Max4Me

I am a recent TT owner and so have very limited Model T mechanical knowledge, but after reading this thread I have two comments to make. First why do you have a 12V battery if it's only for spark? If the 6V battery couldn't do it maybe there's more of a problem that hasn't been addressed. Or, you said it's a lawnmower-type battery. Maybe it just can't deliver enough spark? Second, you said it was hard to crank unless you took the plugs out. This gave less resistance and makes sense. I initially passed on the TT because it would not crank. I blocked the front wheels and jacked up the rear axle and turned the crank. With some effort I got the crank to move, but so did the rear wheel. It turns out that because the truck had set so long, the oil in the clutch plates had solidified making the trans stuck in direct drive. Could this be part of why yours is so hard to crank? Does slow cranking affect ignition? Perhaps this why it's been said to tow it, to give it a quicker, sustained, engine spin to promote ignition. I'm too much of a novice to know. Just food for thought. Good luck.

Very true. However, my understanding from previous owner is the truck was used as a farm truck originally, so who knows? Then it spent the next 50 years used to haul gasoline for a service station. It has a 300 gallon tank on it, so, 1,800 pounds of gas. Plus ten 5 gallon containers which presumably carried oil, etc. Certainly more than it's .91 ton rating, but definitely less than your family truck (whew!). It is due for a life of leisure in retirement and will get it.

I am so glad your friend is OK, but really sad about the truck. You are so right about the necessity for wheel chocks. When my kids started driving I also taught them how to change a tire, even though they had AAA roadside coverage. You never know. Along with tire changing instruction they were given portable wheel chocks to keep in the car. I also told them if the chocks weren't in the car they were to use a rock, piece of wood, or whatever they could find on the roadside to block a wheel. But in any case they were never to jack a car up unless something was in place to block at least one wheel. It made me feel good one day when my daughter said she yelled at her boyfriend for trying to change a tire without blocking a wheel, so she blocked a wheel for him! ( SOMETIMES they listen!)

Layden B, Thank you for the info. I covered the brake shoes and periodically sprayed the edge of the cap with penetrating oil, while using a hammer to tap lightly on the cap trying to break it loose. I used a small pry bar to apply pressure and eventually the cap popped off. The markings on the wedges make sense. Mine all have FORD, in script, on on them. I will have them welded. With the little driving I will do with it, coupled with the light conditions with which I will use it, those wedges will definitely outlive me.

Yep. First thing I did. The pic was taken before I tried taking the cover off. As for the wedges, my neighbor is a very good welder. He hand built an award-winning off-road trophy truck. He said he’d weld them but no promises. For as much as I’ll drive it, the welding will give me some time to find new ones. Thank you for your reply.

I need info on a 1925 Model TT. First, how do I remove the cover on the rear wheel seal so I can replace the felt washer? I have checked the Model T manual but not surprising, no help. Neither is Professor Google or MTFCA any help that I could find. I was told it pries off but I have not had much luck and don't want to apply too much pressure. Does it unscrew? I've not had luck with that either. See the pic with the white arrow. Second, the brackets that hold the rim to the hub have a letter/numbers on them, some on the left side and some on the right. Do they have any specific meaning, as in order of placement or....? Also, one of these and one on another wheel is cracked (see pic with red and blue arrows). My neighbor does TIG welding so can they be welded? If not is there a source for replacements? I checked Chaffin's Garage and they do not carry them. Much appreciate any help. Dave

You are partly right. According to Professor Google, the car is not American, but British. However, the speed record (104.65 mph) was set at Ormond Beach, Florida in 1905. https://autos.yahoo.com/blogs/motoramic/january-31-first-100-mph-car-ran-date-140455594.html

I recently bought a 1925 Ford TT that sometime in the past was converted to 12V. When running, the ammeter is pegged to the charge side of the dial. Is there a component I can install ahead of the gauge to have it read correctly? More important, I don't want the 12V current to burn out the original gauge. I appreciate any thoughts. Dave

