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Yes I have admired some of your work. I could not afford trying to put an original carb system together. Missing parts and broken parts when I found it. Also no sense using up important parts I did have on mine since it is no show vehicle. I rather horse trade those parts where someone gets better use. I really would have expected to find more generators out there since it seems they were the same in 31 and 32 on all models. I am still a bit confused on the main helical drive gear that engages the cam gear. The timing gear on the 50 series is 1 and 1/8 " and on the other series it is 1 and 1/4. To me this means there must be two different helical gears available for a 940 T generator to maintain timing for both. Anyone know if I am correct here? Basically I'm saying a 940 T from a fifty series will look correct in every way but would never meet distributor timing at 0 and 180 degrees repeatable in any other series. Tony And frankly I am not sure the timing gear they are talking about. I know no gear that size in the engine or gen or dist. Unless they mean the width of the helical drive gear.

Hi Dave , a fascinating setup and I am familiar. Although I was talking about distributor gears, when I saw the parts list that seemed to begin with "generator 940 T1" I guess I thought the helical gear on the front of the gen. would also be in that list. I don't have any manuals on this so I have to ask here to solve questions in my mind. Or use mathematics if possible. I was trying to confirm my belief that the drive and driven dist. gears are the same in both generator that I have. Member input verified they are the same. I concluded that they would have to be a 3:1 ratio and they both are. Leaving the only other gear to consider for correct timing being the helical on the front. I would then have to conclude that Buick changed the helical gear depending on application. I would be interest in how many different helical gears were utilized with this gen. , part numbers and did they list them by no. of teeth for identification. I'm just trying to get backup parts together in case I break down in my travels. Extra Gen. ,Dist, Water pump, starter all that stuff. Tony

Thanks to all, great info. I am a bit surprised that in the list from Pete the main drive gear that engages the cam gear is not listed. Did that have options based on engine size? Are they available? Tony

These used to be listed with Mac but not sure if any are still available. Also I would appreciate any info on all gears pertaining to the generator. My understanding is the generators may be the same with the exception of the rate of spin produced through these gears. Thanks Tony

Mr. Earl Where is that BUICK Station you have pictured in your posts? Tony

It sure would Mr Earl. Rebuilding my generator now and in a week or so I plan to drive it to the original "Johnnies Garage" and take some photos. Tony

Ya know what Jake ? Sometimes I really get lucky. Maybe I have good karma. Two roads over from my house on a road rarely traveled I found it laying in the weeds. Still has the Manley Crane tag on it. Yada ,yada, ...i inquired and found the gentleman that owned it was also in education at a point in his life and with my great appreciation and a small token to his friend to help load it , it was mine. Small town in America ! Can't beat it.

Well I am back. Hope you are all well and if not for covid I had hoped one day to meet you all. We got a bit more done with the only disappointment being that the original students that began the project have since graduated and did not get to see completion....whenever that will be if ever. The "originals" really had to fight against the possibility their work would be pointless since they did see the engine when removed and never believed it would ever run again. Back then I wasn't sure myself. But as mentioned in earlier posts younger generations don't seem to have the same mechanical understanding as us ole folks. I did run into a few out in the community and showed them video of me driving the it and they actually lit up as if they can now say it was not a waste of their efforts. Still not done but it is now titled, registered , insured and legal. I will drive it locally to check for issues but if all goes well i am hoping to get it to a show in Allentown and Hershey this year. If anyone has some common concerns to keep in mind with making those long drives let me know. Thanks Tony

Hi Donnie Funds received. Thank you. Tony

Donnie on it's way. I just threw both in the package, no need to return one. Maybe you will have the opportunity to help someone else out with the one you don't use. Good luck Tony

Hey Donnie Just need to show you something. Never noticed before but the openings look to be two different sizes. Not sure if it is wear or was front door to back door. Check this out and let me know. Marked 1 and 2

Hey Donnie My picture is not great. Can you tell me which one. There are the first two on the left that are complete. I guess one looks silver. The first one is looking at the back , the second is looking at the front, the third and fourth parts were together but the guts were broken and taken out. So from left to right lets call them 1 - 2 - 3 & 4. My guess is you want #2 the one looking at the front. Just send me your address here or in a PM. When you get it just send me the shipping when you get a chance. Tony

Here are some parts from my 1932 Buick 97 I will not be using. There is also a spark plug cover from a different year I picked up but it was too short for my 344. The stuff is rough but maybe it can help someone. First the part i think is a heat riser or has something to do with that is cracked and butterfly is rotted and frozen. All the pieces of the cracked housing are here except a very small piece that completes the outer of a bolt hole. Half the hole is on the casting. #124870? a number 7 above. There is the oil cooler parts , the tin is rotted through but I know i can restore it so I'm sure others can too. The inside unit has a pin hole somewhere in the core. Fuel sending obviously does not work. Rod ends for the brake adjustment rods, one has a short stud(broke off ) There are door latch parts , they are pitted. I was going to paint them to save on chroming but decided to just make new entire doors with modern latches. The spark plug cover in very good shape just not sure the year or engine but I can tell you it is not for mine. Air cleaner not bad but does have some pitting and a few vents are not perfect. PM if you can use something. The Buick oil cooler tin....If i were to restore it back to near perfect what could it be worth? FUEL SENDING UNIT AND THE TWO COMPLETE DOOR LATCHES ARE GONE. Thanks Tony

