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Find a blacksmith who knows what he is doing. That bottom spring is a ballsup. They should have worked out the correct shape before bending the end [ which is normally softened prior to bending around the correct sized mandrel.] It is possible for them to open up the eye a bit, grind the shape, and reshape the bend. It may shorten the effective length a tiny amount but could be ok. How bad is the original spring you have. Picture!!. You could probably get away with ramiing JB weld ito the gap on the original depending on how bad it is. its not like the car is going to do 1000's of miles eh.

Bit of a bummer there. Cant remember what I did to mine when I reconditioned it 40 years ago. Must have been lucky as the worm was ok. New eccentric bush made and it was sweat. I probably made new worm shaft bushes as well. Filled it with 90 oil.

One thou per inch of journal size is the norm even for these old engines. Bad luck on that bore. Happened to me yeas ago, but only gouged to top of bore above rings in my case. Was going to do my own dodge engine with my boring bar but it had seized up through lack of use, so went to the engine reconditioner.

What's wrong with those gears? And how can you tell if they are not cleaned up?

One thing I learned as a mechanic was to never add a return spring that acted directly onto the throttle spindle. When that happened, it wore the throttle shaft and the carb body. Mount the spring as close the the throttle peddle as possible like in some of the above pictures, [ Mark's, Matt's, JayG's etc ], but also make sure it does not exert any side thrust on the carb.

I just took photos of mine before I realised my car is rh drive '23. Might help though but not easy to see where it is. Lh pic shows where it is bolted under the floor board by the steering column. The rh pic gives a wee idea of its shape near the steering box. It could be the same as the one in the middle of photo above.

That strap ground the starter switch to the steering column, to steering box, to chassis and then to engine. If you have a good ground wire to the engine that should be sufficient. As the horn is bolted to the engine, that is supposed to work, but best to have a decent ground wire frame all electrical bits, back to the battery and engine. Grounding through multiple connections and especially through paint should be avoided. An example of what not to do was demonstrated years ago by someone who had fully rested an old Indian. He could not get the lights to work properly because all parts were thoroughly painted. He then proceeded to remove that paint from all mounting surfaces when he could have run an earth wire back to the battery parallel to the feed wire on all electrical devices [ including the engine ].

According to Mr Google, 6 US quarts = 5.67812 litres. As that is the maximum recommended, it necessarily follows that that is what should be in the engine to start with.

When you put the new split pin in, make sure you put it in, in the direction of travel, so that the end that is bent back, can not be straightened out again if making contact with some foreign object, [ which should not be in the engine anyway ] while the engine is running. BTW, the latest one I got from Myers, has to pieces to each link, forming a roller type action when in motion, similar to picture. Not a good drawing though

I had some problem with this. When I first rebuilt my engine, I discovered the float would sink to the bottom, although it would stay up for a second before sinking. In the end, I got some other floats and compared the weights. My sinking float weighed 52 grams I think and another weighed only 42grams. The 42 gram one floated as per the picture, with 6 quarts in the sump. I suspect that so long as the float is above the pint where it bottoms out, that you may be safe to drive the car. My bottomed out float sits about 1/4 inch above the block opening, which is below that lower indicator.

When I rebuilt the engine on this car, I didn't redo the water pump, as it appeared to be ok. My mistake. I saw that Mattml had fitted mechanical seals to his car so decided to do the same with mine as well as fitting proper oil seals to the Auxiliary drive [ no machining required ]. I could not locate any mechanical pump seals in NZ like matt had fitted so contacted him. He offered to send me a couple. I had already disassembled two other water pumps to find the best option as well as getting a new shaft from Myers. Everything had arrived here in NZ 10 days ago so took the pump assy off the car and attempted to strip it. The impellor pin would not come out so ended up using an impellor of one of the other pumps. Just as well, because the keyway and pin hole on one of the spares was the only one which matched the new shaft. Sorted out the least worn bodies and fitted the two oil seals to the auxiliary drive, but had to take my water pump down to the Men's Shed as my lathe didn't have a big enough throw to spin the bodies because of the water outlets. Got everything back together yesterday but because of wet weather until tonight, did not test the engine till this evening. All good. BTW, the problem I had with the sinking oil level float was fixed last weekend. The float that was in the car weighed 54 grams, and the replacement I got weighed only 42 grams. That worked very well. Now with 5.6 litres [ 6 US Quarts ] , the float sticks up all the way and nearly to the water jacket. A big thankyou to Matt [ from Koo Wee Rup North ] for sending me those seals.

They originally had piping. Remember it's aluminium [ correct spelling ], and softer than steel. It will look nicer with the piping. Sounds like you are a panel beater.

One of those cars won the 2 litre classis in the 1951 Mont Carlo Rally. Not bad for a naturally asperated 1500 cc flat four eh. Is that yours matt or just a job for you. Hi Matt, looks like I have 3 copies of this book. Let me know your address and i will send you one. It only has black and white pic in it but shows a few of the different cars as well as history. A Javelin was severely modified for racing in Aussie [ the Wylie Javelin ], and is pictured in this book. Doesn't look anything like its parent car.

Its a Jowet Jupiter. Sports car version of a Jowet Javelin [ well sort of ], made in Bradford England. Only 31 came to NZ, which included a complete new chassis [ which was homed in the street next to where I grew up in Titahi Bay ]. Mead built some bodies and I think Farina built about 4. One Farina exists here in NZ just north of Whangarei. My first car was a Bradford van and then I went on to own a Javelin. Did a lot of miles in that car. One of the nicest original Jupiters is in the Southward Museum at Otaihanga. As a mechanic, I did a lot of work on the Bradford and Javelin. Learned how to make rod brakes [ Bradford ] work really well, which helped me to understand and get the brakes on the Dodge really good.