dodge28
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Posts posted by dodge28
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Here is a pic.
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Does any one ever heard or have a 30 day windup clock ?
I have one, it works but looses time. There is no name of the maker. Needs servicing. I will post pic later.
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I bought brand new horse hair for a project and I have left overs. New cost 300 dollars a pound. I am selling for 200 dollars a pound. Contact me by mail ,
Thank you.
Harry
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First thing to consider is safety. If you are considering driving a pre 1930 car on the public road you will not want to have it totaled. Other drivers beside you spend more time paying attention to the antique car. No driver today pays any attention to hand signals. If you lift your hand up in the air signaling a right turn they will think your are giving "bye bye" Be realistic. Get some tail light assembly from later cars that use 6 volts bulbs . Run the wires in armour housings if you looking for beaty.
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Will a horse blanket do ? I think horse blankets are made of camels hair.
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Season greetings to all.
Some one kind enough to upload a picture of bumper bracket of a 1928 Senior DB ?
Thank you.
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At first I thought that rail was there for back seat passengers to hang on to when the car was driven at rough and fast speed.
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Now I know why the metal rod at the back of my 28 DB is called a rob rail (robe rail) No Heater in the car so blankets was hung there,
In the 20s and 30s kerosene lamps were lit under the oil pan in winter and box delivery trucks used candles on dash board to defrost the inside of windshield.
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I bought a nice looking turn signal assembly from the Filling Station. The switch does not care about voltage . Voltage starts at the flasher units, 6 volts or 12 volts. They come in various physical sizes and shapes and material.
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Did you know Dodge Senior engine crankshaft has no counterweights ? It shows in my owners manual. I do not know how to lift the picture from the hand book and upload it on this forum. I will keep trying.
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The Dodge lights assembly will be stamped "Dodge" followed by a number on 1927 and 1928 . The lower glass is elongated "not circular"
I own a 1928 Dodge Brothers Senior.
The picture shown looks more like from a Chrysler. Keiser31 could shed more light on that.
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Welcome to the forum. You are in the right place.
Every engine turns right hand when looking at it standing in front of the rad looking back . Remove the spark plugs and stuff the plug holes with some paper. Slowly turn the engine by hand and watch the paper pop out. That is the firing order . The gas pump should be a vacuum tank bolted some where on the fire wall under the bonnet unless it was replaced with an electrical pump.
The problem with used vehicles is you never know what the previous owners did or modified.
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I gave it up. the size is less than half before the pandemic. Many familiar articles missing , like new gadgets, and opinion articles. The prices of articles for sale on the online version are way out of line. Recently I received emails from a few companies trying to sell me parts. One is SMS who advertise on Hemmings Hard copy. I also get emails from other venders trying to sell me something. I label them on "SCAM". It a sign that we are in a recession and may take years to get out of it.
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There seems to 2 problems . A charged battery is about 13.3 or about. You may want to do a load test, The starter drive is sealed and has gears inside which do malfunction. If I remember correctly in the late 80s new starter drives were a common problem (made offshore?). Some repairs guys were opening and repairing them It is common practice to rotate the flywheel and check for wear when starter is removed. Almost every engine stops at a particular spot when ignition is turned off. The reason why the wear on the flywheel teeth is always on a particular spot. Just for experiment open an old drive .
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Starter armature bushings and drive gear bushings must be in good conditions, Low voltage will fail to hold the holding winding in place when cranking so the solenoid fork will not keep up the few seconds it takes for the armature to spin . Forks also do wear. Rebuilders often overlook that just to keep the cost down, A cheap and effective trick is to loose the terminals on the solenoid and turn 180 degrees and retighten.
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The one thing I can tell is look at a video on Dodge production cars (all 4 cylinders) from 1914 on UTUBE and see the all steel body.
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Bars leak works for radiator leaks. For cleaning carb pour a pint of transmission fluid into the intake while the engine is running, at about 100 RPM. To clean the valve train and engine pour a quart of GM transmission oil in the crankcase and run engine for about an hour. Drain crankcase and fill with engine oil of choice. To prove it remove the valve cover and watch the oil cleaning the orifices while the engine is running,
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I have a dash clock for a 1928 Dodge Senior. Made by Waltham, 8 day stuff. It has a long stem for easy reach from under dash to wind up. I am so scared to send it for repair for the reason it "getting lost" in the mail because it is very rare. I bought a book on how to repair clocks and repaired it my self. "Clock repairing as a Hobby" by Harrold C Kelly. One of springs was broken so I bought 2 from a company in Arizona , named something like time.com . I bought a spare Waltham 8 day for the click spring. The pin pallet and escape spring does not operate unless I give it a push, will work only for a few seconds and stop. The rest of the train woks fine on spring windup. I am taking a rest from this project. My problem is my hands shakes and unable to hold the tynee screws steady. I do not weld because of the same reason . I will be 88 years shortly.
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There is video on UTUBE about Dodge Brothers manufacturing cars since 1914. It is done by some historian from New Zeeland with other historians in US, It consist of actual pictures of the operation at the factory and data of materials used , like 50 barrels of oil used in stamping sheet metal , cyanide for hardening steel and testing uphill climbing test up a steep steel ramp. I do not remember the exact title. You may have to scroll Dodge articles. The complete process.
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Do it once and do it right or do it right and do it once.
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keiser31 method is standard practice of the trade. If you want to try something a little different to supplement keiser31 idea use a # 4 gas welding tip and heat the head just around the bolt head and hammer the bolt head a few whacks. Always use steady pulls on your spanner, not jerky ones. ( Heat the head, not the bolt)
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Hold the terminal in a vice at the lowest point, use rosin core wire solder, fill the terminal halfway and slowly insert the the cable . Keep the heat on for about 3 minutes. When the cable is first inserted you will see the solder will come to the top and attempt to flow over. Keep up the torch flame on the copper terminal and watch the molten solder slowly sinking down. At that point the molten solder is penetrating the strands. Hold the cable in position until the solder cools.
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Because the welding cable is pliable it can be used as a ground strap.
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Lap Robe
in General Discussion
Posted
Some were braided cords, It was less expensive to make. Horse blankets were usually made of coarse wool , usually from camels hair and fairly inexpensive. In the horse and buggy days in the colder climate a horse blanket was put the the back of the horse,(winter coat)