Brooklyn Beer
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Posts posted by Brooklyn Beer
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I am just breaking in a rebuilt dynaflow in my 49 Roadmaster. I think I found the shift point around 38 mph but hard to tell. It is a very nice cruising trans but just likes to drip. No matter how you drive it will just start with the drips. I once trailered mine for 800 miles and backing it out of the trailer it puked out the dip stick for no reason. like 2 pints. After it sat still for a day it never happened again. Remember it was also used in Tank Destroyers in WW2
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As I go about the clutch replacement I am also changing out the severe leaking rear main seal so as to install a functioning hand drum brake that as we all know is a requirement on fluid drive cars. This one is soaked through. So I removed the nut and star washer and found what looks like to be a flat washer with 2 square detents opposite of each other. What is the proper procedure for removing this? Does it pull off when pulling the rear drum off? Anything special I need to look for when pulling the drum off? Plan on using a 3 jaw puller. I have not dismantled any part of the hand drum brake assembly yet
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Sounds like to be a good book for sure in the making.
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Sounds like what happened when Rheingold closed in Brooklyn. We use to bring the security guard a danish and coffee in the morning (1979-80) and get free run of the old plant. What was left behind could not be brought out in 10 tractor trailers, all going back to the 1890's. Not just paper either. We saved as much as we could. A lot of it is my bar I built off the house.
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How was it the club came across all this factory material? That is one incredible find. Normally when a factory closes the stuff ends up as trash unless someone has the foresight to take it home. Even then it is not ever nearly as complete as this.
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Is there a diagram that shows some detail of the walking beam and valve system
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Reading through Franklin manuals how does the fuemer switch work compared to a choke? I also find interesting they say to add 1 qt medium oil to gas tank for every 10 gallons of gas for first 1000 miles. Must have been pretty smokey that first 1000 miles ? What is the proper grade of oil for these motors? a difference in hot weather VS cooler weather? What do they consider light machine oil ? Says to refill the valve oiler every 1000 miles. Interesting. I am guessing this is easily accessible. Same as engine oil? What would todays equivalent be for the graphite and in the case of the steering box, what is liquid grease?
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Well, is it even close to being a 55K car? Reading the prior comments, how hard is it to make a Franklin into something it was not originally to get extra $ at auction?
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I am seeing something there but having problem with my eye's and the strobe and being able to focus. It actually screwed my equilibrium up for almost 30 minutes. I might have to get someone to do it. Don't ever get blown up, it comes back years later in weird ways. This being a new one for the list.
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so next questions about the Franklin in comparison to other cars. Brakes. How tough are they to work on and how often do they need adjusted from just say 20-30 mile a week driving? I am guess no self adjusters from 1929-34?
Generators and output. I see many pictures of Franklins and other cars with add-on fog lights, etc. Was there different output generators for different cars? And would that also include voltage regulators.
Drive line. How are the drive shafts mated to the rear and trans? Simple U-joints are a more complicated set up? (My 46 dodge is a pain and thankfully I have not had to touch the 49 Buick)
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I have a plain old common 46 Dodge that looks like they spent a lot more time getting more wood grain detail into. Curious to how it was done. Thanks !
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I just have to ask why the term for early transmissions are Crash boxes?
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Is there a video of this painting technique I could watch. Always like seeing quality craftsmanship in action.
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I actually think the problem is my own eye's not being able to focus correctly on the mark as I do see some yellow going around I think. Even with my readers on I cannot focus on a line or mark getting as deep down as I can get my head. To me it almost looks the color of a grade 8 bolt. This motor was rebuilt some years ago before I got it so I have no doubt the mark is there, I just can't see it. Just took it for a 10 mile drive and the miss is 98% gone while in gear at a traffic light. I just might tweak it another smidge more retarded. It started right up as well with no laboring from operating temp too boot. also adjusted the idle mixture a wee bit and the idle itself just checked at 725 rpm. That can come down.
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Somewhere I remember reading from some older car guy that before going to first when pulling up to a light or stop sign always go into second first keeping clutch depressed before first. The same when getting into reverse. Always go to second first from neutral then reverse while keeping clutch depressed. Something about how the gears line up. Before i sold my 40 Ford 2 ton truck that tranny was a bear to get into gear with double clutching every gear. First was designed so slow I guess to walk next to it and pick lettuce I think. Anyway my father god rest his soul had used these trucks when he was 7-8 years old in Brooklyn in the family business. Had not driven one since 1950. First time he came down and saw it he just had to go for a drive. Told him about double clutching and he asked why? And god only knows how he did it but he never ground a gear and he never doubled clutched it. Was 60 years since he drove one.
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4 hours ago, mercer09 said:
Texas - no inspection required - is that still true?
folks I have spoken with say a cop needs to come out for about 3 years now to inspect.............
Safety inspection. lights and horn and if car came equipped with it original, they have to work.
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Just now, 1956322 said:
It takes some getting use to to learn to look past the strobe
I tried it two ways. No under hood light on and light on. I climbed in as close as I could get and all I could see was a bolt/nut going round and round lol
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I will tell you what, I must be getting too old to see what I am looking for because all I see is strobe. I did retard it guesstimated 5-6 degree's till the miss about went away. Will let it cool down and see how it starts. Idle at 700 now. Will drive for a while and see what I got.
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ok, waited for the good timing light and weather to set timing. When I shine the strobe into the hole all I see is what looks like a bolt head going around. I am going to have climb into it to get a closer look. But according to the manual I should see a yellow mark. Correct?
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Transmission. In the 1946 shop manual , page 170, trans schematic, item number 33. Drive Pinion Bearing. Behind drive pinion bearing retainer which is part number 26. Need one. Anyone? source? bernbaum is out.
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7 hours ago, PFitz said:
FYI, Franklin used those crimper ring terminals on cars up through the 20's, but switched to the simpler and readily available type that Rhode Island Wire Service calls, "Ring Tongue Terminals" in later cars. Look in their "supplies" section under, "Rings and Spades".
So, I'd suggest you wait and see what year Franklin your interested in before getting too involved in it's wiring, .... which had quite a few changes almost every year. Some good and a couple of not so good. Such as having the coil mounted on the engine base before 1930, or using fewer fuses starting in 1929. But there are inexpensive, period-looking improvements that can be used to overcome the not so good when doing a rewiring.
Paul
Just absorbing any and all info I can get
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And what type trans was in the later model cars ? Synchro? Double clutching ?
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Does anyone have a vid with sound of a late 20s Franklin running with hood open and closed and of in cab driving at speed ?
Model 10C Exhaust
in Franklin
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Ever try an electricians conduit bender? Bet you can rent one pretty cheap for the day.