Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

11 Good

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Thanks for the pointers will pull the lights and see what I find.
  2. Having some troubles with my headlights on the driver side of my 65 and wanted to verify correct operation as well as correct replacement bulbs. With the headlights on (switch in "driving position" per the service manual) operating the foot dimmer alternates between the top headlamp-only on and both headlamps on. Assuming then the top-only represents "dim" and both on represent "bright" (meaning the top is the "outboard" unit or Type 2 referred to in the manual, bottom is "inboard" or Type 1)? Is this operation correct? Turns out this is the behavior only on the passe
  3. Thought I'd close the loop on my door jamb switches. Ended up sending them off to Gordon Wolfgang to be rebuilt and they now work perfectly. Mr Wolfgang was also very patient and flexible when it came to payment, somehow taking weeks for a check to get from CA to him. Thanks for the recommendation and thanks to Mr Wolfgang.
  4. I spotted this on ebay which appears to be designed for this scenario, but have not purchased it myself. Also unclear if the added 1" height would be a problem or not. Pricey too. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carter-WCFB-Rochester-4GC-adapter-for-stock-air-cleaner-on-Edelbrock-carburetor/362081315039
  5. Are the tops on all these different Carter models broadly interchangeable (and would fit on an Edelbrock 1406), net the position of the fuel inlet that Tom T highlighted? And for my own clarity, if I'm looking for a complete AFB to rebuild, I'd be targeting a 3921 model? Are there others that could interchange with that? (source of reference: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Kbuick3.htm). Finally, since my car is a bit of a mish-mash I did check the manifold stamping at it reads B 1363782 which I think is right for a '65 401.
  6. Ah, interesting option for the 66 air cleaner. Thank you for the suggestion.
  7. Hah! I was thinking that but unfortunately I think the flange (?) on the wide part isn’t tall enough to clear the carb neck which is why I think someone created that pricey ebay item. Appreciate the ideas!
  8. Thanks Ed - But I think this (and many like it) are designed for the other direction - putting one's nice shiny aftermarket Edelbrock air cleaner on an older Carter AFB carb neck (I think they're almost always shown upside down, i.e. the narrow part should be on the bottom). I've heard other folks buying stock aircleaners and cutting the openings, or somehow affixing the base of a modern air cleaner to a stock one. I think path of least resistance would be to pony up and get a nice remanufactured Carter; it's on the list! Tim
  9. Thank you for the responses. I was looking at potential parts AFBs on Ebay, although seems a bit of a crapshoot in finding one that won't be too damaged (accepting I only need the top part), perhaps better route is to get the best one I can and to get it rebuilt. And yes, the Edelbrock fuel inlet is towards the back, so good steer there. I did see someone selling this adapter, but feel like I'd rather put the $50 towards a new carb. And 1" height addition would likely be problematic. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carter-WCFB-Rochester-4GC-adapter-for-stock-air-cleaner
  10. Hello all - Some questions about air cleaners. My 65 has a Edelbrock 1406 carb with your typical shiny air cleaner on it. Sadly I don't have the original Carter AFB. However, I do have what looks like the original air cleaner. So I have a few questions: Does anyone know of a way to mate the original air cleaner to the Edelbrock 1406 for a more stock look. If I understand it, the original air cleaner has a 4 7/32" opening, the Edelbrock air cleaner and carb is something like 5 1/8" . I've seen adapters to go in reverse (add a modern aftermarket air cleaner to a Carter AFB
  11. Hah, great find. Unfortunately I'm out of the particular fuel needed for this performance part, and I see that O'Reilly doesn't sell any, so will also have to pass until such times as I could find a local supplier...
  12. Final update on this one: I got my new relay, followed the instructions here: Worked like a charm. I bought a single-port plastic connector housing and inserted the black/orange connector in there to connect to the single prong on the relay. Had to get a bit creative on the orientation of the relay to avoid drilling more holes... the spacing of the holes on the 4-prong relay bracket differed to bracket from the original relay and the broken replacement but was able orient it in a way to make use of 2 of the 4 holes I had and still make everything stretch (the wire from
  13. Good call there, a bit of wiggling of the bulb and the light came on. I've now seen all my courtesy lights on! Door jamb switch operates all lights successfully although not just all at the same time, it seems to be the contact the switch is making with the metal as with a little bit of hand pressure things work. Progress, and thanks for the help.
  14. On my #2 issue, I made substantial progress: * The front lower courtesy lights had the wrong bulbs in them with the incorrect base, I replaced those with No 90 lamps, replaced the map light, replaced the 5A fuse and lo! I had light in the front, including glove box. And no blown fuse. * Rear sail panel lights had no bulbs. A couple more no. 90s and at least 1 of the sail panels is working * Lights come on with front courtesy switch * Lights come on when door opens, although a bit of jiggling needed on the door jamb switch, so something to look at there.
  15. I'm thinking it could also be the connector. Today I had a behavior where I had the Aux relay connector pulled off and headlamp covers open and when I plugged in the connector to the Aux relay with no key in ignition, the headlamps closed. The metal tabs in the plastic connector look pretty poor condition, I'm wondering if that hot wire off the main relay is somehow connecting to the black/orange wire to trip the relay. Anyway, I did order a new relay, seemed like $7 well spent (for the record I ended up buying this one, not sure how heavy duty but interchangeable part number as far as I ca
  • Create New...