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dodge28

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Posts posted by dodge28

  1. As a mechanic for more than 60 years I have encountered defective brand new parts, especially thermostats and rebuilt starters and generators. and rebuilt master cylinders  exchanged at the parts dealers stores. The MOT banded the rebuilding of master cylinders and wheel cylinders even at NAPA.  This was done after some accidents caused by rebuilds. Rebuild shops have gone out of business.

    In a recent thread I cautioned about rebuilding of master and wheel cylinders at home garage. Some home mechanics will use a hone to clean the cylinders. Did he measure the oversize bore ?  Will the new rubber seals fit properly ? How long is it going to last ? Are new seals made in Chinneusam safe ? A cylinder bushed by a machinist is honed to original size.  

  2. The inserts in brake wheel cylinders can be removed easily and be replaced with  desired ones . Thread a sheet metal screw in tight and pull on the screw head. The insert will come out . This way it is possible to replace the existing ones with ones that is desired. Use the flare nut to press it back in place 

  3. The problem I had with aluminium cylinders after honing and fitting new rubbers always leaked . I was advised by Land Rovers North to use new cylinders assembly only.  Most North American cars have cast iron made cylinders. They can be honed to fit new seals which is readily available. If the seals are made off shore you would be putting your life at risk. I am not sure if rubber seals made in India are of quality. They are touted to be the best rubber workers in the world. Land Rovers seals are made in India. I know for a fact that Rolling Stone Gather  no MOSS parts are made off shore and I personally have lots of issues with their parts for my MGB. 

  4. Another source is The Filling Station. They are GM specialist. Their parts may be offshore but you are guaranteed return if you do not like the quality. My choice would be to have the cylinders re sleeved with stainless steel. I had my 28 Dodge all done in stainless steel by a fellow in Stoney Creek, Ontario, Canada. Better than new which most likely made off shore. 

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  5. Jon, thank you for the info. The bolt pattern on my Senior manifold is 2 11/16. The manual says the carb for this engine is a UX2. There are other makes and models suggested as you mentioned. Not naming any specific. There is a picture in the manual showing a UX3 for my Senior.  The bolt mount pattern for the UX-3 is way out. I had one of those and I gave it to my Ausie  friend .I sent a BB1D to him also. He has a 28 DB Senior. So I gave him the UX2 ,the Ux3 and the BB1D. The most recent BB1D is the last pull off from my car. In all I estimate I may have spent near 25 hundred dollars in trying to get a decent carb.  My next move will be to get an adapter to convert to a downdraft carb. In the present carb BB1AS, and the previous  BB1D, the IAS screw never worked.  Do you remember the bad pot metal of those carbs ?

  6. I used a BB1 on my 1928  225 Dodge engine. It was rebuilt by a professional Carb rebuilder. I could never get the idle screw to work. Fully screwed in or out made no difference. According to Dodge the original  carb was a UX something , I cannot remember. NO BODY IN THE DODGE BRROTHERS WORLD KNEW HOW TO HOOK UP THE LEVER.  I went to carter BB1. It needed an adapter to mount. Later I was advised to use a Carter BBsa something I cannot remember the number now. The mounting bolts on the manifold were too wide so I made a new adapter. The carb works. But  the air idle  screw has no effect on fine tuning.  

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