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CTCV

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Everything posted by CTCV

  1. I would like to buy or trade for 4 - 1932 Buick 90 series hubcaps. They do not need to be perfect they just need to stay on. I do have a spark plug cover for an old Buick but not sure what year. It is an 8 cylinder firing order. It has a pair of vents at each end and does list the valve clearances. It is 30" overall length and 15 1/4 inch center to center on mounting holes. In very decent shape. If I can trade. Thanks Tony
  2. A Fire Department in KS has a fire engine back sitting on a 90 series chassis. I saw it had different wheels. Came to find out many years ago someone had made adapters to attach 16 inch steel wheels to the hubs.
  3. Yeah the son is in his 80's and the Johnnies business began about 39 and then ended by 41.
  4. After a long search i have found the son of the original owner of the converted tow truck. Here is the original door and Yellow page ads of the Business and the company that most likely hand painted the original Johnnies logo. Wasn't sure where to post this but hope you find it interesting as I do.
  5. The issue for me at this point is how to measure for bolt pattern. On 5 lug I knew it to be outside of one stud to the center of the other. (after skipping one) If this the accurate procedure for KH wire wheels then I am getting 5 on 6.5 which i see no listing for that size. 1932 90 series Buick info says 5 on 5. What am I doing wrong? Tony
  6. I still have the windshield parts in this image. I do NOT have the heat riser/ carb part. The parts I have are from the top 2nd one down ( wooden part with gears and knob on other side) it functions. 3rd part down is the frame that holds the glass itself with the two slots that engage the pins on the previous geared mechanism. 4th part down is the windshield trim. Stainless.good condition just a bit of rust residue. 5th part down is the vent door with the handle and knob. That's what I have. All three windshield items must buy together. All parts are from 32 Buick 97.
  7. I know the pictures would help but I did not have one til now. I will take more soon but this is one for now. The interior is surprisingly very good. Not a barn find but it was under cover on concrete floor. The beauty rings are in the trunk. I have not tried to start it and will not until I can prime the oil system. Been sitting about 6 or 7 years but may have been occasionally started. Not sure. 93K original.
  8. I have acquired a 76 Grand Prix. I do not know a heck of allot about them but this one has a 400 engine. I would say it is between fair and good condition. Interior is nice. The original owner had it painted at some point but I do not know when but the technician (and I use the word loosely) apparently did not believe in purchasing the molding clips at the rockers and screwed right through the moldings to attach them. I could barely even get that out of my mouth without getting sick. Anyway car is complete otherwise. Any Pontiac persons out there that may want to place a rough value? It was kind of a barn find but I'm not going to even buy a battery until I'm convinced it is worth it. Tony
  9. Ok Matt call at your convenience. One bit of good news. I found the guy that had the original headlights from the 32 and I bought them this morning. Little wiring work and some bulbs they will be back on and up and running.
  10. These tire prices are silly when you realize you will throw them away before you wear down 1/32 of tread. No way I was going spend that just to hold something off the rims. I'm rolling on Lexus RX350 spares. They don't have the same outside diameter but everything else works fine. AND 4 for 90 bucks. I spent more on the tubes. Tony
  11. Thanks for the link Mark. I'll tell you what I have concluded was the misfire issue. The original points in the distributor were the type that had an all metal base plate and an all metal contact arm. One set had an insulating thin washer under the arm on the pivot pin keeping the arm and base plate separated. I believe I was shorting out and dropping 4 of the cylinders. Regardless the accuracy of my tuning that misfire was not going away. The new set of points have a nylon arm and no way to short to the base plate. Runs like a champ now. A little info about my motor. 344 , head and block surfaces cut down and running the thin gasket. Original cam has a custom grind. Custom pushrods and new rollers on the lifters. Of course bored and new pistons. New timing gears, water pump impeller, gaskets etc. I believe my compression should be 15 or 20% higher than the stock HC . 45 psi of oil pressure and temp does not seem to get over 165 no mater what. One day when I have the guts I want to see how it handles at 60 or 70 mph. Thanks again. Tony
  12. I know this is an older post but just in case someone needs the info. I had my set made by Manton Push rods. Any length and any ends you want.
