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dodge28

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Posts posted by dodge28

  1. Rusty Otoole, You said a mouth full. I tried to rebuild a 1928 Chev. National Coupe. Body by Fisher. What a useless car. All wood and few sheet metal covering. Buicks of that era are the same. Here is what I see. By the time you reach half way you will be so frustrated you would wish you never started this project. I would go for a dodge or Chrysler project.

    The big question is do want a project or driver ?  

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  2. From what you describe the clutch rebuilder did a con job. To properly rebuild a clutch, it has to be dis assembled completely. The springs has to be the same stiffness and height. The plate has to be resurfaced and most likely the fingers replaced or repaired. The springs on the fingers must be tested and all must compare. 

  3. I am not sure if this will work but recently I had a similar situation. My 2 stroke Stihl blower would  not start.  I took it to  the dealer. It was cranking but not starting . The dealer took 10 minutes and had it running. No charge. OLD GAS NOT WORK. Condensation sets in.   May be, just may  be , the gas in your car is too old. 

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  4. I am not a metallurgist  but I think the copper content in most European cars contain too much copper in there wires. After a while in the north American climate with salt on the streets in winter moister seeps in, Copper corrosion builds up.  Look at the connections where the green colour is apparent. Famous in British cars using Lucas type connectors. ( Lucas the prince of darkness) . Fires are frequent in Jaguars.  I stand corrected.

  5. I am subject to correction here. Fuses with ratings  of amps and voltages are for residential  AC radios. It will withstand  a certain voltage before blowing. A valve plate voltage can be as high as 370 volts but low ampere. 

    In the old days the owner knew nothing about technical repair and was told to take the car to the dealer where the technicians were trained by the manufacturers to service their brand. Today those technicians  are  the owners. Train yourself. 

    In late  1970 I visited a retired Ford Dealership at corner of Shanonville Road  and Highway 2 in Eastern Ontario. Hanging on the wall in his office was CERTIFICATE OF MOTOR MECHANIC BY FORD MOTOR COMPANY issued by a tech school in Boston dated 1919.  Mr. Ken Vivian closed his business because all the Manufacturers were asking  that the barn like buildings were to be upgraded like they are today. He could not afforded it financially. 

  6. Pre War you say ? If the rear has leaf springs  remove the U bolts . dis connect the brake lines , open the ball behind the tranny and pull the diff assembly back . While you are at it check, resurface the flywheel, replace pilot bushing and release bearings. Oil seals are usually made of wine cork.

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  7. The proper procedure was to soak in Vapor Rust over night and wash off with warm water and blow dry. Use a points file to dress the contacts . Adjust the big nut up or down slowly while touching the terminal with voltage. Keep trying until the horn blows. Those horns are bullet proof. Better than Lucas.

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  8. UTUBE. AACA is displaying some of their cars on UTUBE and even driving them for short distances . The latest ones are a 1910 Buick and a 1928 Piece arrow limo. There is also the history of Mr. Pearse starting with making bicycles.

  9. I was born in March 1936  in a British colonial territory and grew up during the war.  Grocery was rationed (ration card) Lead pencils without erazer. At school we used sand boxes and slates. The teacher told us how people in Grease were starving and they were going through the dustbins of American soldiers. Linen was unavailable because all resources were directed to the war efforts. Consumer goods were sold at black market prices. I know what hard time is.  

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