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BulldogDriver

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Posts posted by BulldogDriver

  1. John,

     

    If you are going to an Edlebrock carb the better choice would be 

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-1913

     

    You will also need a tuning kit if you go with the AFR gauge.

     

    This AFR gauge will do the job quite well, been using it for several years now. I welded a bung into each down tube of the exhaust pipe below the manifolds to check both banks.

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/avm-30-0300

     

    The Rochester 4GC was also used on 401 blocks in the Riviera. I have one sitting on the shelf that came off of mine when I changed over to an Edlebrock. I also added a pressure regulator on mine. The Edlebrocks are sensitive to that. I don’t think the newer carb is going to improve MPG much. My improvement came from the overdrive transmission.

     

    The Martins have several articles about carburetors  on their site that might be worth reading.

    http://centervilleautorepair.com

     

    I’m sure others will chime in with their input.

     

    Ray

    • Thanks 1
  2. What Ed said!
     

    I’ve also researched the living crap out of this air filter. It ain’t going to happen guys. I personally feel the 3” aftermarket filter is the solution, though not the one I’d hope for but it sure beats having no solution. I’ve had an order in to several suppliers for almost 2 years now. It’s now become an amusement to get the “We can’t fulfill your order” email every couple months. It reminds me of how fragile the supply chain of parts for our cars truly is. If it wasn’t for guys like Gene, James, and the other that make the commitment to the hobby I can’t imagine what it be like out there. No that’s not true, I did have a ‘36 Cadillac before I woke up and let its next caretaker have it. 
     

    Ray
     

     

  3. I’ve had no extreme issues using poly mounts. You do need to match engine ands trans though. My Nailhead does have a mild cam in it, don’t know which one, it in it when I got the car so there is a mild lope at idle. Running do the road I can’t tell any difference from before and I drove it cross country, 3000 miles. 
     

    A positive thing about these mounts is if the poly fails, the mount is designed to stay together and not cause a fan strike on the shroud. 
     

    Ray

    • Thanks 1
  4. On 12/5/2023 at 8:49 AM, BulldogDriver said:

    When I have time I’ll post the parts I used to install a  intake Air system in mine. 

    Here is the list of parts I used in my installation of Vintage Air AC.

    671400-VUZ- Gen IV Magnum- Heat, Cool & Defrost Model.

    63016-VUL- Double louver assembly 11.375”x2.5”. For2.5”hose

    49870-VCI- $9.75- 2.5”to 3” hose adapter

    151102- Buick 401/425 Nailhead (1963-65 Riviera only) (passenger-side)

    04808-VUA- Double V-groove pulley, standard finish Sanden SD 508 Compressor, the larger compressor was strongly suggested not to use

    07322-VUC- Painted drier with binary switch and mounting hardware

    071130- Heavy Duty Double-strap drier mount with welded stud, washers, and nut

    03263-VUC- Condenser with brackets, 14”tall x 24”wide x .83” thick

    112002-SUA- SureFitsystem “Cable Converter” slide pot unit Qty-3

    StreamLine Aluminum Bulkhead Plates - pick what you want

    623013-VUA- for Gen II Super Smooth diverter duct for Super directs heater air to left side of car when evaporator is mounted to extreme right side. Accepts 2” hose. Qty-2 for redirecting floor vents further to the left and right of trans tunnel and center console

     

    Hoses for ac and heater would be determined by how you want to install them. I did not see any reason to use hard lines anywhere and also  I ran the heater hoses down between the right side intake and cylinder head. A 90* hose that reduces 3/4” to 5/8” would be Gates  #18075 -60”.

    Center vents you have to modify the V/A part. They sand down fairly easily and I used pieces of aluminum for the sides to hold them onto the center vent. 

    I would strongly suggest that you think about how you want the floor vents to be. If left as from V/A, the air doesn’t get past the center console. I made brackets to mount on the evaporator and on the driver’s side modified the V/A part. You do want to mount the adapter and hoses before mounting the evaporator permanently. 

    If do a search on me I think anything not explained here will be in my other posts. If not just ask and I’ll explain.

    Ray

     

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    • Like 6
  5. 15 hours ago, XframeFX said:

    I have a spare Red Crinkle Pancake Air Cleaner which I was going to follow your lead. No available elements, no sense now.

    I would've thought K&N to come to our rescue but they tossed their molds. Bad timing all around. No more custom filters.

    You can still use the original cleaner with one of the after market 3” high filters. The lid will seal properly to protect the qcarburetor but you will be sucking unfiltered air from the snorkel and around the lid and body which would give you better air flow. 
     

    I’ve one spare filter and will get one of the 3” aftermarket ones. 
     

    Ray

    • Thanks 1
  6. I seriously doubt that Wix could care less about a one off order for these filters. First thing is they are a foreign entity now, and have no vested interest in our hobby. I had a talk with one of Summit Racing’s buyer about a year ago and it was relayed to me that they had difficulty getting product from them. If they can’t get through to them, good luck being us. Damn shame as I just spent a small fortune modifying my cleaner to fit properly on an Edelbrock. 
     

    Ray

    • Thanks 1
  7. I’ve removed my motor twice recently. Both times to address transmission issues and I did it with the hood attached, jacked up the car high enough to have the transmission slide slide under the car on a couple pieces of cardboard. I made a flat holder for the trans pan out of plywood and attached it to a floor jack so I could fit it after getting the motor in place held with the motor jack. 1/2 a day each way by myself. 
     

    Wasn't that difficult at all.

     

    Ray

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  8. 2 hours ago, RivNut said:

    The pictures do not give the true look of the wheel. What you cannot see is the slotted cut outs in the wheel that give it its appeal.  In my original reference to these wheels, I stated that they were painted body color. Apparently, as you can see, I was wrong. But IMHO, painting them body color would really set them off.  I personally like them. 

    Thats all he sent me. I know Randall still looks at the forum but he said he doesn’t sign in any longer. Maybe if he has more he’ll send them to me. 

     

    Ray

  9. Yes I made a bracket that mounted to the brake pedal bracket. The switch is aftermarket with the plunger pressing on the brake pedal arm.  The bracket needs to be a heavy gauge metal to keep it from flexing too much. I rerouted the wires for the switch back inside after adding wire. Easier than trying to do it after rerouting.

     

    Ray

  10. I was understanding that 3.23 and lower used the same carrier. 3.42 and above used a different carrier but I read somewhere, I thought it was Buick V8 forum, that a 3.23 carrier could be modified to fit a 3.42.
     

    I also thought that all Gen 1 63-65 used the same differential housing, bearings/seals, and all of the brake parts. The carrier had a different pinion yoke for the 64/65 driveshaft. Tom T would know better. 
     

    Ray

    • Like 1
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