Newbie to Model Ts with an engine question, UPDATE (This actually turned out to be a trans problem.) I had previously posted that my Model TT trans was stuck in high gear and no adjustments worked to free it. After further research I learned that Ts that are left stored for a long time tend to have the oil between the clutch plates get ‘gunky’ and somewhat solidifies, thus the plates can not spin freely. The solution is to jack up the rear wheels (and chock the front ones!) and let the engine run in neutral. Once the engine/trans oil heats up and circulates it will dissolve the goo between the clutch plates freeing them up. I did this for an hour or so on two consecutive days and it worked! I now have a trans that functions in all gears. I took it for a drive today and it worked perfectly. The research I found also said that if you store a T for a long time, store it with the trans in high gear. This squeezes the oil out of the plates and avoids the gunking up and the sticking problem. I much appreciate the help offered by 41 Su8 and Cudaman! Best wishes for a safe new year!

I was there in early November. You missed the story on the 1928 Franklin Boattail Sport runabout. According to the sign there were only 7 ever made. Further, a 1928 Franklin was the only vehicle Charles Lindbergh would accept after his record 1927 NY to Paris flight. Franklin was so honored they changed their radiator cap to a replica of the Spirit of St. Louis as an option (seen on the car in the photo). Be prepared to do a great deal of walking. The place is/was a winery and the vehicles are housed in three separate buildings spread out over several acres-one is quite a hike uphill. Still, an amazing collection of cars and other memorabilia. Well worth the trip.

Many thanks, Mark. You are right about little info. I previously found the engine serial # as an April 1927. A few articles I found said Ford started stamping numbers on the passenger frame rail in 1925. I have found none, so either the articles are wrong or my TT is pre 1925. A friend just gave me the Model T Service manual. Not specifically for a TT but has good info. Right now I’m battling a trans that seems to be stuck in high gear (direct drive). Just another problem to solve. That’s why we do this hobby.😁

Thanks for your reply. I actually did adjust the bolt that rides on the cam downward. It didn't help. I've only had the truck less than a week and the service manual just arrived about an hour ago. A little light reading is in store. Cudaman, Thank you for the adjustment info. I have a friend with a T and we had already tried some of the tips, but I think it's time to go back to the beginning and start over. A mechanic friend (not a T enthusiast) suggested draining the oil and putting in ATF to try to dissolve the gunk. Once unstuck, drain the ATF and put in fresh oil. Sounds a little weird but makes some sense.

I'm new to Model Ts and am looking for help as to why my just acquired Model TT seems to be stuck in high gear (direct drive). With one rear wheel off the ground, the front wheels chocked, emergency brake handle midway back, if I crank the engine the rear wheel spins. I have opened the trans inspection cover under the floorboards and the bands all look new and the springs expand and release correctly when the corresponding pedal is pushed. Thinking just because the springs on top expand and contract it doesn't mean a band couldn't be stuck underneath where I can't see, so I cranked the engine and all sections of the trans spun. Thinking the clutch could just be stuck from gunk over ten or so years of sitting, I lowered the rear wheel to the ground ( and with 3 wheels chocked) tapped the starter hoping to unstick it. The truck lurched forward. I tapped it a few more times trying to break it free but nothing has changed. I've read that running the engine to warm the trans up can help loosen the gunk. I have not had the truck actually running. My next step before doing that is to clean the gas tank and fuel lines then attempt a start (obviously with a wheel up and the others chocked). I'd appreciate any ideas as to what to try next.

Terry, The numbers on your page are for the 'T". I'm not sure they apply to the TT, but in any case, the serial # on my block is in the 14,xxx,xxx (14 million) range, putting it well beyond a 1923 (6,xxx,xxx). This may indicate it is newer than 1925, or have nothing to do with it at all. Aargh! Still, I appreciate your effort to share the information!

