John Jacques

I am in the need for a pair of telescoping deck lid supports. I do have the elbow arm type but would prefer the telescoping style. Thanks, Jakes.

MrEarl, no, I do not Instagram. With the help of Dave Tacheny, I did purchase from him a set of the spare tire covers. I received these parts yesterday, and for a very reasonable price. Therefore, my search for the center covers now has come to an end. However, the covers did not come with the center stainless steel rings, nor the Buick badge trims. I do have a set of the Buick badge trims which I will attempt to remove the small dings and re-use. I will be posting a search for these trim rings and for a set of deck lid telescoping supports. Thank you very much for all of your help, it was greatly appreciated. Jakes

Thanks Matthew, I already contacted Dave. He'll get back to me on the floor plate as well as the 2 spare tire wheel covers I'm looking for. Thanks again, Jakes By the way, my Club membership application is in the mail.

Thanks Larry

Hi everyone, another part that I am looking for is the brake/clutch floor cover plate. The vehicle that needs this part is a 1937 Buick coupe 37-46. Thanks, Jakes

Thanks for that info, mine's is a series 40. I prefer to purchase the correct covers. Therefore the search for the covers will continue. Sorry MrEarl, thanks but I am going to have to pass on your offer. Hope you understand.

Beautiful car Marty, looks like the covers are the same that MrEarl has. Thanks again, Jakes

MCHinson, on second thought, I think your right, I'll install the gutters. Also, I just printed off the membership application, and will drop it this the mail soon. Thanks again,

MrEarl, I think the covers are what I am looking for. Do you know what's the difference between 36 and 37, and if the Coupe covers are the same as the Roadmaster's? Both are 16". Asking price and shipping cost to 48001 (Michigan)? Thanks, Jakes MCHinson, thanks for the info regarding Dave Tacheny. I'll contact him, as I'm hearing his name come up a lot as a good source for Pre War Buick parts.

Thank you very much for your reply and the 1937 restoration process by Gary W. I certainly will use this as a guide to my restoration. I know now why I do not see these rain gutters in images on line. Think I'll leave them off. Thanks again for all of your help, Jakes

Thanks for the information regarding the rain gutters, I'll check it out tomorrow. As far as my other question goes, it's not the garnish molding I am referring. What I was referring to is what would go in the space between the door glass (when rolled up) and the outside door panel. And same on the other side of the glass to garnish molding. Is it a plain w/strip with or without chrome edging, or maybe a cat whisker? Hope this explains it better. These are the piece I would like to purchase separately, not in a set, as I have all the other door w/strips. Thanke, Jakes

Thanks for the information Pete. I'll contact Trenton. Thanks again for the quick response. Jakes

Hope you can help me. I am looking for two fender spare tire covers. I do have the surround sections, the inside covers (4), and the top trims. All that I am looking for is the outer covers. I do realize that a person made not want to sell the parts individually but, there maybe other that just have the outer covers. If the price is right, I could go either way. Thanks, Jakes

I am in the process of restoring a 1937 Buick series 40 Opera Coupe. I purchased the vehicle from an estate sale. Currently I am reinstalling the door hardware and have door rain gutters to install. I tried researching how to install them, but, I cannot find any information. I only recently identified them through a sale listing; otherwise, I had no idea what to call them. Please take a look at the attached photos and help me out. Another question I have is: are there any inner and outer belt line door w/strips? If so, where could I purchase just these w/strips without buying a whole 6,8,10, piece set? Thanks, Jakes

Bob, what I ended up doing was purchasing a water temp gauge for a 1951 GMC truck for $68.00, and interchanging the face plate with my defective water gauge. The unit I purchased was new and did not include the continious spiral wire protector. It did, however, include a short protective covering in areas where a bend was required. Suggestion to anyone else that goes this route, be sure to purchase a water temp gauge that has the correct length of tubing. Gauges come in different tube lengths. Thanks for the response.

In reading the forums regarding Bob Jones, who is reproducing stainless steel grills for the 1937 Buick, I have not been successful in contacting him. If anyone knows if Mr. Jones is still reproducing theses grills, or know how I could obtain a pair of the grills, please respond to this forum. Thank you in advance, John

Thanks Carl, I'm just starting this project and have a lot of time before this gauge is needed. I really do appreciate your replying to this topic, and am sorry to hear that I wouldn't be able to purchase the gauge from you. I'll keep in mind your recommendation to contact Dave. Thanks again, John

Thanks Carl, I agree with you 100%, that's a crazy price they are asking. They don't even provide a photo of the reverse side (the important stuff). Could you please send me photos of the one you mentioned and your asking price?

Looking for a 1937 Buick Coupe water temp gauge unit. Must be in good working condition with nice face plate.

PROBLEM SOLVED!!! Before revealing the cure, I will start off by telling you what was the cause of why the distributor would not drop that 3/8" to seat properly. Previously, I mentioned that the distributor was originally removed to prime the oil pump and reinstalled without out any problems. Well, after checking out You Tube regarding priming the oil pump and finding one video that used a battery operated screw gun with a flat screwdriver tip to fit in the oil pump shaft, I tried that. It worked very well (better than what I tried prior to rotate the oil pump) BUT, due to the poor fit of the screwdriver tip, it caused the slot in the oil pump shaft to spread wider and not allowing the distributor shaft gear to drop into the oil pump shaft. I then took a 1/2" ID hardened tube, tapered the inside edge (allowing it to go over the distorted end of the oil pump shaft) and gently tapped it down to squeeze the OD dimension of the oil pump shaft into its' original size. BINGO!!, the distributor fell into position like it should. LESSON LEARNED! Again, I want to thank everyone for all of your suggestions, Jakes

Put this project on the back burner for now, as I have had many mechanic attempt to install this distributor with no success. All were stumped, and had no definite answers. Attempts to push down on the distributor while rotating the engine were also done. Just to let every know, I still have the problem. If I ever find the cure (which I will), I'll certainly let you know. Thanks again for all of your suggestions. Jakes

Thanks, but no broken or damages to shafts.

Thanks again to everyone who has responded. Here's my latest developments: Had a buddy apply slight downward pressure on the distributor while I very slowly turned the crankshaft by hand. Resulting in no distributor dropping in place. Then I removed the distributor gear and set it on the oil pump shaft. What I found out was that the top of the distributor gear meshed low on the cam gear (close to center). My thinking now is that the oil pump shaft somehow dropped deeper in the oil pump. This new thinking of mine could explain why the distributor pin is not engaged in the oil pump shaft, rather just resting on top of the oil pump shaft. See photo below. What do you think?

Tried sending an addition photo of distributor but not allowed me to send.

Paul, Dale, James, thanks, you all have good idea's, that got me thinking. Perhaps what James stated that it wasn't until he started his engine is when his distributor dropped. Well maybe (and from how my distributor stops dropping short of seating ) the distributor gear and the cam gear just aren't lined up correctly. I'm not going to start the engine, but I will slowing hand crank the engine and give the two gears a chance to mesh correctly. Keep your fingers crossed for me. Dale attached are the photos you requested. Thanks, Jakes photo 1 - oil pump shaft photo2 - tape on top of oil pump shaft -3" photo 3- tape in slot of oil pump - 3-1/2"