dodge28
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Posts posted by dodge28
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Plate in backwards ? I would like to see that .It is like putting on your dentures backwards. One side of the center clutch drive is longer than the other. Installed backwards , the clutch will not release.
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Rusty Otoole, You said a mouth full. I tried to rebuild a 1928 Chev. National Coupe. Body by Fisher. What a useless car. All wood and few sheet metal covering. Buicks of that era are the same. Here is what I see. By the time you reach half way you will be so frustrated you would wish you never started this project. I would go for a dodge or Chrysler project.
The big question is do want a project or driver ?
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Grinding the cam is one point. The lifter part that contacts the lobe must be ground too. There are shops that can case harden cams lobes and lifters.
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nice video and car.
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Yesterdays cars were made to run on yesterday traffic conditions. If you want to drive those cars in todays traffic conditions it is necessary to modify to keep up. No 2 ways about it.
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The rug rail is missing, Was there one ?
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It is a nice car. If you like what you are doing it is called a hobby. If you are doing something you do not enjoy it is called drudgery. Take note before you jump into the fray .
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Yes. Very interesting video . Life cycle of Mr. Piece.
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Plate in backwards ? I would like to see that .It is like putting on your dentures backwards.
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May be you should try The Filling Station. They specialized in GM products.
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I have not driven my 28 DB Senior on the street yet but I am using a lawnmower can hanging from the cross rod and it seems to be very thirsty.
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From what you describe the clutch rebuilder did a con job. To properly rebuild a clutch, it has to be dis assembled completely. The springs has to be the same stiffness and height. The plate has to be resurfaced and most likely the fingers replaced or repaired. The springs on the fingers must be tested and all must compare.
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I am not sure if this will work but recently I had a similar situation. My 2 stroke Stihl blower would not start. I took it to the dealer. It was cranking but not starting . The dealer took 10 minutes and had it running. No charge. OLD GAS NOT WORK. Condensation sets in. May be, just may be , the gas in your car is too old.
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Try Cyndi Meyers.
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What ever route you take it is going to be frustrating and expensive. Pictures if possible ?
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I was told by old timers who are long gone ,when a customer bought a Model T, back seat and bumpers were optional. Extra charges. Gas tank was under the drivers seat. If driving up hill while the gas was low drive uphill in reverse. Is it true ?
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Some of those were standard in Studebakers .
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I am not a metallurgist but I think the copper content in most European cars contain too much copper in there wires. After a while in the north American climate with salt on the streets in winter moister seeps in, Copper corrosion builds up. Look at the connections where the green colour is apparent. Famous in British cars using Lucas type connectors. ( Lucas the prince of darkness) . Fires are frequent in Jaguars. I stand corrected.
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"GREAT EXPECTATIONS" by Charles Dickens.
From an old colonial from the West Indies.
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What year and model car please.
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I am subject to correction here. Fuses with ratings of amps and voltages are for residential AC radios. It will withstand a certain voltage before blowing. A valve plate voltage can be as high as 370 volts but low ampere.
In the old days the owner knew nothing about technical repair and was told to take the car to the dealer where the technicians were trained by the manufacturers to service their brand. Today those technicians are the owners. Train yourself.
In late 1970 I visited a retired Ford Dealership at corner of Shanonville Road and Highway 2 in Eastern Ontario. Hanging on the wall in his office was CERTIFICATE OF MOTOR MECHANIC BY FORD MOTOR COMPANY issued by a tech school in Boston dated 1919. Mr. Ken Vivian closed his business because all the Manufacturers were asking that the barn like buildings were to be upgraded like they are today. He could not afforded it financially.
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Pre War you say ? If the rear has leaf springs remove the U bolts . dis connect the brake lines , open the ball behind the tranny and pull the diff assembly back . While you are at it check, resurface the flywheel, replace pilot bushing and release bearings. Oil seals are usually made of wine cork.
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The proper procedure was to soak in Vapor Rust over night and wash off with warm water and blow dry. Use a points file to dress the contacts . Adjust the big nut up or down slowly while touching the terminal with voltage. Keep trying until the horn blows. Those horns are bullet proof. Better than Lucas.
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1929 - 1936 & 1937 - 1942 NEW Master Cylinders
in Chrysler Automobiles and Parts - Buy/Sell
Posted
I see master cylinder for 1929 dodges are bolted to the side of the bell housing and the reservour is self contained. Remove the floor board to access filling fluid. On Chryslers the fluid container is mounted on the fire wall. Bleeding brakes with reservour below wheel cylinder level is tricky at best. How about using a pressure ball bleeder ? Another trick is to crack the line at the master cylinder open and crack the bleeder at the wheel open a little, and pressure the fluid through the bleeder. Reverse bleed.