  13. I am new to the Pre War Buick stuff so I would not be the one to ask from the collector value. I have always valued vehicles first by price paid divided by potential miles driven. This is where the collector value comes in because some of the best restored vehicles are not driven much and those that buy them certainly don't plan on driving the wheels off. My Buick is no where near the quality restoration as this 57 but I plan on driving the wheels off mine. Some buy new 100k cars and drive them 20k miles then sell them for half. That's $2.50 a mile. I plan on getting my investment out by miles driven. If i get 30k miles out of mine and junk it for $0 I'll be fine. If someone buys it , it will all be gravy. Back to the 57. I think folks are going to have to just start driving them and getting that value. Then after getting about half the investment money in miles you don't feel so bad about selling in today's softer market. Hopefully by the time you rack up 40k miles on it the market will be stronger. Best of luck. Sorry I did not have a number value.
  14. We are up and running. Dual points were a bit tricky but running great. Had an odd timing issue I thought funny after solving. I adjusted the points to what I thought should be correct. The engine had a bad stumble. Adjusted again and the engine smoothed out. This is prior the first drive in probably over 60 years. Went for a ride everything sounded good , smooth running , just a small stumble on acceleration. Took it to maybe 30 MPH. Trans good. Rear good. Brakes good. Back to the garage. Inside i seem to smell raw fuel. Just thought the carb was too rich. Decided to throw the timing light on and the light is not flashing. I thought my light was bad or wouldn't run off the 6volts. Eventually I decided to put the sensor clip on the other spark wires to find out only four were firing. Replaced both points with new. Fired it up sounded smooth but different. And no raw fuel. Took it for another ride. Ah there comes the torque. Really need to have all 8 banging. 45 on a high idle. Tony
  15. I haven't been on the forum for a bit but I will post an update to our 32 Buick Tow Truck project. As for now trying to find a few items. Trying to find a turn signal switch electrical unit at the bottom of the steering column. I'm not sure if the 90 series only had one wheel option, we have the original wires and would like to know if there was ever an artillery style wheel in the same bolt pattern. Ours seem to be 5 on 6.5 -18. If anyone knows of repro wheel caps that fit the original wire wheels that would help too. Oh and if anyone knows of a decent hood that would be great. I'm not worried about the side panels. Thanks Tony As it turns out , i am told these vehicles did not have turn signals. The levers on the steering wheel were for headlights and some type of throttle control. So the unit on the bottom of the column must have been a headlight control. The car had small indicator lights on top of the fenders (i never had them)which I assumed were turn signals but were actually driving lights.
  16. Sorry for the delay getting back. I tried to send a few messages individually just to find out there is a limit. For those that wanted to see the back. See pic. There is no bed in it at this time. Trying to decide if I should build it to tow truck use standards or just for show or just put a wood floor in the bed.
  17. Yes sorry I did not get back to you earier.
  18. Ok, I think I get the picture. When we started this I knew our car will never be worth restoring because it was too far gone. So I figured parts that can help someone else to complete a true restoration would be offered up and maybe their part if in worse shape we would use on ours. But it seems the bumper cores do not have any major value so the plating is the value. I think I'll just fill it and paint it since our car will never be original. After all we are just trying to preserve what we have and not looking for trophies. Thanks for the input.
  19. The bumper on our project looks to be original and surprisingly straight. It is however pitted but not rotted. If the bumpers value is high after chroming and it adds extra value to the project I will make the investment. If not I will fill the pitting and paint to match. So I guess I need to know the value of this bumper chromed properly. Any ideas? Tony
  20. Hello once again. Sorry to say but I think it is time. If any Prewar Buick folks are interested in this project Buick let me know. I cannot give a price at this time because I have not figured what I have invested. I figure any serious buyer would want to come see it first anyway, which would require an appointment. Thanks Tony
  21. Here is mine. Do they usually Crack in the same spots? If so where are the weak spots? I found no cracks but this engine had two bent pushrods in number one. I figured head gasket and hydrolock held the valves so the rods bent.
  22. Thanks Steve. I have enough parts to determine measurementso so I guess I was just looking for an easy way out by buying reproductions in place of making them. Thanks anyway But if you get a chance to post a picture I think it could help. Tony
  23. Our car was a 1932 97 model. Those that had it before us cut out the back doors as some of you may already know. We need to make doors but the issue is the door hinges. The original slots and holes are there but I have no original hinge info or specs. Are there any repro hinges that fit? I see ford stuff. Just not sure what can work. Tony
  24. Sorry goofed up. Thats the car on the rotisserie. Here is the car now. I had it listed here before for I believe 9500.00 changed my mind on that. Dug out my old receipts , it's gonna take 12K . Engine and transmission professionally rebuild.
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