BulldogDriver
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Posts posted by BulldogDriver
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Mine were also reupholstered with the brackets and covers gone. Thankfully Gene had these. I also used Truss head screws to hold them onto the brackets rather then trying to source the plastic buttons.
Ray
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I believe Gene sold me his lat pair at the beginning of the year.
Lucked me!
Ray
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Email him and ask. james@bestoffercounts.com
Ray
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On 10/24/2022 at 5:32 PM, Dundee said:
Haven’t seen any of these wiring boots out there for sale, has anyone else?? Have a couple Tears where the push pins go and some small rat chews. Probably gets them to work but May require a set of rings and screws like the body end.
Look at BestOfferCounts on eBay. James was selling them. He also has a website https://bestoffercounts.com but the eBay store is the most current.
Ray
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Or use the hose that I suggested and you wouldn’t have induced another place to leak from. Hose was about $18.
Ray
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Mark 5/8” hose is what should be used on the Vintage Air parts. I’m not sure how your hoses are routed, mine are between the cylinder head and intake. I used a hose that steps 3/4” to 5/8” with a 90* bend on the water pump side. Gates #18075 -60.
Ray
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Mark that photo looks to be on engine side of the firewall. There should be hard tubing going through the firewall to heater hose on the interior side that will then go to the heater core fittings in the evaporator. If you don’t have coolant leaking on the interior side than at worst the hard tubing going through the firewall could be your problem. You should be able to get a replacement from Vintage Air. This is how mine is done on my Gen 4 unit. The hoses are less than 6” between the evaporator and the and the firewall fittings if I remember correctly.
Ray
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A photo of the leak would be helpful.
Ray
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All my high amp draw circuits are now on relays. Easily hidden in the to cubby holes on the drivers side of the lower dash and would not be seen by a judge. Separate relays for both low and high headlights and hide them behind the battery on the inner fender. Buried the wires in the harness when I rewrapped them. If you use wire ties as Ed suggested, its fairly easy to do. Take the harness out of course.
Ray
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You can search my posts. I did a Vintage Air Gen 4 in my 63. It can be done using the original slider controls and vents. The only issue is that a Gen 4 will take up too much area to be able to put the original radio back in. I believe it is because of the defroster vent being in the center of the dash. 64 & 65 have not encountered the problem from what I’ve seen. Others have used a Gen 2.
Ray
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Thes guys have the best that I have seen. I was able to get pretty much everything for my 63.
https://www.steelerubber.com/search
Ray
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I had the same issue on my ‘63. Used 2 set screws epoxied into the lid. Make sure not to use too long screws so they clear the console. I finished them off with acorn nuts.
Ray
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Original weather stripping on my 63. Steele Rubber should have replacement set.
Ray
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All,
I'm sorry if anyone took my statement as being a dig at their pick for the hobby. It was my observation of how the automotive industry has progressed to what it is today. A GM product is pretty much the same from one platform to next now. GM has been an entity for more than 80 years and before the 70’s there was still a uniqueness that made it exciting to see what the individual divisions would produce year to year. I can’t get excited at what comes off of their “same” assembly line today. For me its been that way since the 70’s. And once again that is my personal opinion and should be construed as such.
My father and I have had over 100 pre 70’s classic cars. These ranged from V16 Cadillacs, Duesenburg, Lincolns, Imperials, if it was big and rare it was worth buying. Dad even bought a barn of 40 various makes in the early 80’s just to get the 3 Imperials that were part of the deal. I had 2 65 one owner Rivieras with less than 50k miles in 1980 and would still have at least one of them to this day if they weren’t lost in a senseless fire back then. Growing up in the 60’s gave me the opportunity to still see a lot of the great automobiles from that period still on the road and daily driven. Yes it has giving me a respect for their uniqueness compared to what has come after them. Drive a luxury automobile from that period, you’ll understand from perspective. I’ve never had much interest in “hot rodding” these things and only had one highly modified ‘62 Jaguar XKE. Was built by an engineer on the Corvette team. Very fast but the police looked for it every time it was on the street. Sold shortly after getting it from Detroit. Today you would be hard placed to find any car that doesn’t have power windows, AC, auto transmission, power steering, cruise control, etc.
