Rexville48

1941-1942 Chevrolet 216. Those years had a reversing switch that changed polarity to the points each time the starter foot pedal was activated. The theory was to prolong point life. After frequent failures the switch was bypassed with a dedicated ground to the plate terminal. Note that points with a different part number are used in that distributor. 7L2 is probably the date code. December (L) 7, 1942

Thanks for the response. I agree with all of the comments about massive cutting heads on large machines with unique clamping capabilities for the correct joints used on our wagons. When I started researching the Porter Cable jig mentioned above, I came across the attached video. What intrigued me was how the home made sled could be used on a table saw to quickly index each individual cut and align the first cut on the mating piece. By limiting each groove and finger width to 5/32” or so, deeper grooves might be able to be achieved with lesser clamping forces and greater stability. A steady rest, unique for each piece, temporarily attached to the front fence could help. I’m going to experiment with the concept and will report back. Again, I appreciate the feedback. Thanks, Mike Sent from my iPad

Hello all, I’ve been following this discussion because I also need to make a few finger joints in replacement wood for an early Chevrolet utility vehicle. Fortunately for me, they will not show so square corners are acceptable. I came across this YouTube video that I believe has promise at a low cost. Rather than initially buying the flat-top blade, two stacked blades may suffice. I did find that the flat top blades come in 5/32” and 1/4” widths. The front fence may need to be more substantial as well. I’d appreciate your thoughts. Thanks, Mike https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P7WBeXRufWg

Thanks Mark, will do. Mike

Thanks for the feedback. Does anyone have any idea how I could do more research? They have been sitting on my shelf for a long time and I know they do not fit any of my vehicles.

These appear to be GM accessory wheel discs from the 40’s. Ones having the same appearance are shown in the 41 Chevrolet Accessory brochure however these do not fit 41-48 Chevrolet 16” wheels. As shown in the picture, they sit about 1/2 “ too high at the outer edge that I attribute to the wheel back space. Any ideas? Thanks. Mike

I also believe that I have a set with adapters that I’d be willing to part with. If interested send me a message and let dig them out for pictures. Mike

This is what the inside of a 48 made by Fisher looks like.

I probably have pictures of the divider inside of a 48 Chevrolet front door that was made by Fisher Body if they would help.

As mentioned, I have never gotten around to taking one apart. From reading the document, it appears they just used off the shelf, commercially available lip type oil seals in the appropriate size.

Several years ago I came across this document on the web that was apparently prepared by an individual from England. Luckily I copied it because when I just searched the web I could not find it. I have always going to take one of my junk absorbers apart but have never gotten to it. Hope it helps. Mike

This is copied from the 1963 Chevy II archive document on the GM Heritage Center site. Hope it helps! Mike

Mid 60’s GM. Note the similarities with the one in this eBay link. Hope the link works. Mike https://www.ebay.com/itm/185474778200?hash=item2b2f288458:g:ix4AAOSwGudis1sM&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAsFmX4fjxZ5%2FX%2B%2FDVD%2FFvy7BzjWGO00glAZ35ECIoDPLHmJwi8ml3bcoWuRXdM5AvkxG6JYOzi2FPX7nY76DT7DFfFKyQTCGlrs8JdgVMHngC6x0TtfACCvGRTgb1rUJhf8hsMSXLzL2YYoHOy4Smre0MiYZKbgKFhX48MXSpKOtxxvlnax3L1stBlHrGomOre6NmhqW0g3IvUiB7%2FdlPuf8kHRYxWFRfYG%2F3kmTCAP0V|tkp%3ABk9SR6a5pfbGYQ

Custom cut high speed steel knives to fit Williams & Hussey molding machine. Used one time to cut three 6ft. (18 linear feet total) quarter panel side rail blanks. I also have one new ash side rail blank that I’ll dig out and take pictures of if someone is interested. The 48 wagon is a Fisher Body but the profile appears to be the same as Campbell Body. $200. plus shipping for the knives.

Shootey, The door shown in the Hercules parts list is very similar to the rear doors on my 48 Chevrolet wagon that I had disassembled for restoration. Although my body was made by Fisher, I suspect both are generally the same. 46 Woodie is correct, part number 4184 will also have to be removed as the window slides out through the top. Also as mentioned, the for and aft vertical window channels should be slid out through the top prior to attempting to remove the glass as it allows you more room to tilt the glass and the attached window regulator. You might find that the window channels might have a tack or two driven through their back that will need to be removed to allow them to slide out. Attached is a picture that might be of some help. Mike

I’ve been following this thread with interest. In the attached video by Haggerty, about 13 minutes in,it shows finger joints being made. I hope it’ll give some ideas. If the link doesn’t work search Haggerty Barn Find Hunter, episode #76. Mike https://www.hagerty.com/media/videos/barn-find-hunter-takes-his-woody-wagon-to-woody-specialist/

Brendan, On a 37 passenger car, the gas tank filler neck is connected to the tank with a sleeve that unscrews allowing the metal neck to be removed. Once the neck is removed, the tank will slide to one side with barely enough clearance to allow it to drop between the frame rails. Since I’m not a Ford guy You might want to search the FordBarn because the process for a 39 may be similar. Mike

Thanks for the offer, however the originals that I removed are in great shape. Mike

Tom, Rather than attempting to scan and post pictures of certain pages, the entire manual is online at “oldcarmanualproject.com”. Just search “1948 Station Wagon Body by Fisher Service & Construction Manual”. If you’re unsuccessful let me know. Mike

Thanks Tom, I’ll keep looking for wider material options. I may also order a yard of the tonneau cover material to test for adequate stretch and its ability to be dyed. The 1948 Station Wagon Body by Fisher Service & Construction Manual outlines a very detailed procedure for roof cover replacement.

Thank you for the feedback. While I’m familiar with the basic appearance of cobra grain material you mention, even if was available, the original material that I removed from the Fisher Body Chevrolet has a much finer grain with a pronounced pebble effect as shown in the attached picture. Disregard the black areas in the attached photo as the exposed sections of the roof had been coated over at some point in the past. Tonneau cover material used for pickup trucks and other custom applications is available in 77” width from a variety of suppliers and seems to be closer in appearance. Other than the appearance, can you think of any considerations related to the actual installation?

First time poster on the woodie site but long time hobbyist with several open body Chevrolets. I am currently the second owner of a 1948 Chevrolet wagon that has been my latest project. All of the wood has been stripped, repaired or replaced where necessary, bleached, and has had several coats of varnish . Soon I will be needing roof fabric and am looking for recommendations. The original fabric, which I removed, has a very slight almost pebble grain and was burgundy in color. While I realize that I’ll need to use vinyl dye on the new fabric to match the color, my question is related to the fabric itself. What fabric options do I have? The roof at the widest part is 66”. Has anyone used tonneau cover material?