TTR
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Posts posted by TTR
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Sounds like the engine could be internally an "Industrial" spec, not necessarily same as "Automotive" use, per se, and might not even be easily adaptable for latter.
Possibly different cam, crank, compression, rotation, timing drive, etc, etc, etc.
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17 minutes ago, Bloo said:
... Oil types for these old cars is a hotly debated topic, and you will get a bunch of differing opinions.
This ^^ is exactly why I suggested to stay clear of asking these types of questions here or any other similar forum.
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58 minutes ago, InsideTrader said:
I don't disagree with that but I would still like to go ahead and do an oil change. I would love to know what kind and how much oil it uses.
Factory owners or service manual is likely to give you the most accurate recommendation, but those are/were usually based on engine being new or used, but in good operating condition. There are other, non-OEM repair/service manuals, like "Motor's Auto Repair Manual" which can be obtained with various vintage's/year's and they usually cover 5-10 year span of most major brand American manufacturers, let say 1954 "M.A.R.M" covers everything from 1940 to 1954 Or 1959 edition cover from 1952 to 1959, etc.
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Before you do anything else, including posting or reading anything regarding regarding rebuild kits or oils, etc, I would highly recommend determining whether or not your engine really need a rebuild.
The next would be finding a competent machine and/or rebuilding shop experienced with engines of that era and discuss the process they would recommend or prefer, including sourcing necessary parts and/or who’s going to do the disassembly & reassembly work + installation, start-up & break-in procedures, etc.Such shop will have specifications or know how to obtain them for your engine.
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I would highly recommend staying clear of any and all "online" transportation brokers* like uShip, etc.
I know more than several instances in which individuals (whom I personally know or know of) have contracted with such operations, mainly due to attractive pricing, only ending up with experiences aching to nightmares, not to mention significantly higher costs than originally quoted, in many cases at least double.
*uShip and alike are merely transportation brokers, in some cases perhaps just individuals operating from their home (or basement) with a computer and fancy website.
Some may have never even seen an actual equipment, trucks or trailers used in transportation and just bid any requested service among the lowest denomination outfits.
In the last decade or so, it seems these "outfits" have increasingly become operated by characters or organizations originating from eastern Europe and/or former USSR satellite countries (Not saying anyone/everyone with such heritage is automatically less than any of us, but aforementioned example experiences don't provide strong confidence in the practices of these "outfits" or those who broker their services to unsuspecting public).
As for the price/value estimate, being an owner of a hot rodded PB Roadster for nearly 35 years and having been involved with vintage car hobby for close to 45 year, professionally restoring and working on them over 30 years and having bought/sold/brokered over 1000 of them over the decades, I would say only realistic number can and will be established by the person with money in hand making an offer.
Everything else is just pointless hyperbole.
Just because some random strangers on this or any other forum offer their "opinions" or some "price/value guides" provide some numbers*, doesn't mean someone is going to actually pay that.In short, any item is only worth what someone else is WILLING to pay for it.
I learned this already as a teenager, several decades ago, and have seen it being true time and time again since.
* Mainly based on statistical averages compiled from published, but not necessarily accurate or even real results of various (recent ?) past auctions of same or similar vehicles and may include (gu)estimated up or down ticks in general economic climate associated with or surrounding antique/classic/collectible vehicle “market” (whatever that’s supposed be or mean ?).
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IMO, unless the subject is something extremely unique, rare and valuable, unlike the ‘35 Dodge OP mentioned, easiest, simplest and not to mention smartest way to deal with a car/truck/etc intended for road use for sale without proper paperwork is to just walk away.
There are millions upon millions of old cars/trucks with solid paperwork available all over the world.Why bother with something ordinary with obvious red flags and headaches ?
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14 minutes ago, jdome said:
Simple answer is no. They replace fenders and panels.
... and if replacement panels aren't available, they consider use of slide-hammer pullers and copious amounts of filler "metal work".
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22 hours ago, GatorDoc said:
Hey guys,
I am in the process of restoring a 1956 Porsche 356A coupe. I am restoring the interior currently and am struggling to source this type batting(?). I suppose it is called batting but am unsure. It appears to be multiple colored scraps and strings mixed in with the predominantly grey material. I want to avoid foam and go back with something similar but have been unsuccessful finding this material. I have found “sheets” that resemble it but what I am removing appears to be loose.
Many thanks in advance for your time and advice.G
I'm fairly sure that's not original material used in 1956 in any car.
It's just like the use of modern, dense foams, another readily available/cheap stuff lazy owners & hack upholsterers utilize instead of bothering with authenticity and originality.
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6 hours ago, 1912Staver said:
No disrespect TTR, but you are making a very general statement. I deal with race cars now and then. Not for road use but cars none the less. Virtually no one has a Title for a race car. But people buy and sell them all the time. 100 % legal. What possibly could be the legal distinction between a race car and a road car ? Every now and then I run across a race car with a Title and that is a great thing. It opens up a lot of possibilities regarding use. But probably less than 1 % of the race cars I encounter. If any race car at all has a Title there has to be a way to get a Title for any car. Just a matter of jumping through the correct hoops.