I apologize for the breach of protocol, but I have posted this question on the Model T site- 135 views but no replies. I have read that Ford did not stamp serial #s until 1925 so it should be there. Supposedly the number was stamped on the passenger side frame rail. I have searched and found nothing. So, is it 1) a model year earlier than 1925, or 2) is the number stamped elsewhere? I found a number on the engine block, but I don't know if the engine is original or a replacement. Thank you for any help!

I would like to know where to find the serial # on this truck. I’ve read it should be stamped on the passenger side frame rail. Is there anything more specific? Near cab, toward engine, on the top, side, under? Somewhere else entirely? As always, I appreciate the help offered by any of you! Dave

Cudaman, Thank you, and yes, wheels are already chocked, one each opposite front/rear. I will check out the website! Many thanks!

I have the opportunity to buy a 1920s era Model T that is in somewhat rough shape, but not a bad price. The body is in really good shape, but apparently raccoons have used the front floor as a community outhouse so I'm reluctant to climb in and press pedals. I am concerned about the engine being frozen (ran when parked!!). When I tried to turn the engine crank in front it will not budge. I don't know enough about Model T transmissions to know if it's in neutral or even if it has a transmission lock that won't let the engine turn. Can I raise one rear wheel off the ground and try to turn the crank? I'm willing to trade raccoon💩 for helpful replies! Yeah, no, just my gratitude! Thanks.

Apparently MSN does not like Safari. Works fine with Firefox.

The spokes look really good, nice and round, no wear or decay. In fact I almost wonder if they've been replaced sometime in the past. I'm interested in your repair method for future reference, though I'm a little leery of repairing them. I believe I have enough woodworking skills and equipment to make my own if needed.

That is the problem The wheel is round but the rim on which the tire mounts is not. I can get a few lugs on the wheel lined up to the rim but then the out of round lugs will not fit over the lugs. DFeeny in the above post gave an excellent reply on a possible way to fix this.

WhenI bought my 1925Maxwell/Chrysler I lifted the front seat and found all sorts of things: a fan belt, pliers and misc. wrenches and the cranky start the engine . But my daughter found the coolest thing: a Jan/Feb 1956, issue #78 of the Archie comic in a storage compartment behind the front seat. I thought that was cool, but kind of weird. Why a comic book, and why that one? Then my daughter pointed out it was our car (well almost) on the cover with Archie and Betty in it! I thought the last two frames were a little risqué for 1956!

When I bought my 20's era car it had an electric fuel pump and pressure regulator installed. It never held a steady pressure. I replaced the regulator twice and both times the diaphragm ruptured, which then flooded the carb. So I decided to jump in and replumb the vacuum fuel tank. I took it as much apart as practical, cleaned, new gasket, and reassembled. Except for a minor leak at the tank bottom (which was recently fixed) it works like a charm. I'm not a fan of electric pumps, but I guess they serve a purpose at times. I agree with zephyr-spend the money to get a good regulator or you'll spend less money time and again to replace a cheap one.

Thank you. The internal parts are working fine. The concern was with the leaky tank bottom. The vac tank sits right above the down pipe from the exhaust manifold. That's a sure recipe for disaster. The current repair seems solid, but if it fails I may hit you up.

DFeeney, I may have an out. By sheer chance I found a place in the next town that works on antique cars. Who knew?!? It was closed when I stopped by yesterday so will give it a shot today or tomorrow. It won't hurt! As a relative newbie, this is what I love about this site-someone I don't know, from halfway across the country, is willing to do what they can to help. I am interested in what you find out if you find your book. For the record, as you can see from my topic, this car is a Maxwell/Chrysler (no FEDCO plate, just a serial# tag on the firewall that says "Maxwell/Chrysler"). It was built in Canada after Chrysler acquired Maxwell Motors and rebranded it in America. But the Canadian cars were not rebranded until 1926. So, my guess is rims from a Chrysler Four would fit. I will follow up with your suggestion if needed. Thanks again!