CTCV

Thanks Bob I saw the bolts on the registry. I can't put that much money in the car for that. I need to focus all funds for more critical repairs. I have a very good front bumper core that I hope to get rechromed. I can make the bolts. Tony

I am not sure which side or front or back door. It does not move although I have no interest in forcing it. I could use bumper bolts at the bumper ends that connect the front bumper bar to the spring bar. Forgive the terminology not sure what it is called. Let me know if you need it. Tony.

Thanks Chuck.

I could use one front and one rear for a 1932 series 90. Tony

OK Bob ,thanks for the info.. Maybe I can rebuild mine.

1932 series 97. On the bottom of the steering column was a small metal box that had electrical connections . One of the levers on the steering wheel connected to it. Anyone have a good one? Thanks Tony

Hi Steve, Mine is up and running but in the school and we were off for the summer and I could not go in to look at it. I was going from memory and some pictures I had taken earlier. For some reason I thought I remember having an issue with mine until those eccentric screws were in the proper position. I would absolutely welcome a picture ,, I enjoy seeing others work.

I have one broken in my 32 97 series. I talked to the 32 Guru, some know who he is, and he mentioned that some skid steer or backhoe bucket blades are held on by a similar bolt. Very flat head with a taper to the shank. On this taper are two raised , I'll call them a keyway, opposite each other that fall into slots in the drum to keep it from rotating. Originals had 2 but the blade bolts may only have one. I have not yet verified this information. Your problem may be removing the weld. Tony

Anyone heading to Hershey trying to decide what to bring. I would be interested in headlight with stanchions for the 32 90 series Buick and front doors with good hinges. PM me if you have images .

Great to hear of your success. As far as the fuel shortage I have read where owners were installing electric fuel pumps as an assist to the original. They also highly recommend the installation of an inertia switch to shut of the pump in an accident. They are available in 6 volt.

In cj's image please note the position of the locking screws compared to the slot they are in. The plate is maxed out with the screws at the end of the travel of the slot. If cj can loosen the locking screws and rotate the base plate (of the point set) to the opposite ends of the slots I would agree with you. My guess he cannot until he lifts the plate, then rotated the eccentric screw closest the pivot 180 degrees and reinstalls the plate. When I say "plate" I am referring to the points set base plate. Sorry for any confusion.

I don't think the rubbing blocks to pivot distance is the issue. I think the points set plate needs to move counterclockwise in relationship to the shaft. The rubbing blocks are in the wrong position but only because the plate and pivot are in the wrong position. If I were to suggest that the rubbing block for set 1 is at 12 oclock, the rubbing block for set 2 is at 7 oclock. It needs to move more towards 630. It cannot get there with the eccentric screws binding each other. In the rusty pic of my distributor you can make out what I feel is the correct eccentric screws orientation. Again just MHO

I am using the image from cjmarzoli. I believe the eccentric screws can limit the adjustment if not in the correct orientation to each other. Imho. See image.

I found my old before and after pics. After rebuilding and setting the gaps it was installed. I only rotated the engine to see if the timing looked correct. It looked right so we cranked it . Had to turn to the most retarded position and it started right up. Maybe the images can help.

I tried posting this once earlier but I did not see it show up. So here I go again. I do not have my 32 Buick in front of me right now but can the eccentric screws used to adjust the points be installed 180 degrees off. This is the only thing I can think of that can alter the position of the point set. Sorry for the repost .

OK I do not have a chance to look at my 32 but I am going to ask this anyway at the risk of sounding stupid. The eccentric screws used to adjust the points. Can they be installed improperly? Basically 180 degrees off.

The car is stored back in my garage. Tucked in kind of tight to get a good rear image. Please do a search to see what the tail looks like. Not even close to a 63. But here is an interior shot of my car.

Not to take away from the owners of 64s but 65s were the first years for front disc brakes and sequential taillights. The taillights no big deal but I think the disc brakes were a valuable upgrade. Thanks for passing the word.

Older restoration, about 10 years ago. Most everything replaced or rebuilt. Original miles were just over 59K. Runs a drives well. Orig. 390 and Trans. Power steering and brakes. Everything else manual. Only has about 4K since restoration. I would like 9500.00 I am about 2 hours from Hershey.

Nice to see your pictures. By the way, do you know if anyone is making replica tags for the firewall, mine was missing? Now that I look where the holes were drilled on mine I would think aftermarket.

The pipes on mine are threaded on both ends. The ends that pass through the firewall and the ends that enter the end caps of the heater. So you mention no heaters were factory installed, that's very interesting. I will have to look closer to see if there is any Buick markings. I will keep your generous offer in mind. We are now out of school so work is on hold.

My heater core looks like a small radiator. The two metal pipes have threads and seem to be screwed into the end caps which seem to be brass. See pictures. I would like to know if the metal lines/pipes are only screwed in or were then soldered. I would like to replace them if I can but really do not want to add much heat for obvious reasons. I want to rebuild the tin and get it chromed. The fan still works! Crazy!

It would be great to have history of ownership but I guess those records are long gone.

I am going to go to my local DMV this week. I am not quite sure how completely built the vehicle needs to be and are photos required but I guess I'll find out.

My old Buick was bought with a bill of sale only. If you have seen the early pictures when I bought it you can understand why. Can someone fill me in on the steps to acquire a new title? Thanks Tony