Perhaps I misunderstood, but thought OP was looking to buy a vehicle for which the seller apparently has no paperwork & perhaps not even have a legal ownership of or right to sell, but which the OP could get registered/titled in his home state.
He didn’t seem to indicate anything about it being a “race car” or him having a specific desire to buy it for such purpose, hence my reply.P.S. I have bough & sold over a thousand motor vehicles (& arranged international transportations for most) around the globe in past 4+ decades, so I believe I have some idea what type of paperwork might be required for legitimate transactions in various parts of the .world by various respective government agencies.
P.P.S. I’m also aware of instance in which a vintage car with long list of “legal”(?) ownership changes/transfers on two continents was confiscated by (US) federal authorities due to it having been reported stolen 40 years earlier in California.
Perhaps the first proof of ownership or Title (after the theft) was obtained by using some roundabout way and registering it some State with not so strict rules ? -
2 hours ago, Trulyvintage said:
Unless the Seller can convey
legal ownership with a current
valid Illinois title in their name
you are buying/have bought
a parts vehicle.
Jim
Or possibly a stolen vehicle.
If the seller doesn’t have a proof of legal ownership, he doesn’t have a legal right to sell it either.-
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4 hours ago, theconvertibleguy said:
I had pictures from my trip up the Trans Labrador highway from two years ago and most of Newfoundland. If there's enough interest I could do a thread.
I for one would be delighted to read about your vintage car road travel adventure, but if I may suggest, rather than start another thread, just add on to this one instead.
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3 hours ago, alsancle said:
I have a friend who has a deposit on a Rivian. In fact, he was one of the very first in line. But because he doesn’t have a service center in his state, they have not delivered it yet. He is currently a Tesla owner. So we got to take a Ryan pick up for a ride. It was actually fairly impressive about 80% of the interior space of an F150. It has a smaller bed. With The extended batteries, good weather, and flat roads. It’ll go forward 420 miles.
Last June, I was given a (my first ever) ride in a modern full electric car/vehicle.
It was a new (allegedly) +/-$300K, top line model of “Lucid”.
Soon after settling in and take-off, my “chauffeur” (a friend and an executive at Apple who had the car on loan for two weeks in exchange for his feedback) asked “What do you think (about the car) ?” and my immediate response was “This is not something for real car guys. This “thing” is made for tech nerds and probably one of the last evolutionary steps before self driving cars become commonplace and eventually mandatory”, to which my “chauffeur” laughed and said “Yes, you’re right”.
Obviously, I’m not their target audience and wouldn’t buy one for $10K, but that Voisin in earlier posts would definitely interest me too.
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On 3/2/2024 at 6:01 PM, V16 said:
It was a glorious day to be out and about!
Please don’t take this wrong, but IMO, that bulky, add-on trunk doesn’t do any favors for her otherwise lovely shape and styling.
OTOH, if it’s mounted temporarily due to some extended travel plans and actually needed for extra luggage, I can appreciate it.
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While I’m sure organized group tours can be fun, I prefer freedom & independence for my travel and would rather read (sorry, but I’m old fashioned/-school) than watch videos.
I’m also more interested in personal accounts, details & experiences of other individuals traveling/vacationing (long distances) by themselves (or with their family or significant other) in their antique/classic/vintage car.
So if anyone here has personal adventures/stories (including car problems, mishaps & unexpected surprises, scenic photos & routes, etc) they would like to share, I for one would greatly enjoy reading about them.
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On 2/25/2024 at 9:20 AM, Larry Schramm said:
I have a friend that drove a 1912 Winton from Detroit to Yellowstone and back a few years ago.
I also have another friend that drove a 1929 Buick from Toronto to Washington state and back last summer.
That IMO is a long distance drive.
Could you please check if either of these gentlemen wouldn’t mind sharing details of their adventures here, preferably on this thread ?
We just got back about an hour ago from our latest, aforementioned extended weekend trip, but only managed little less than 300 miles in 4 days.
Weather was great, Joshua Tree Nat’l Park very green and pleasant both days up until 10am, after which it started to get crowded, but we were mostly done with our cruising & hiking by that time and left.
I always find it interesting how many people are amazed/surprised to see something so old (& unusual ?) in relatively remote locations.
One of funniest things happened when we pulled into one of the trail head parking lots and there was one of those Tesla “cybertrucks”(?)* with a small crowd next to it listening/watching the driver demonstrating/showing it off, but as soon as we parked couple of spots from it, the crowd seemingly lost interest & came over to us, asking a lot of questions and several of them commenting out loud our ride being the coolest in the park, which lead to Tesla driver quickly jumping into his and hurriedly taking off.
