BulldogDriver
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Posts posted by BulldogDriver
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Never saw them referenced as 4036, only 4236 till your post. Shame they are history now.
Ray
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4236 is a WR9FP Spark plug. Tom T has referenced them in the past as 4236’s so he must have typo’d 4036. I also ordered 2 more sets. And they are put away safely.
Ray
5 minutes ago, telriv said:4036 were replaced with 4236. There have been two upgrades to these over the years with diff. numbers. One & the same. I've been using them for about 20 or so years now.
Tom T.
Or that.
Ray
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Nothing is available for the standard hole size in the tank. I went with Tanks Inc’s PA4 unit. Uses a industry standard pump. You can mount it in the same place as the current hole but best thing to do is mount it where the tank has a flat surface large enough to fit the PA4’s mount ring. If not and you go with the original hole best to get a body shop to install and weld it in place. I also had to go with their solid state fuel sender as the originals arm interfered with the pump’s tray. Another reason to mount on a flat area. You will most likely need to use a spacer towards the front of the tank to clear the plumbing on top of the tank for the pump, I did. You’ll most likely need to swap out the return line as it is 5/16” and most EFI’s need 3/8” minimum. The conversion is a fair amount of work if you do it properly.
There are several posts on the conversion, I did a full conversion; EFI, distributor, upgraded electrical system and alternator. A bunch of time, work and money and in the end went back to a carburetor dialed in using an AFR gauge, but thats another story.
Ray
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Here are photos of the kick panel. The lower edge fastening can be seen with the panel installed. The top edge needs the glovebox removed. If I remember correctly there might be one or two screws that are on the righthand side that are “outside” of the glovebox and you have to feel for them from under the dash unless the dashpad is removed. Sorry for all the junk in the photos, ran out of room in the shop for a clean photo.
Ray
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Jim,
Mine is an AC car. Yes there was foil faced fiberglass as stated. Was thin and I can’t imagine it did a lot. I’m sure the dynamat will be more effective in heat reduction. Don’t remember any extra jute but if it was factory, then it was there. Everything in my interior was original. My objective is to bring as much up to modern standards but keep the look as original as possible.
As with most GM production, things changed during year. I’m working with Clarks now with seat covers that are different from the normal 63 production. They are a 63 pattern but appear to be assembled like 64/65 covers. The padding is sewn directly to the covers.
Ray
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Contact RivCat and see if he still has the drivers seat assembly. He might be able to send you whole assembly minus the frame.
Ray
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Also pulled all of the original seam sealant out and put new sealant down. Also sealed all of the oval cover plates. One tube was enough.
Agree with Tom. Only Dynamat and what Clarks has on the sewn carpets.
Ray
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Same here. I covered all of the floorboards after spraying new paint everywhere. No rust, SoCal car with factory undercoating. Photos attached.
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Not hard to do. Just went through mine and it cleared up the problem. 3000 miles cross country with my knees up against the dash was no fun.
Ray
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If that is the case, then who is Car’s source for the mats?
Ray
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I don't see that as a problem in my case. Everything else is so light that I thought the contrast would be good. Their lighter color “LS” was too bright for my taste. If you can hold off for a week, I should be able to give you an idea of what it will look like. Finishing up on Dynamatting the floorboards. I’ll throw the carpets and a seat that has just been recovered back in. All from Clarks.
Ray
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Jim,
Im in the process of replacing my Saddle carpet. Clarks doesn’t have a direct placement. Attached are the 3 closest colors they have available and a swatch of mine below their samples. My swatch was taken from i place not exposed to light. The middle one is lighter then the original carpet. I decided to go with the darker one. I have a Sandalwood deluxe interior.
Ray
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I had concerns with the quality of mounts available for our cars today. I found this link in my search for mounts and that is what I used with a polyurethane transmission mount. The owner had to look for these mounts as he hadn’t had any interest in them in quite awhile. If I remember correctly he still had one more set. These should not fail, they are a locking design.
https://polybushings.com/pages/2219.html
Ray
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2 hours ago, RivNut said:
The radiator is simple to remove. Both hoses, and the support that attaches to there radiator core support, and the bolt that holds the shroud to the support bracket. Remove the support bracket and lift the radiator up and out. Then the shroud, clutch, fan, etc. can be removed easily. The only source that I'm aware of for a new timing cover is from Russ Martin or Tom Telesco.
Don't forget to remove the transmission cooler lines.
Ray
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If this was my car I’d check all the engine/trans mounts, make sure that the fan assembly is installed as per original, shroud is mounted properly before cutting the shroud. What good would that do if you later found out that the shroud was ok and some other part of the system was not right? Probably be buying the parts to fix the original problem and a new shroud.
While installing a 4L60e transmission, I had to check all of this because the alignment of the trans mount was different then the original Dynaflow and it did have an effect on the shroud mount. I ended having to use shims between the shroud and radiator mounts.
My 2 cents.
Ray
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A good reference for Riviera wiring is on eBay by Classiccarwiring. They have laminated diagrams for all Gen 1 Rivieras and show where the wiring originated from. FYI, they do not show all options that could be installed on your car, nor do they show the wiring installed for options that are not in use. Between the laminated diagram and the one in the factory service manual, I was able to trace all of the circuits in my car and verify a sound wiring harness with good connections.
Ray
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54 minutes ago, Seafoam65 said:
What you said makes no sense.......all the voltage on your car's electrical system comes from the battery. when you
disconnect the battery everything on the car has to be dead. Your vintage air system doesn 't have it's own battery generating voltage.
Agree with your observation. If the OP goes to VintageAir’s website under the ‘Builders’ area, you can download a copy of the Installation manual and it includes wiring diagrams. Should be 3 wires if a Magnum 4 series, 1 red to Positive and 2 white to Negative. There should not be any other wires that are not going to the evaporator or compressor.
Ray
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James at BestOfferCounts should be able to take care of this.
Ray
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Thanks James for filling a supply void that truly needed filling! My order is in for a full veneer set.
Ray
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1 hour ago, XframeFX said:
I hope Corvair.com will still do those fiberglass package shelves. I'm not happy with the cheezy flat cardboard deal I reluctantly installed.
For those door panels, best to not disturb. It deteriorates every time hey are removed/handled.
They were still doing the trays when I got everything “interior” from them in November. Get extra vinyl if you are going to match the side pieces going between the rear seats and side panels. I’m going to do the panel between both rear seats also.
Shipping was pretty steep, enough that I made a 3 day trip, stopping at BestOfferCounts in PA for parts, Clarks in MA, and then up to Maine for a bunch of lobsters. Still cheaper than having all the parts shipped, other than the lobsters!
Ray
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From my recent observations the only wood panel kits available are for 65 cars now. The other sources have gone away. If anyone knows of a current source for 63 and 64, please let us know.
Ray
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I had Clarks do “everything” interior for my 63 back in November. They no longer have a source for wood panels, but I was able to get everything else from them. The one thing that I had to send to them was my sun visors, they were the longer ones that they don't have a replacement for and the originals had to be recovered. Another observation was that my carpet and rear window tray colors weren’t available either so they had to be substituted.
Ray
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3/4” both ends
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dac-80418
they also make one that steps down from 3/4” on short 90* end to 5/8” on the long end
Ray
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http://www.oldbuickparts.com/product_info.php?cPath=27_405_407&products_id=7194
As the original ones. Count the number of holes. You will need more than one set.
spark plug question
in Buick Riviera
Posted
if you need to see it on a Bosch box
https://www.ebay.com/itm/174750104331?epid=78861461&hash=item28afeafb0b:g:r~AAAOSwzzdgifBj