Brooklyn Beer
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Posts posted by Brooklyn Beer
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8 hours ago, theKiwi said:
My 1926 Franklin has a fuse box on each side of the engine compartment, with 6 (I think - maybe 5) fuses in it protecting the light circuits, ignition, horn. They take the common glass fuses that are still available today.
I have "fixed" some of my wiring, but mostly it is still the original. What I "fixed" was where the previous owner had used modern plastic wiring and bright coloured crimp connectors to put in an electric fuel pump, a non standard brake light switch, and new wires to the coil. I bought the appropriately coloured wire from Rhode Island Wiring to tidy this all up - Rhode Island Wiring sell modern plastic coated wire that is wrapped in the original coloured cotton threads so it looks original, and have it in all the different colours needed. And I removed the electric fuel pump and put back the original vacuum tank which I luckily got with the car. I paid a guy in Ohio to recondition it for me before putting it back on the car. See this post on my blog where I sorted out all the wiring specifications into a table for future reference
http://lisaandroger.com/2017/02/franklin-series-11a-wiring/
Roger
I am stealing a picture of yours for a minute to make a point. How technology of today in many ways has just made things simpler, not always better. Case in point is the connectors used in your Franklin wiring. If I could buy connectors like this working on controls on the job or projects around here I would in a minute. More time consuming yes but so much better ! Never wondering about a proper crimp with these. About the wire. Is that tinned copper or were they so into saving weight it is aluminum ??
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5 minutes ago, 29 franklin said:
Great that you joined the club. Welcome to a great group of guys and gals. If you can make it to the Franklin Trek I guarantee you will have an awesome time. Most people will let you drive their cars , the food is unreal and the tours are very interesting.
Where are the treks held? Everything seems to be light years away from TX in the car world !
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Any of the Franklin guys help me? Can't get into members area after joining
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26 minutes ago, Walt G said:
the one rear light is also a brake light , there are several bulbs in that light, most often one for the brake light, one for the license plate ( clear class at the bottomon of the light) and one for the light itself when you turn on the headlamps that light goes on as well. For Franklin I bleieve that 1928 was the first year that a extra light was offered at the rear so you colud have two lights - hel;ps today as moist drivers do not know about carts with one rear light.
Turn signals, Franklin never had them, hand signals - if you use hand signals now be prepared to have people wave "Hi" back at you as they think you are being friendly ( SERIOUSLY) In my pre war cars if they didn't have turn signals I had them wired in, if I had a new harness for the entire car I told the harness maker to run extra wires for this before he had the cloth wrapped/woven around it. A simple turn signal switch can be mounted on the bottom edge of the dashboard or you can get a strap on lever/handle to mount on the steering column , many NOS units can still be found and bought at flea markets or on line auctions.
Advance and retard of the spark was a way you started the car in that era. most of the time now that can be set up and left, but it is a simple task usually done when the car is cold and has sat for some time. It is not a big deal and the instruction book will inform you of when and how to set the hand levers. Most horns are a button at the center of the steering wheel.
Re air distribution - Franklin engineers sorted this out for you, nothing to worry about and you won't fry a cylinder because it is further back in line. Have you ever really looked at the size of one of the fans on the front of a Franklin? It is mounted to the end of the crankshaft , a very effective unit. Death Valley Scotty did not ha]ve a problem with it in the desert proving that Franklin's did not over heat. One of Franklin's sales efforts had a kid sit on/straddle the hood of a Franklin and then they drove around town in the car with him there and holding a sign that said "I ain't hot".
Have not seen the fan cross section or schematic.
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"Many owners have added that right light and Rhode Island wire has the measurements to include it in their tail light harnesses. They went to two fender-mounted tail lights as standard starting in 32".
So this would require a new wiring harness correct in total? How simple are they in nature? And to think about it, how are the circuits protected with fuses? type?
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1 minute ago, maok said:
Two things that I will suggest,
1. Avoid a car with external contracting brakes bands, like my '28 Chrysler, 'Chrysler from 29 onwards had internal expanding brakes. Why? In the wet, the contracting brake bands slip....😕
2. Avoid cars with generators intergrated into the block and turn with the timing chain. Again my '28 Chrysler had this but not from '29 onwards.
