BulldogDriver
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Posts posted by BulldogDriver
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PT139 is the connector with boot as part of the assembly. Console and glove box are many, many, many hours of reworking. The plastic used back in the day is quite the challenge keeping it from fracturing.
Ray
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Yes a “tee” fitting for the oil pressure senders. The indicator oil light sender is a PT64 with PT139 boot to also control power to the electric choke, dropped the EFI and went with carburetor instead. Gauge for oil pressure, voltage, and water temp is a Dakota Digital ODYR/SLX-40-1 installed in the ashtray. Put the water temp sender for the multi-gauge in the rear head hole and indicator in front head. The alternator is a 150 amp S12 unit with appropriate wiring upgrades. Needed it when the engine had EFI on it. Heat riser valve was removed and holes tapped for bolts.
Ray
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Side photo of mine.
Ray
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Superbright leds Rear Brake/turn 1034 red and Front Park/turn 1157 amber is what I used.
Ray
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#1034’s in red are nice and bright.
Ray
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Alan Grove bracket
Ray
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I’m currently working on a solution to open an original Air Cleaner’s carb hole to 5 1/8” that will be practical and not so hard to do that you couldn't get it done almost anywhere. Your only concern would be if the Quad was taller than an original carb.
Will post asap.
Ray
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Joe Jesser is the key guy. Best would be to pull the locks and send to him. If you pull the trunk lock it will have the original key number on it, as long as ‘it is’ the original cylinder.
I think he can set the cylinders to be the same key if he has all of the culinders.
http://jessersclassickeys.com/
Ray
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It’s amazing what can be hidden in the ashtray! All the original idiot lights still work and the multi-function gauge is bright enough to be seen in all lighting conditions.
Ray
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Pretty sure the sliders will only work on a Vintage Air conversion. If you download their catalog it has all of the parts needed for an install. If you do a search for Vintage Air on the forum it will give you more info then one would think, 11 pages was what I saw. A word of caution, the original radio would not fit with a Gen 4 evaporator because of the original defroster vents placement. Had to go with an aftermarket unit, Resto Manufacturing, but they have a weak display in sunlight. If you leave the kick panel vent’s controls in their original location, there won’t be any cables used on the control panel.
Ray
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Yes the sliders are an option you can do rather than an after market control mounted in the center console. Drop the control panel, remove the cables as they are not needed anymore but save the cable ends to hold the sliders to the panel, pick three positions that will be the controls for the A/C. I also moved the kick panel vent controls up to the panel so that is also an option. Very clean and looks stock.
Ray
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If you are putting a Vintage Air system in there is no stress on the arms. If your arms are still in good shape you shouldn’t need to replace them.
Ray
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Was working on a phone. Very small tabs to push, and meant 1963.
Ray
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Must be something on your end. I just did this.
Ray
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Mine were also reupholstered with the brackets and covers gone. Thankfully Gene had these. I also used Truss head screws to hold them onto the brackets rather then trying to source the plastic buttons.
Ray
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I believe Gene sold me his lat pair at the beginning of the year.
Lucked me!
Ray
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Email him and ask. james@bestoffercounts.com
Ray
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On 10/24/2022 at 5:32 PM, Dundee said:
Haven’t seen any of these wiring boots out there for sale, has anyone else?? Have a couple Tears where the push pins go and some small rat chews. Probably gets them to work but May require a set of rings and screws like the body end.
Look at BestOfferCounts on eBay. James was selling them. He also has a website https://bestoffercounts.com but the eBay store is the most current.
Ray
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Or use the hose that I suggested and you wouldn’t have induced another place to leak from. Hose was about $18.
Ray
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Mark 5/8” hose is what should be used on the Vintage Air parts. I’m not sure how your hoses are routed, mine are between the cylinder head and intake. I used a hose that steps 3/4” to 5/8” with a 90* bend on the water pump side. Gates #18075 -60.
Ray
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Mark that photo looks to be on engine side of the firewall. There should be hard tubing going through the firewall to heater hose on the interior side that will then go to the heater core fittings in the evaporator. If you don’t have coolant leaking on the interior side than at worst the hard tubing going through the firewall could be your problem. You should be able to get a replacement from Vintage Air. This is how mine is done on my Gen 4 unit. The hoses are less than 6” between the evaporator and the and the firewall fittings if I remember correctly.
Ray
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A photo of the leak would be helpful.
Ray
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All my high amp draw circuits are now on relays. Easily hidden in the to cubby holes on the drivers side of the lower dash and would not be seen by a judge. Separate relays for both low and high headlights and hide them behind the battery on the inner fender. Buried the wires in the harness when I rewrapped them. If you use wire ties as Ed suggested, its fairly easy to do. Take the harness out of course.
Ray
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Air conditioner muffler on 67 Riv. Please help
in Buick Riviera
Posted
Try this group. Call or email them.
https://www.oldairproducts.com/
Ray