dodge28
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Posts posted by dodge28
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Pease cooking in the pot 9 days old, some like it hot ,some like it cold. Each to his own. We all are entitled to that.
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I might be considered a jerk. My cutoff date of antique is 1964, The car up to then has some character
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Did Dussenburg have Murry body in the limos.
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The Buick was too bulky to fit in my garage. I could not get used to driving it in modern traffic.
The Dodge was a project to keep me occupied on retirement. Not too much wood work. I smell Fisher Body scent all over. Body pieces are all nut and bolts and wood screws . Easy to handle because I work alone. I still have a long way to go, but who cares.
If you do not like the work you are doing it is called drudgery. If you like what you are doing it is called a hobby.
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Are you talking about the ignition key assembly at the opposite end of the high tension output coil wire ? If so your EI supplier will give you instruction on how to hook up. CAUTION. Keep the old pieces in a box in the car in case the EI fails on a trip. You will definitely need it.
This is an old thread that has been discussed on this forum. One driver said after his EI broke down he relaced it with the old pieces which he had kept in a box in his car. He threw the EI as far as he could in a field.
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In a perfect functioning system as voltage rises amp drops. For this reason most modern vehicles instrument gauges only have voltmeters . In the old cars the distribution load starts from a Amp meter. I have never seen and old car with a volt meter. I am not saying there is not.
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My friend bought a used Motor Meter. Seller told him it original and works cost 80 $. It never worked. I bought a repro from Restoration Supply for for 80 $ and gave to him as a surprise gift. He had quite a bit of choice words for "original"
Some folks are fooled by "originals" and pay premium price only to realize it does not work. Even replacing the tube is a hassle.
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I your battery is in poor condition there is no amount of repair and adjustment is going to help. Do a load tests. Poor grounds will affect charging.
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🤩 I am not sure about leaving it to the owner. In my Owners Manual it says almost anything not functioning correctly, take it to a Dodge Dealer.
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🙂I would like to compare/contrast 2 cars that I owned . I sold one.
1941 Buick Century 4 door slant back sedan.
Excellent ride.
Soft steering .
roomy.
Luxurious appointment. Wiper chain arranged mechanism.
Built like a tank, beautiful looking shape
The down side is the difficulty in servicing/repairing.
The brake master cylinder is mounted within the frame channel, hard to access. even for filling cylinder,
removing battery is a pain in the back.
to access the clutch the complete rear end has to removed . Left hand thread on the right side. dis connect brake lines.
to remove flywheel, the oil pan has to be removed and the main bearings loosened, the crank has to be dropped a little to clear the way for flywheel removal.
What I FOUND BECAUSE OF ALL THAT HASSLE THE FLYWHEEL WAS NEVER MACHINED in all its life.
It is necessary to punch mark the position of the flywheel bolts to the crank shaft.
The next car I still own. 1928 Dodge Senior and is being restored ground up.
All 4 wheel hydraulic 14 inch brakes easy access to fill and remove master cylinder.
drive shaft can be removed in less than an hour. Designed like a drive shaft on a 1968 Chev.
flywheel can be removed in an hour. Battery can be removed easily.
LOOK AT THE DIFFERENCE in age of the 2 cars, DODGE BROTHERS were far ahead in design in may ways compared to other makes. I am subject to corrections. Feel free to comment. I take no offence.
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Gary-Ash, I see your point. Well taken. I apologized for the miss understanding.
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Gary-Ash, what it is about the blind describing the elephant by feel ?
You do not have to be sarcastic. This is not the place for it.
Harry
Toronto ,Canada
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Gary-Ash, go to Meyers Early Dodge Parts, click on Ignition, scroll down to about midway , look for 6 cylinder coil holder under dash, $205 , Just below that is the item in question, Key to coil holder 6 cylinder $120. View the item. Let me know if you find it
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Bloo, you are probably aware the reproductions co. which is a family operations in Australia have retired and no one is willing to continue it. Meyers Early Dodge is the agent for them in the US. I bought several door handles and other items from Cindy Meyers. If you go to the reproduction site , they reproduce parts for almost every pre war car. My 28 DB door handles in stainless steel (screw on escuchion) I just bought a key holder made by North/East Electric from Cinder Meyers. It is probably the last one on the shelf. I would consider having a spare. Originally it was pot metal. It is small enough to fit 4 at the same time in your shirt pocket. Experience has taut me any part that fits my car I find at flea markets I grab them. If not I will never see them again.
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Gary-Ash, good suggestions.
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I am a retired transport mechanic. Been all my life. Those valves are common on diesel engines like Cummins 903 and 250 /6 models Cummins engines are of a different poppet valve adjusting design. Stands all by itself.
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This piece of information is new to me. Dodge brothers designed their engines and give them to Continental to build One such engine is a 7 main bearing and crank shaft with no counterweight in my 1828 Dodge Senior. Generator runs off the timing chain. Journals are of small size at front and increase incrementally to the rear. This model seems to be one off a kind. The wiring is all armored covered.
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I have seen Chrysler, Ford, Chev, Pontiac and Buick woodies around 1947to 1950. My neighbor ha a 1947 Pontiac Woodie in pristine condition. The engine is a flat head . The horn is very loud. Can blow your shorts off.
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Hi Grimy, sorry for the mistake. The name of the grease is Molibddenum or something like that. I call it moly for short. My memory falters sometimes. Time to pack up from the forum. Good bye.
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Grimy Sorry. Poly grease is the white grease used on rebuilt engines and other applications, Is it called Polyurethane ? I cannot remember . It also comes in black. Nice for greasing rubber seals before installation. easy to clean excess spills. I know from experience it also works as rust prevention on parts stored for long periods. Not messy like axle grease. I used it to lubricate the lower windscreen rubber seal on my 1972 MGB. Helps the rubber face to slide outward. Better than soapy water.
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I mentioned on this forum before. A mixture of poly grease and heavy tranny oil to a thick batter like consistency in tranny leaves no leaks. The gears are constantly lubricated.
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28 Chrysler thank you. I was thinking about if any member is doing this thing as a hobby and charge potential customers for services. there are quite a bit of information on UTUBE. I would like to learn how to do it . A friend from Australia just told me he tried it and it was a disaster. ( He suffers from arthritis in his wrists.) Nothing wrong with that. It is the learning process. We learn from our mistakes. Experience cannot be bough at any price. I would like to attempt it myself but my hands shake a bit. I will be 88 on March 9 coming. I am hoping some young fellow on this forum will learn how to do it. It is sad the younger ones are shying away from learning the skills required to keep the hobby going.
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Does any one on this site does sand casting of small parts for for vintage cars ? The Reproduction fellow in Australia is retired and has left a vacuum in the hobby.
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Check the flywheel for clutch wear while the tranny is out.
Vehicle requirements (I don't want to look like a jirk. Everyone has their own taste and opinions.)
in General Discussion
Posted
Wood spoke wheels are not allowed on 400 serries highways in Canada.