John Jacques

I'm getting closer and closer in putting my Buick Opera Coupe back on the road again. This setback involves the brake clutch pedal assembly. They do not line up with the cut out areas of the floor plate. It seems that the whole assembly is positioned about 1" to the right. This makes the brake/clutch assembly off center of the steering column. What makes it worse is that the brake pedal is 1" closer to the the gas pedal (not good). I have attached a few photos with hopes that it'll show the problem. This was a project car when purchased and the brake/clutch pedal assembly was already installed. One of the photos indicates that the pivot area on the clutch pedal is almost right against the frame and cannot be moved to the left. I'm wondering if the brake/clutch assembly is from another model, not for a coupe. Having a photo of the correct assembly would help a great deal, or if someone has any thoughts I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks, Jakes

Appears that I have stumped many viewers on where this cardboard trim panel goes. As mentioned in the above listing "it sort of fit under the back glass", well with trying again to position it under the back glass it fits almost perfectly. I do believe that's were it belongs as it provides a smooth radius in the corners of the 1/4 trim panels. I want to thank everyone who attempted to figure this out for me. Thanks again, and keep those Buick rolling. Jakes

Hi, I'm back again with another question; I am in the process of installing the interior for my 1937 Buick 46S Opera Coupe. The interior kit was from Lebaron Bonney (now out of business) and came with the car when purchased. The interior kit did not come with instructions and the previous owner had passed so, I had no one to ask where this trim panel belongs. It is a cardboard upper bulkhead trim panel, at least that was written on the back side, and is 54" in length. When thinking "Bulkhead" I'm thinking front windshield area. Tried different positions around the windshield with no success. Moved to the back window and it sort of fit under the backglass. If there is anyone that knows for sure where this panel goes, and if it needs to be covered with material or not, I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks for looking!!! Jakes

Boy, was I wrong with what I thought that the center nose molding clips looked like. I have spoke to Dave in the past regarding other parts I needed. Think I'll call him again. Thanks for the photos of the clips. This is way I like requesting help from this forum. A lot of very informative people with extensive knowledge. Thank you very much Gary W. for the information regarding the different types of clips based on Buicks, now I know what to search for. Thanks to all!!!

I am nearing the final stages of restorations to my 37 Buick 46S and seeking information regarding the various molding fasteners. I purchase this project completely disassembled from an estate of a person who passed away. I have search the website of restoration specialist and found that they have just about any kind of fasteners that you may need. But HOW does a person know what to purchase? Especially the nose molding fasteners which are of different sizes because of the taper of the molding. Any information that you could provide would be greatly appreciated! Thanks, Jakes

My thanks goes out to Carl for providing me with the spare tire lock cup that I have been searching for!!!

Hi Carl, I do have the lock, so all that I would need is the cup. the less rust the better. If you could email me with your price, and payment method, it would be appropriated. Thanks, Jakes ..... jjrestore@aim.com

yes, I have called Dave a few times for this part. Maybe it's time to call him again. Thanks !!!

I am looking for one (1) fender mount spare tire locking cup. This parts secures the key lock to the fender mount. Below is a photo of the part that I need. Please reply if you have this part. Thanks, Jakes

Glad to see you're back Roger! I'm am the person that inquired if you had a spare tire mounting cup (example photo of round cup above). Thanks, Jakes

Again, thanks to all who have replied. A lot of good comments and suggestions. I also am a believer that less is better. I only asked this question regarding what is the name of the product that is seen on the auto restoration tv shows as not one of the guys that I talk to knows what it is. I have also asked my local PPG dealer and they also don't know. I guess this will be an unanswered question that I can live with. Thanks, Jakes

Thanks to all that replied to my original question!!! Although it seems that Rage products were the preference of a filler to be used, my original question still remains unanswered. On auto restoration TV shows they use a product of mass quantities to get a smooth panel/s. Chip Foose on Overhauling' uses a lot of this product. Could it be Rage products, I don't know, does anybody know??

We've seen TV auto restoration episodes that show them applying a smooth creamy like auto body filler over a complete panel and in some cases over the entire car. Very easy, and dusty sanding process to achieve a flat surface. What is the product that they use??? Thanks, Jakes 😁

I am searching for one (1) fender spare tire mounting cup. Maybe I am not calling it by its proper name. It is a 5" in diameter and secures the lock in place. Attached is a photo. Any help would be appreciated, thanks Jakes

Hi Roger, I also have the dual mounts like yours. What I'm am looking for is one (1) of the round lock mounts that holds the lock. Would you happen to have one for sale? Thanks, Jakes. jjrestore@aim.com

Thanks Bloo for the great advice. I did what you suggested and found that I did have 6+ volts at the + side of the coil. However when I tested the - side of the coil there was power at the points opened or closed. When I first started working on this problem, I made a new wire which ran from the binding post on the distributer to the points, because the original one was very frayed. I did not, at that time, realize that the wire had both steel and copper strands. The one I made was made of copper only, so that may have been one problem. The other problem was that I had only one wire, not two. Just now I ordered the two wire set, and expect them to be delivered in about 1 week. I'll let you know how it turns out. Thanks again, Jakes.

It's me again, Jakes. It's back again, no spark. In my last entry I mention that after installing a new coil, points & condenser it had very good spark. Well, didn't last that long. It was cranking and producing a very good spark. I thought that finally after over 20 years not starting (due to restoration and a professional engine rebuild) it would fire up. It tried to start a number of times, then that dreaded no spark issue returned. I rechecked everything that I could think of but nothing worked. I'm lost, again. Thanks for any help that you may provide.

Well, I purchased a new set of points and installed them. To my surprise the engine fired right up. Thanks again to all of your suggestions. I'm sure that I'll be using this forum again, and again, Jakes out. Marty I agree with you, if the old one can be fixed, fix it.

Thanks for all of your replies. The points looked like they were new, but I did clean them up by sanding and filing very lightly. Looks like I will probably get new ones anyway, and try again. I am aware that even new condensers can be bad, that is why I installed a new one. So, what is the best way to make sure you have a good condenser??? As mentioned in my original entry, the engine turns over very easily, so I do not believe that a starter draw is a factor. For some reason I neglected to send the above reply. After reading all of your replies, I located an old set of points that came with the car when I purchased it, I cleaned them and installed. BINGO, I had excellent spark, now I can break the engine in. WRONG! After turning the engine over a few extra times to make sure I still had a good spark, it failed again. Back to scratching my head. I'll head out now to the auto parts store and get a new set of points. After the new points are installed, I will respond, hopefully a positive reply. Thanks again, Jakes

I'm attempting to start (for the first time) a 1937 Buick Opera Coupe that I recently purchased from an estate. The vehicle had been in a 20 year restoration project by the previous owner (now deceased). The engine was professionally rebuilt and has not been fired up. The engine does turn over very easily, but does not start. It has new plug wires, points, cap, rotor, condenser, coil, and a rebuilt carb. My problem is that I do not have spark. The timing has been set, and am getting power to the new coil. With an ohm meter check the points (when opened) and there isn't any continuity, so that's OK. The distributor does have good ground. I'm pulling my hair out, can anybody help me out. Thanks, Jakes

I agree, looks exactly like the one in my 1937 Buick.

Thank you, that will help me a great deal in my search.

That would be great, Thanks!

Hi Marty, I am not familiar with Mr. Seybold, How do I contact him?

I don't think that all telescoping supports would be the same because of the difference in travel length from deck lids to deck lids, some opening more (or less) than others. If someone that has a coupe with this type of support could measure its length, that would be greatly appreciated. Jakes