The same applies for boats. I have had the privilege to have owned and restored them going back to 1911. Among the many, I restored an early 50’s 25’ Chris Craft Continental speed boat; one of only 2 ever produced with a pair of Cadillac V8’s. A Lyman lapstrake with a pair of Chrysler Hemi’s with dual AFB carbs. Nothing rides like these wood hull boats. Today they look the same and pretty much ride the same.
All the things that made luxury a privilege than and what I mean by “soul of the machine”.
Not so much since than.
Once again, my opinion and to be taken as such.
Ray
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Sorry but I see these ‘new’ cars as just GM products. Granted the 3800 is a good engine but it’s shared across multiple GM platforms. And I applaud you guys that stay loyal to the brand.
What happen to the ‘soul’ of the machine? Give me a Gen 1, 2, or even a 3. I’d even take my 36 Fleetwood with it’s archaic technology. If not just about any car today is like the other and if you close you eyes you can dream your in a luxury piece.
Just my observation.
Ray
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To get the radio mount plate off you need to remove the ashtray assembly first. Then remove radio knobs and the nuts and washers off of the radio shafts. Up behind the radio plate are 2 nuts, 7/16” if I remember correctly, need to be removed than, if the radio is loose enough, pull the bottom away first as the plate has 2 tabs that lock under the lever plate. If the radio isn’t loose, there are hex-head screws holding the rear to the frame.
To remove the lever assembly you need to get the dash pad off as the levers have 6 cables attached to them. If I remember correctly you can somewhat still drop the assembly down with the cables attached. To do this you need to remove the 4 screws visible than there are 2 nuts on either side up inside the dash. Shine a light in there and you will see them. The assembly needs to be pulled toward you a bit as it also has tabs to hold it in place up by the black trim of the dash/console. There are switch connectors for the antenna and courtesy lights that have to be removed. You’ll see them. Ignore the vent hose attachments in my photo, I have Vintage Air AC.
Ray
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If you have access to a double flare tool just flare the end out to a bulge and not all the way to a double flare. Will hold a worm clamp just fine.
Ray
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Steve, I looked at that option and the problem was that using a 14" base for the opening created a problem with having both the air cleaner bottom and the new 5 1/8" opening metal to conform to each other. To do this right you will need to weld it together. The new metal is so much thinner that the original and to bend/hammer the new metal will distort it too much to be useful. Your photo shows how much needs to be done to have the two fit. Just cutting the opening out of the 14" base is going to distort it greatly unless you have access to a metal nibbler or plasma cut which I'm sure is not in everybody's shop, definitely not in mine. even if you did get the two to mate properly you still have to contend with removing the plating on the new metal.
My idea of the pipe allows the new opening to be tacked in place, the base hammered to conformed to the new opening and finished welding without the opening being distorted. both have greater strength; the original base is heavier than a 14" air cleaner and much larger surface area to flex.
Anyway, the post was to see if anyone wanted to use my suggestion.
Ray
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Cars or BestOfferCounts should have that seal
Ray
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Steve the whole point of this topic is to keep the car looking as original as possible while upgrading things that are getting hard to find. I have 14” air cleaners and they are a compromising option. Plus to me they look out of place on our cars.
I know the options out there but what I’m presenting is another and I’m looking for people that what to get this pipe at a fair price rather than the ridiculous price quoted for 1 piece.
Ray
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Flat roll is a thought and I have a local guy that can put a bead/lip on it. Either way you will still have to cut and weld the air cleaner base. The pipe option is a cleaner way and in my opinion a better fit to the carb/EFI air horn. Also it gives more substance to weld and flatten the air cleaner base to.
I’ve been looking into this for quite some time now and this to me is the cleanest solution if you don’t have the “old” AFB horn option.
Ray
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Tom this is an option for when you can’t or don’t want to use an AFB top. EFI is an example or Qjet.
Just throwing the idea out there.
Ray
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Email them. They have always gotten back to me in a timely fashion.
Ray
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Rockauto.com
in Buick Riviera
Posted
Must be something on your end. I just did this.
Ray