32Buick67 >>>>>> OH YES IT HELPS ! Thanks, thanks to all. Tony

Harry it appears at least your center case is very close to mine. The thermal switch with the resistor wire looks identical to mine, i just do not have the resistor wire. Can you confirm which wire goes to your third adjustable brush. Is it a field wire or the wire to the cutout And thanks for everyone's input it my get me my output . Tony

Not sure if the information I want is listed anywhere. I have the 1932 Buick Spec. and Adj. book but I was looking for some better info. Some of you may know this generator it is a 940 T1. Some say if you touch a positive lead to the 3rd brush wire and ground the case it will spin like a motor. If it spins the generator is good. That does not tell me how good. The generator is a three brush with an internal thermo switch (contact points with resistor bridge) mounted to ground. It has a cutout switch mounted to the case exterior. Two field windings in series in the case. Now to my questions. I never had the resistor that bridged the thermo switch. What is/was it's OHMS value? What is the correct/good OHMS resistance of the field windings? A wire grounds the brushes mounting plate to the main part of the thermo switch which best I can tell allows either direct ground when cold and resistor ground when hot. If the main brushes are on a plate already grounded to the case by contact how does the thermo switch even play a part? Don't both main brushes have a direct path to ground just by contact of the mounting plate? If there is a generator schematic out there I would love to see it. Thanks Tony

Please inform me on the advantage of the 7018 AC rods. I used a MIG with standard wire and C-25 gas but would still like to know about those rods. Tony

This in mine. VIN 1C3CJ51E Normal wear and tear. Lower body in front of rear tires repaired at some time prior to my ownership. Runs and drives and stops well. Turbo is working fine. 128K miles. Automatic In NE PA. Had also listed it on a Market Place that I don't know if I am allowed to mention. $1950.00

The vin is on the dash and door sticker and they match. The car shows no signs of front end damage so just assuming the hood is original. Here is the sticker. Hood color and underside colors are correct to the car. I see no signs someone turned this into a turbo from a normally aspirated. Does this sticker help identify anything? Tony

Personally I did repair a cracked exhaust manifold. I followed recommendations from several forum and posts and modified as I thought necessary. 1. I drilled 3/16 holes at each end of the crack. 2. "V" grooved the crack at a fairly steep angle. About 1/4 inch wide. I used a cut off wheel. 3. My goal was to open the crack to about 1/32 of an inch at the bottom hoping the weld may catch on those edges. 4. I purchased a large galvanized oval feed bucket or tub. I filled it 2/3 with sand and put it into an out-door fire place / smoker. Yeah I know where are you going to find that? I got that sand pretty hot. Took about 2 hours. 5. I had access to a pizza oven. I heated the manifold to 650 degrees. 6. I had my MIG ready to go. Took the manifold out of the oven onto the welding table, welded from the holes first stitching to the middle. Cast is dirty so I had to occasionally wire brush and continue welding. Had someone grab the sand bucket as i was finishing. 7. Put on welding gloved , dug a trench in the sand and buried the manifold. Threw welding aprons over the top. 8. Left it buried for 24 hours. So far it is good, no leaks and no cracking. Not the prettiest but worked. Tony

I have a 1987 Chrysler Lebaron Premium Coupe VIN 1C3CJ51E1H The sticker under the hood says 2.5L The badging on the side of the car "Electronic Fuel Injected TURBO" According to the VIN "E" code indicated 2.2 I believe this is a Turbo 1 engine. Very early 87 year manufacture date. SO MY QUESTION - 2.2 TURBO-1 OR 2.5 TURBO-1 OR OTHER Thanks for any help Tony

THIS IS AMAZING ! First the fact that someone had the foresight to save all this information. Second that those same visionaries make time to review these forum with the intent to help others. and third that you , and you know who you are, are so complete and determined to make sure you provide the best information when ever possible. Doesn't it just make you feel like you have friends all over the world? Thanks for all the data. A bit too cold for me to tinker with now but it will all come in handy soon enough. Tony

My apologies to the forum. After re-reading my post I did not mean to suggest that the forum advise regarding the addition of an electric fuel pump was inaccurate. Some mentioned one would be required to prime the carb and others to supply enough pressure to run. In my case, after a couple weeks of sitting I manually prime the carb. Tony

Hey Larry I might have the info you need. If I am right I am running a 1975 to 1978 Rochester 2GC Rebuild kit 2-5419 NAPA. You should know that this may not be the best as for fit and linkage but it worked for me and the price was right. The base plate and adapter is the key. One issue with the one I am using is that those years had all kinds of hoses and ports for vacuum so if you are going to use it buy a pack of caps for the ports. Also the fuel line enters from the front but many earlier ones enter from the side. Additionally I had received advise from the forum that an electric fuel pump would be required to feed the carb. I am not running one so this setup seems to work. See carburetorcenter.com Tony

Larry i have to check but if I am correct there are two common base plates on the Rochester 2bl carbs. I have an AutoCAD file my brother and I designed that can drive a 3D printer or CNC. The file creates an adapter plate that allows the installation of any Rochester with the one specific base plate to the Buick. Personally I am running an adapter made by a 3D printer (plastic) because my engine never exceeds 145 degrees and the intake manifold seems to stay well below that. I think the carb I am using is 70's to 80's. Just one a friend had laying around. Let me see if I can dig up the rebuilding kit I used to teach carb rebuilding to my students. That should have a number we can cross reference. Tony