So does this fit in with Franklins? I usually never drive in the rain. What type brakes do Franklins have say from 28 onward?And do Franklins have a bracket mounted genny?
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All right, this question has always bugged me when I see a car of this era with the extra levers on the wheel hub. (no horn?) I know they are for throttle and for spark advance and retard(?). Why would you need to advance and retard the spark?
And something else I guess I will have sort out here in my county in TX. Cars 25 years and older only need a safety inspection. Lights and horn. How does that work in other states? Franklins only had one rear light and was that a brake light as well? No turn signals?
And where was the hot air from the air cooling expended too in relation to the passenger compartment ? And how was the air circulated evenly among the cylinders? If it started in parallel from front to back then would not the last cylinder be getting much warmer air being last in line? How exactly is the air pushed through the line of cylinders that gives them equal cooling ?
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Well I am now a member of the Franklin club. I just have to learn more about this car and the fascinating history of it. The 1929 and up cars just seem to talk to me. I have read that maintenance on these cars is best scheduled on hourly drive time VS miles which is basically what my other cars are on. Are there things on these cars though that require a different series of maintenance scheduling? Special oil for higher temps? ect. And what are some of the typical mechanical "upgrades" done to make these cars just a little more friendly with increased drivability for today's world?. I.E electronic ignition conversions, modifications for the fuel of today, etc. I see a club member has taken it upon himself to offer a solution with a better carb.
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I have to do a little more reading about the Franklin. Is there a recommended book? I have to say they are starting to grow on me. Quite the dedicated owners group.
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Thanks for your time Walt and everyone. I grew up in Blue Point, Walt, just a little ways out from you.
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Question on the Frankilns. Do they have a temp gauge and what is the normal operating temps?
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We have not discussed a Chrysler yet in any detail. I always thought Chrysler tried to compete on the level of Buicks but below a Cadillac. I came across this car which has many detailed pictures. Looks like a well taken care of part time driver with added heater. Very clean. The flathead 6 looks alot like what is my 46 Dodge. What are the opinions on this periods Chryslers?
https://www.allcollectorcars.com/for-sale/1930-Chrysler-CJ-6-/2232912/
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You see I would have to agree 100% with you there as I have been a person involved with doing living history and have appeared a time or two back in the day on the history. They are always looking for correct reenactors. I enjoy that aspect of things immensely. So a car is an extension of my total passion for history. I have not counted out any vehicle that could come my way except the rarities. Oh no. I like to drive. And I do love being period correct. I just don't expect that Franklin to be there in a couple months but who knows, another just popped up on Ebay so they are around. Plus I like the size of the car and the fact I get to build another addition to the garage!
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What is peoples opinion of Volo auto sales? I see they have quite a few cars for sale that will be well within my budget
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Originals are miller. They set both pilot bushings in the fluid drive assembly at the same time. Anyone know of a source or an alternative?
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Thanks for replying about your fine car. It is a beauty for sure. BUT don't hold up selling it on my account because right now I am in the look and learn stage of acquiring a 1927-33 era car with a purchase plan some 2 months down the road. I learn more and more every day about cars from this era thanks to good folks like yourself. Honestly I never knew of Franklins till this thread. They seem like very interesting and strong mechanically inclined vehicles. I read someplace that around 3700 only remain? So let me ask you this. What is the most often thing that breaks or goes wrong? With that, has an aftermarket solution been devised that keeps it factory appearance or are parts readily available for it? What do you consider the high points of the Franklin and what would you say are the low points mechanical wise? With the car I buy I doubt I will ever be able to attend any judged shows or major events. Never any down this way that I could do in a 12 hour day. Mostly local stuff and evening drives into town (6 -7 miles each way) and perhaps trailered to events maybe 2 hours from my house. So a top end restored strictly show car would not be in my best interest because it will get driven when the weather permits even just to get groceries. Don't like leaving them just sit in the garage.