* To me, these “cyber trucks”(?) look like a DeLorean and some industrial size thrash compactor/dumpster got enamored with each other late one night in a dark alley or parking lot and these “things” were the consequence nine months later.
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11 hours ago, pmhowe said:
Wow, this sounds great!
But wait a second - I missed noticing which car you drove. Since you were hard at work on '50s and '60s cars, I guess you drove a '20s or '30s car to capture a real thrill. That would make the steaks, shrimp and asparagus taste much better. The Pinot Noir and single malt, of course, would go well with any antique car. At any rate. please share a picture of the run.:)
Car we drove (& will continue to drive today & tomorrow) is in both pictures I posted yesterday, but in case they (the pictures) aren’t high enough resolution, she’s a our 1932 PB Roadster shown in numerous other posts in this thread and is already idling/warming up outside for today’s adventures as I type this.
Weather prediction for today appears to be as good or better than yesterday and more than appropriate for an open car experience. 😊-
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Needed a little break from the shop full of projects, including a ‘56 Imperial, ‘60 Chrysler 300, ‘67 GMC and ‘72 Ferrari, so got on the road yesterday and drove about 80 miles to Yucca Valley, spent early part of today cruising (& hiking) in and around Joshua Tree Nat’l Park (racked up another 50+ miles).
Just finished the day with outdoor grilling of steaks, shrimps and asparagus which got washed down with some great Pinot Noir and spent early evening in the outdoor spa (seen in the background of the second picture).
Now I’m ready for a cigar, ice cream, single malt & stargazing by the fire pit (seen in the foreground of the second picture)
More of the same tomorrow, then heading back to home Monday and “back to the grind” Tuesday.Not bad for little R & R, including open vintage car driving in late February.
Life is good.
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As others have pointed out, diagnosing or testing wiring harness and related items, wiring diagram usually found in most factory repair/service/workshop manual for the specific vehicle, coupled with full comprehension of it, is essential.
In most older vintage vehicles instrument light switch is usually fed/powered by headlight switch, i.e. latter needs to be on before former is powered.
Also, in most older vehicles, power from battery to ignition switch usually comes through stater solenoid and/or possibly in conjunction to headlight switch and/or ammeter, but is often vehicle specific, hence factory wiring diagram is essential.
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17 hours ago, joe_padavano said:
The "best" filler is none at all. Metal finish until no filler is needed. If the thickness is minimal, then pretty much any filler will work fine.
Exactly.
Generally speaking, any area, however small square inch/foot wise, requiring more than 1/8” thickness of any type of body filler, is usually far from adequately metal finished, but if a person is not able to achieve ready-to-spray metal finish, less than 1/16” thickness would be acceptable.Excessive, i.e. 1/8“ thickness or more, use of any body fillers is usually a sign of an inexperienced amateur or cheap/quick collision repair center approach, not that there’s anything wrong with either, but shouldn’t be expected to last beyond few years, let alone a decade or two.
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4 hours ago, jimmy64 said:
.Tires had no date code. (Date codes started in 2000
Tire date coding started in late 1960’s as mandated by US DOT. Initially the manufacturing dates were indicated by last three digits (for example “… 239” = 27th week of 1969 or 1979 or 1989 or 1999) at the end of series of letters and number usually only on one side of the tire, starting with “DOT …”.
In 2000 the coding was changed to four digits “… 4507” = 45th week of 2007 or “… 1719” = 17th week of 2019, etc.
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Currently on going…
After long and laborious rebuilding of her engine & transmission, finally got her started yesterday and managed first few road test miles earlier today.
Will be doing some carburetor & ignition related tuning on this baby (‘72, single owner since new, 44K miles, original paint, upholstery, etc)
And this just came in yesterday, belongs to a very good friend who bought it new and wants to give it to his daughter who’s same age as the truck.
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On 2/12/2024 at 7:14 AM, jimmy64 said:
I can only afford a one shot chance.
THIS ^^ is probably the biggest concern you're facing and may suggest you can't afford this or any (vintage) car causing financial worries.
Countless people have spent their hard earned money buying luxuries like vintage cars without realizing they actually can't afford to own them.
Buying one is only the first & often easiest step in to ownership which will require much more spending than most realize.
Maintenance, (unexpected) repairs which any 60 y.o. car, especially one without good-to-excellent history (with documentation) will likely present more than plenty of, storage, insurance, registration, etc, etc, etc ...
I've always told anyone considering buying any luxury, including a vintage car, to ask themselves whether they can afford to walk away from the money they're planning to spend on it and if the answer is no, it's likely a luxury they can't afford.
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On 2/10/2024 at 4:50 PM, plymouthcranbrook said:
Probably The Best and most versatile tool ever invented, not counting the original concept preceding it for eons.
Inventor should’ve been awarded at least one or two “Noble Prices”
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Pontiac transparent cars
in General Discussion
Posted
Was either of them actually a fully drivable/functional car or were they display only items ?