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  1. Thanks for the responses. I did replace the paper back with a plastic one to ensure the wires were seated correctly but there continued to be problems. Bench-testing just the switch with a 12v power sources reproduces the issues with a couple of the pins. Presumably there's not really much to these things on the inside, but newer-looking ones seem to have the metal tabs that screw into the underside of the door-arm plate in a different position and seem to have 10 pins that wouldn't mate to the '65 connector. Will take it apart and see what's inside. I see some sites that sell the guts for various switches, but none directly for the 2x2 buick switch, hoping maybe they look the same on the inside https://www.caddydaddy.com/shop-parts/switch/window.html?prod_year=499 http://www.fusickautomotiveproducts.com/products.asp?dept=852 Thanks, Tim
  2. Having some trouble with 1965 power window 4-button master switch. A couple of switches only operate the windows in a single direction. There was some crackling and puff of smoke coming from the switch. * Does anyone know where to find a replacement? I could only find one for sale on ebay, but dubious whether it would work or not, and pricey. * Is it possible to disassemble and repair, does anyone have experience with this, perhaps by cannibalizing parts from a newer switch? Or does anyone offer such a service? * Or has anyone somehow installed and wired up a newer model 4-button switch? Thanks in advance, Tim
  3. Thanks for the pointers will pull the lights and see what I find.
  4. Having some troubles with my headlights on the driver side of my 65 and wanted to verify correct operation as well as correct replacement bulbs. With the headlights on (switch in "driving position" per the service manual) operating the foot dimmer alternates between the top headlamp-only on and both headlamps on. Assuming then the top-only represents "dim" and both on represent "bright" (meaning the top is the "outboard" unit or Type 2 referred to in the manual, bottom is "inboard" or Type 1)? Is this operation correct? Turns out this is the behavior only on the passenger side. On the driver side operating the foot dimmer switches between top-only and neither (i.e. both off). Could this be explained by a faulty bottom headlamp only or do I have a wiring issue? Finally does anyone have a recommendation for replacement sealed beam units? The manual has them as bulb number 4001 and 4002-L which seem difficult to find. On RockAuto it lists parts number 4000 and 5001 for "low beam" and "high beam" Halogen bulbs respectively. Are these correct? Thanks! Tim
  5. Thought I'd close the loop on my door jamb switches. Ended up sending them off to Gordon Wolfgang to be rebuilt and they now work perfectly. Mr Wolfgang was also very patient and flexible when it came to payment, somehow taking weeks for a check to get from CA to him. Thanks for the recommendation and thanks to Mr Wolfgang.
  6. I spotted this on ebay which appears to be designed for this scenario, but have not purchased it myself. Also unclear if the added 1" height would be a problem or not. Pricey too. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carter-WCFB-Rochester-4GC-adapter-for-stock-air-cleaner-on-Edelbrock-carburetor/362081315039
  7. Are the tops on all these different Carter models broadly interchangeable (and would fit on an Edelbrock 1406), net the position of the fuel inlet that Tom T highlighted? And for my own clarity, if I'm looking for a complete AFB to rebuild, I'd be targeting a 3921 model? Are there others that could interchange with that? (source of reference: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Kbuick3.htm). Finally, since my car is a bit of a mish-mash I did check the manifold stamping at it reads B 1363782 which I think is right for a '65 401.
  8. Ah, interesting option for the 66 air cleaner. Thank you for the suggestion.
  9. Hah! I was thinking that but unfortunately I think the flange (?) on the wide part isn’t tall enough to clear the carb neck which is why I think someone created that pricey ebay item. Appreciate the ideas!
  10. Thanks Ed - But I think this (and many like it) are designed for the other direction - putting one's nice shiny aftermarket Edelbrock air cleaner on an older Carter AFB carb neck (I think they're almost always shown upside down, i.e. the narrow part should be on the bottom). I've heard other folks buying stock aircleaners and cutting the openings, or somehow affixing the base of a modern air cleaner to a stock one. I think path of least resistance would be to pony up and get a nice remanufactured Carter; it's on the list! Tim
  11. Thank you for the responses. I was looking at potential parts AFBs on Ebay, although seems a bit of a crapshoot in finding one that won't be too damaged (accepting I only need the top part), perhaps better route is to get the best one I can and to get it rebuilt. And yes, the Edelbrock fuel inlet is towards the back, so good steer there. I did see someone selling this adapter, but feel like I'd rather put the $50 towards a new carb. And 1" height addition would likely be problematic. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carter-WCFB-Rochester-4GC-adapter-for-stock-air-cleaner-on-Edelbrock-carburetor/362081315039 On my air cleaner itself - any known sources for a compatible breather / tubing / fitment for the cleaner snout? I'd rate my Googling skills above average but have failed to come up with anything. Thanks, Tim
  12. Hello all - Some questions about air cleaners. My 65 has a Edelbrock 1406 carb with your typical shiny air cleaner on it. Sadly I don't have the original Carter AFB. However, I do have what looks like the original air cleaner. So I have a few questions: Does anyone know of a way to mate the original air cleaner to the Edelbrock 1406 for a more stock look. If I understand it, the original air cleaner has a 4 7/32" opening, the Edelbrock air cleaner and carb is something like 5 1/8" . I've seen adapters to go in reverse (add a modern aftermarket air cleaner to a Carter AFB) but nothing in the direction I want. Can I verify this is an original air cleaner? It has a hose connecting the snorkel to a filter that pushes into the valve cover, was that a California-specific option? The rubber hose is cracked and coming apart - is it possible to replace these, does anyone know of a source? Right now I just have a push-in Edelbrock valve-cover breather. Is there any "harm" in not having this PCV connected up, other than fumes venting into the engine bay, or possible to connect this to my Edelbrock air cleaner? Appreciate any insight here. Thanks, Tim
  13. Hah, great find. Unfortunately I'm out of the particular fuel needed for this performance part, and I see that O'Reilly doesn't sell any, so will also have to pass until such times as I could find a local supplier...
  14. Final update on this one: I got my new relay, followed the instructions here: Worked like a charm. I bought a single-port plastic connector housing and inserted the black/orange connector in there to connect to the single prong on the relay. Had to get a bit creative on the orientation of the relay to avoid drilling more holes... the spacing of the holes on the 4-prong relay bracket differed to bracket from the original relay and the broken replacement but was able orient it in a way to make use of 2 of the 4 holes I had and still make everything stretch (the wire from the main relay to the connector for the aux was pretty short). Back in business. Now onto the clock, clock lamp, fuel guage, radio and antenna... Cheers, Tim
  15. Good call there, a bit of wiggling of the bulb and the light came on. I've now seen all my courtesy lights on! Door jamb switch operates all lights successfully although not just all at the same time, it seems to be the contact the switch is making with the metal as with a little bit of hand pressure things work. Progress, and thanks for the help.
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