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7 minutes ago, mercer09 said:
solid 1931 Pierce model 43 for sale on ebay- currently at 9100. and looks like it will sell for a bargain price. Does run and will need some sprucing up, but a Filenes Basement price!
Very interesting car but not a project I could take on. Any car I get from this time period is a total learning experience and with that much support would be needed on any major mechanical work. I am pretty good on fixing things, repairs, etc. Very handy really IF I have a book with me or some support. Much like the issue I am having replacing the clutch on my 46 Dodge. What it should be is not. Who would have thought. (Previous owner, "pilot bushing won't fit? ahhh who needs one anyway") I have thread going in Dodge 46 fluid drive clutch replacement. My 49 Roadmaster gave me a starter, electric, ignition issue and was able to sort that out with everyone's help.
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The differences in size is about a 100th but can't tell till I put a new battery in the mic tomorrow. Factory size on my new (bronze) pilot bushing seem to match up but the hole they are supposed to slide is just under a 100th smaller in the FD unit. New bushing is factory correct .815 while the whole it is supposed to go into is around .725. I am going to to super clean the FD hole tomorrow and double check. But seeing this tells me there was not a pilot bushing installed when I removed it for this very same reason I found I do suspect. Anyone else ever come across this?
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OK, but a problem I would just soon enough avoid. If anyone has looked at the pictures posted of that Franklin touring can you point out the spot I would be looking at?
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I just received the new upper bushing from motor city speed works and I had also bought another pilot bushing as a matched set. This pilot bushing slides on the input shaft nicely and is the correct 9/16. The center bronze colored. Yet in my fluid drive unit is the size larger pictured on left side of the picture. The far right bushing is the upper shaft bushing. Now I am really confused. If there is a pilot bushing already installed and I remove it then the new one that fits the input tip will rattle around. Also the new one that fits the tip doesn't feel like it can slide into what is already there. (They forgot to put one in ?) Like one was not installed previously. This could go a ways to explaining why the bearing retainer broke. Now before I go and turn down the new correct pilot bushing that has the proper inside dimensions a couple 100ths on the outside to slide into what already is installed in the fluid coupler, can anyone give me some type of logical answer as to why I have 2 different size pilot bushings and neither one will work though ordered for the same car ?
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Is the pilot bushing supposed to match the tip of the input shaft in size or no. The replacement I got from Bernbaum is easily a 3/4 inch diameter internal while the tip of the input shaft on the trans is 9/16. I have some 1" dowel I am going to turn down to do the grease method. Also on the top bushing I presume I have to remove the large nut that holds the friction plate on to press that one out ?
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Question on the Franklin (I really do like the open touring listed) is if you are not moving, how does air circulate around the cylinder banks? I did not know how long that designed lasted but if it lasted that many years there must have been a good reason.
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Had to take an extended break on it what with bad weather and a bout of the flu. I changed the rear mounts and reattached the bell housing. Just dropping the clutch and fluid drive out the bottom. Clutch is shot, cracked to pieces. Am going to get plate resurfaced and have to figure out best way to get that off. Also need to know the way to get the pilot bushing out as well as the two other bushings in the fluid drive unit. Any hints?
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9 hours ago, mike6024 said:
I think you need to be logger into your Facebook account to see the pictures, there are about 10 of them. If you want to contact the seller I guess I could message him your phone number, and ask him to call you.
1929 Studebaker Dictator / Commander w/ suicide doors, straight 6 w/ manual trans. Very nice older restoration. Huge inside, room for 6. Runs and drives great. Awesome oak wood wheels with spare tire and wheel on back. Car is in great shape. $11,000 obo. No trades please. Selling because I have too many and they don’t get driven enough
1929 Studebaker Commander / Dictator
Indianapolis, INAndrew Christiansen, Seller
Yes, he can send me an email as I don't do the facebook world. Would like to see some underside pictures and ask a few questions. Did he say what city and state the car was located in ? Chrisgiddyup06@aol.com
Advice / input on buying a late 20's - early 30's car
in General Discussion
Posted
A couple dribbles of solder on the backside of the new ones and they would as good as factory. Where did you get them ?