TTR
-
Posts
1,694 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by TTR
-
-
2 hours ago, TAKerry said:
... I particularly like the early 70's Daytonas (I think thats what theyre called, they look like a datsun Z car)
Well, officially/technically their model designation is "365 GTB/4" (produced from about 1969 to 1973) and if I may, I'd say Datsun Z (is/was trying to) look like them (not the other way around). 😉
Here's a couple I've restored in past 20 years and continue to look after.
-
2
-
-
6 minutes ago, Rod P said:
To me Terry, anything 100 years old and older would be Antique.
Anything 50-100 years old Vintage.
Anything 0-50 years Modern.
But they are all fluid terms that depends if you are buying or selling, amateur or serious collector.
Then there would be dozens of sub categories.
Like all language there will be differences. As long as all parties know what they are dealing with, all good.
This ^^, in general aligns with my interpretation and usage of the term, but it’s like any other, often used reference in our hobby, be it antique, classic, collection/collector, exotic, restored, etc, which are all very fluid and open to individual interpretations by the user terms.
Also, in my mind, the term “vintage” instead of “antique”/“classic”/etc is less likely to get pigeonholed by readers.-
2
-
-
While researching for something else, I looked up the (casting) number in one of my OEM catalogs and the closest part number I found was 1367 422, a windshield division bar for '51-'52 Plymouth 2- & 4-dr Sedan, Club Coupe & Suburban. Finding near matching, but not exactly same casting vs. part number has been fairly common in mid-to-late '50s MoPars I've worked on over the years.
Hope this helps.
-
1
-
-
13 hours ago, keiser31 said:
Early Chrysler windshield dividers were pot metal.
Thank you, I didn’t know that. 👍
My experience with post-war Chrysler vehicles prior to ‘55 is very limited and most of the outside windshield trim on post-war cars in general I’ve ever seen have usually been stainless, hence my initial doubt, but at least I learned something new again.
-
Ironically, just earlier today I spoke over the phone with my best friend* (who lives in Europe) about this particular Hershey "mudmeet" and it having been the last time either of us attended Carlisle or Hershey.
Heck, we drove up from California in my at the time newly acquired 1986 F250HD 4x4 Supercab w/carburetted 460" (= 8-9 MPG !) with great hopes of returning carrying a full motherload of parts, but due to the weather, ended coming back pretty much empty. 😒
* Jon, he's the one needing/wanting that 2532S you found. 👍
I'll call you about it tomorrow or Tuesday.
-
3 hours ago, Vinny... said:
Here' the answer...Port-a-Walls!
We used to call those seat rim savers for Port-A-Potties. 😉
-
On 8/18/2023 at 6:30 PM, keiser31 said:
It is for a 1952, I think. The 1953 has a one piece windshield.
Other than OP wondering whether or not it is for one, who says it has anything to do with a windshield ?
Being made of die cast, I seriously doubt it is.
-
"DPCD" logo indicates Chrysler Corp. manufactured and the casting/part number first two digits 13***** suggest +/- 1953 time period.
-
3
-
-
Sorry to disagree Bloo, but in my experience, hinges similar to these can usually be repaired if replacements prove difficult to source, although results in some cases may not appear exactly like OEM, but if that’s not a concern, it can be done.
In some cases, one can even modify hood hinges from some other application to replace either missing or poorly/weakly made as OEM sets.-
1
-
-
3 hours ago, 46 woodie said:
Well Matt, explain to me why the Coker's lasted less than 13,000 miles and the B.F. Goodrich have over 40,000 miles on them with no noticeable wear.
While I don't pretend to be Matt, I'd say your experience is nothing unusual.
As far my experiences and understanding goes, all tire designs, modern or vintage, wear differently, mostly dependent on the density/hardness/softness of the compound they are/were made of, along with type of driving they're exposed to or intended for, inflation pressures, etc, etc, etc.
For example, the make/model bias ply tires I've been using in my PB Roadster for past 30+ years wear out on average at +/-15,000 miles (= in 3-5 years), while the OEM type Steel Belted Radials on a late-60s/early-70s High Performance Italian sports car, even if not driven very hard or spiritedly usually wear out in about 5,000 - 7,000 miles.
My late model daily driver Ford pickup wore its factory installed tires in little over 30,000 miles, while a friends '06 Ford GT original tires were worn out in less than 4,000 miles (most tires on todays super or hyper cars are usually worn out in far less than 5,000 miles).
+/-30 years ago I had few sets of a certain big name brand Steel Belted Radials which generally lasted over 80,000 miles and I suspect the manufacturer quit them likely for that very reason.
-
1 hour ago, Matt Harwood said:
I have purchased more than 100 sets of Diamondback tires over the past 7 years. Not one issue with any of them. Is my cross-section of experience greater than or less than yours?
Are you sure you're not thinking Coker?
I wasn’t trying to argue, just offering my view on “Never a problem” claim and as I said my experiences are from more than 10-15 years ago when no one other D.B. was producing WWW Steel Belted Radials.
I’m aware of and was involved with several instances in which people went through warranty exchange process with D.B. only to be disappointed with the outcome after the next set exhibited same “bleed through” problems.
