the drivers door handle and haven't locked it with the key, the alarm goes off. The lock/unlock lever inside moves a little bit when you try it with the remote, but goes up when doing it manually. Where should I start?

In all my years repairing car stereos, I've found that just about all of the problems you have are caused by something wrong in the antenna cable or antenna. Could be a short or a broken wire. Either give the same results. My quick test was to unplug the antenna cable from the antenna, and hook up a 5 foot piece of single, unshielded insulated thin wire (18 to 24 gauge)to the center connection of the cable. Be sure to strip the insulation from the end that contacts the antenna cable. If you get good reception, it is the antenna, if not it is the cable from the radio to the antenna. On easier access radios, I had a 5 foot piece of wire soldered to a antenna plug. I would unplug the antenna cable and plug in my test cable. That tests the radio itself. But I don't remember how easy that is to do on a Reatta. As a alternative, you can get a cheap aftermarket antenna with the proper plug on it.

When my wife first drove our Porsche 911 and our Citroen SM, and later the Citroen CX, she was scared by the brakes. They just stopped you so quickly. Soon they felt normal. Now the Reatta brakes scare her because they just don't stop you like most European cars. If you have never driven a car with great brakes, then the average US car feels fine. That's why I'm looking forward to putting bigger calipers on the Reatta. Too bad I have to change the 15" wheels, as I think they are very attractive.

Finally got around to installing the new battery cables. They fit just like the originals, but if you order a set, state if you want GM battery connectors or the standard type. Mine came with standard connectors. It wasn't a problem as I intend to convert to a standard type battery the next time I need one. I contacted the cable maker about it as I expected GM connectors. It seems the Reatta owner who supplied all the measurements wanted standard connectors, so that data was put in their database. They offered to redo them at no charge or send me a pair of adapters. I chose the adapters since I will make the change later. The quality of the cable construction was nice to see. When I first started the car, I was impressed by the difference in sound the starter made. The voltage at the starter during cranking must have gone up a volt or two. I wish I had measured cranking voltage before I changed them.

I owned a factory authorized warranty station for many brands for 51 years, I repaired car stereos as well as home stereos and projection TVs, before that I repaired tube TVs and car radios and mono Hi-Fi equipment. Over the years it seems like the scan button was deliberately set to skip over weak stations. And they didn't have a adjustment for the sensitivity level either. The tube radios were adjustable, but when it all went silicon, the circuit was part of the IC, and nothing could be done. I just put the weak stations in memory and scanned the strong ones. I got a lot of complaints over the years about this problem, but the only thing I could do was complain at factory service seminars. You can imagine what good that did.

There a lot of free photo resizers available on the net. I use them to shrink pictures for the web or to post on sites like this. Here is a example

I've replaced mine twice. Try tapping on it with the back of a screwdriver with the motor running. Mine would chug or quit at every tap. Cleaning the wires didn't help mine. My first replacement was done by my local service station. He used a cheap reman, but charged me more than I paid for the second, a Delco reman from GMparts direct. The Delco unit cost me US $176.28 + $60 core deposit. Plus a whopping $48 for handling and shipping. I replaced it last April and no trouble since. Place a rag under the sensor when you remove the screws that hold them, if you drop one, it might be lost forever.

The location of the pressure switch prevents using a standard socket to remove it. The switch is squeezed into a tight location You have to find a thin wall socket to get it out. Some members have ground down the walls of regular sockets so it would fit.

I would compare the passengers side with the drivers side. I check mine by putting my hand under the belt about mid-way from my shoulder to the latch, then just yank it forward. Jiggle it a few times to see if the lock catches. I had to replace one of my cars drivers belt when the catch failed. I'm sure Jim Finn has them.

It has been so long since I had it repaired, I can't find the paperwork. I believe I had it repaired by corvetteradios.com. They repaired the amplifier and replaced the belts. I think the cost was about $150.00. It has been over ten years since they repaired it, so I guess they did a good job, as I have had no problems since. Ask them for a estimate. Do a search on radio repairs, I remember that there were a few recommendations for repair shops around the country. Also there is a article about the cause if the radio was in a 88 or 88 Reatta. That is at Static & popping repair

This problem has come up before. It starts with a static or crackling or popping sound out of one channel. It is caused by defective parts in the amplifier module of the radio assembly. I sent mine in for repair and it turned out to be a bad amplifier output IC chip. I've heard that defective capacitors or poor solder joints can cause similar problems. If you get the static sound when no music is being played, it is not a speaker problem. If you send it in, have the belts changed in the cassette player. It doesn't cost much if done at the same time, but saves a lot of grief if it happens shortly after you get the sound problem repaired.

This reminds me of a old poem from the 30's. When the Nazis came for the communists, I remained silent; I was not a communist. When they locked up the social democrats, I remained silent; I was not a social democrat. When they came for the trade unionists, I did not speak out; I was not a trade unionist. When they came for me, there was no one left to speak out.