At the time D.B. tires were produced by using some existing, regular (inexpensive?) black wall Steel Belted Radials which D.B. or someone else partially ground down one of the sidewalls and vulcanized an add-on whitewall layer on to it/them.Like I said/wrote, maybe things have improved since ?
-
1 hour ago, yachtflame said:
Has anyone here had experience with Diamond Back white wall radials?
32 minutes ago, Matt Harwood said:Excellent company to do business with… …good tires that you can trust. I use t. Never a problem.
I disagree.
While it’s been at least 10-15 years, I had number of clients and friends buying their products for years and about in 9 out of 10 instances they had same/similar problems OP is experiencing.
Some were worst than other and while in many/some cases Diamond Back warranted them by offering exchanges, buyer still had to pay for return shipping, mounting & balancing, etc and next set usually had same/similar problem.Most of my clients/friend gave up and either accepted the lack of quality or switched to something else.
Maybe things have improved since ?
-
3 hours ago, 30DodgePanel said:
I say if folks can't handle all aspects of these open forums then maybe the problem is in the mirror or maybe the batteries in their remote need changing.
And I say if anyone has a complaints or problem with eBays business model and can’t see the most likely cause being “in the mirror”, there’s no law preventing them to walk away from eBay and create a marketing platform to their own liking.
Claiming there’s no alternative ways to market and sell stuff is just beyond ….I sell variety of vintage car related items I reproduce and even have some listed on eBay but nobody’s forcing me to do that.
Heck, I even occasionally buy stuff on eBay, but nobody’s forcing me to do that either. I do it all from free will.And no, I don’t have a private jet to run around with, but if I did, swamp meet’s wouldn’t be on list of destinations I’d make flight plans to/from.
-
2 hours ago, auburnseeker said:
Well issues with ebay are never ending. Try selling on there in volume and get back to me. Every day you log on to sell or ship, you wonder what new "glitch" will you have to deal with or work around today.
Had a very good overseas customer yesterday contact me and ask me why I wasn't selling anything.
I gave him an item number to look up as I always have auctions running on ebay and have for over 10 years with no full lapse so I knew something was up. Even using the item number, it said I had nothing for sale and that item didn't exist. We kept going back and forth, he finally figured out, out of the blue that for the first time ever he had to select items outside of the UK. Never did before. Meanwhile he collects large rig literature which I sell once or twice a year. Spent about $8,000 on my items last year and because of that new "feature". missed all of the truck stuff I just sold. A full weeks worth. With much going for 2.99-5.00. He often bids $30 or more per item, so I probably lost 1,000's of dollars last week because of a new feature and a slew of items I will never have again to auction.
So ebay gets what it deserves. For the $18,000 in fees I paid last year, I expect better service and to not have new roadblocks added for customers to have to work through just to buy from me.
I was furious when I found out last night this happened as any sane seller would be and I'm a very dedicated seller. How many other sellers like myself have had the same problems with sales? The Ebay forums are flooded with people complaining about site and other issues all resulting in lower sales.
Like Peter said, why not take it up with eBay ?
Pissing & moaning about it here isn’t going to change eBays business model.Besides, if you don’t like how they conduct their business or make you feel less than appreciated, why not take your business elsewhere ?
Or are they holding a gun to your head and forcing you to buy or sell only through them ?
-
1
-
-
I would think any or at least most 4 barrel Webers qualify as rare and desirable, not to mention likely quite valuable.
-
18 minutes ago, Peter Gariepy said:
Do we really need another topic about how bad eBay is?
EXACTLY !
These and all other piss-n-moan types of irrelevant topics & threads have lead me to visit this AACA forum less and most of my vintage car guy buddies tell me these being the main reasons why they don't wish to engage/register to any similar car forums at all.
And yes, we're all middle age or older, but just don't enjoy wasting time on repeated, same old, same old pointless topics.
-
1
-
-
You didn’t define “feasible”, but if it means practical or useable, then yes, unless the tire is directional, which I’ve never seen traditional, bias ply, whitewall tires being.
-
1
-
1
-
-
On 8/6/2023 at 6:43 PM, Swear57 said:
What’s the best leather cleaner & softener. The seats & top on my 18 Cadillac are so brittle every time you get in, it’s like sitting on glass & it cracks more. The top hasn’t been down since 1970 & it would just shatter. I have been using leather soap & conditioner for saddles. Both top & seats are original. Thanks Jim S
100% Natural Neatsfoot Oil, not the blended stuff with words like “Prime” or “Compound”.
-
Is there any mixed set of letters & numbers (i.e. code) starting with DOT ?
If not, the tire is likely manufactured more than +/-55 years ago.If it does have the DOT code, which was implemented and made mandatory for all public road use motor vehicle tires in late 1960s, look for the last three or four digits.
The last two will refer to the week (01-52) of the year during which it was manufactured and the third last digit refers to a year (0-9) while fourth last refers to decade (0-3, so far), but the fourth last wasn’t implemented until the current millennium, i.e. year 2000 and after.So if the code has only three digit ending with numbers, tire was made prior to year 2000 during any decade between 1969(or so) and 2000 while with four digits, after 2000.
-
1
-
-
For what it’s worth, while I can see the allure of dual circuit master cylinder in cars not designed/engineered/intended for such, in past 45 years I’ve driven several hundred thousand miles, on two continents, with countless vintage cars featuring single circuit brake systems and can recall only one brake failure incident* in which having a dual circuit would’ve made a difference
I believe if one just keeps the car’s OEM system properly maintained/serviced and drives it by being mindful of its shortcomings compared to modern vehicles, the chances of accidents or problems are much lower than those experienced by people in their daily driver vehicles.
*I’ve probably recounted that story here before and while it was someone else’s (fully restored) car, I can partially blame myself for not having had performed any safety check/inspection or test drives prior to the infamous drive up to the mountains, but since the cause was so unexpected/unusual, it might’ve even slipped by my keen eyes/skills had I performed one.-
2
-
-
12 hours ago, c49er said:
That hose looks really old...
…and doesn’t quite look like one made/intended to be used for automotive braking system.
While there are varying opinions among some of my safety conscious colleagues about the service life, i.e. replacement intervals, of brake hoses & other related non-solid components, anything over 10 years is generally considered beyond foolish.
I mean if someone buys a vintage vehicle and it doesn’t come with documentation clearly showing brake, fuel or any other safety related system having been completely refurbished/serviced within 10 years prior to sale, I usually recommend, highly, to have all redone before any use beyond test drive.
More so if the vehicle has not seen regular maintenance and use, like those having mostly sat in “collections” or museums, etc.
But the main thing in this case was that nobody was hurt or worse.
-
1
-
-
1 hour ago, edinmass said:
…and frankly I’m astounded on what people sell and think are acceptable parts.Same here, but more so on the fact that there are people actually buying/paying for them.
-
To commemorate the first anniversary of the complete engine (276 c.i.) rebuild* in my PB Roadster, I took her for a spin to run couple of errands and get the accumulated mileage (within a year since the engine rebuild was finished) to reach tad over 6700 miles.
*Ended up spending far more time and money on it than I initially would've guessed, but hopefully now I don't have to worry, let alone re-do it, anytime in the foreseeable, 20-30 year and 50K-100K+ mile, future.
-
2
-
-
Couple of things to consider :
- Has (talcum) powder been applied between inner tube and tire during mounting to prevent inner tube getting “dragged” along if/when the tire might rotate* on the wheel (see below) ?
- Is the inside of the wheel bead lip designed/made for tubeless (steel belted, “radial”) tire ? Some wheels without appropriate bead design can “allow” tire to slowly move/slip rotationally on the wheel during use.
Smooth, chrome-like finish on the inside of the lip can accelerate/accentuate movement slippage, possibly more so if the steel belted tire is inflated to its recommended pressure.Vehicles OEM recommendation is usually for the type of tires that the vehicle originally came with, i.e. mid-1950’s American cars (like pictured) came with bias ply tires and usually had considerably lower inflation pressure recommendations than most steel belted tires made today require.
*And yes, I believe it's the tire moving/rotating/slipping on the wheel first, not the tube, but that could be easily checked/tested by carefully marking (perhaps with a Sharpie or ?) the relative (to each other) location of both the tire and the wheel right after mounting and then after few hundred(?) miles, to see if the markings spots have changed in relation to each other.
-
1
-
Another "Holy Grail" car heading to Auction, 1962 Ferrari GTO.
in General Discussion
Posted · Edited by TTR (see edit history)
With all due respect, but I think this ^^ might be perhaps oversimplified and somewhat inaccurate assessment.
Right or wrong, but here’s how I would characterize both:
Both examples are evolutionary designs of the same “Grand Touring Berlinetta”* genesis that started in the mid-1950s and while the 250 GTO (Gran Turismo Omologato**) was the final development of the 3 liter displacement for front engine GT layout, the following 275 GTB (3.5 liter) & 365 GTB/4 (4.4 liter) a.k.a. “Daytona” continued in same lineage.
I also think both can be considered being the “Alpha Male, top of the food order” production cars of their respective times.
As far as I’m aware, at its time “Daytona” was the best performing (handling, speed, stopping, etc) production GT road car one could walk into a dealership and buy.
* “Berlinetta is often referred as Coupe, but since it is distinctly different than traditional Coupe body styling, some of which Ferrari was also producing at the time, I myself consider/refer/translate the “Berlinetta” being a “Fastback”.
**Homologated as a “production” car by combining previous evolution of the same (2400 mm WB chassis & 3 liter engine displacement) base design to qualify them for the prevailing GT racing class regulations at the time.
OTOH, by the time of designing & introductory of the “Daytona” (& its predecessor, 275 GTB) international racing regulations & rules, along with Ferraris focus for its various automotive racing endeavors had shifted + it finance, manufacturing & marketing abilities of road cars had changed enough to allow larger scale production and while a very limited run of (15) competition examples of “Daytonas” were produced, the general interest in & popularity of GT class racing had shrunk significantly in +/-10 years between GTO and “Daytona”, rendering latter somewhat obsolete or outdated in that field.