Brooklyn Beer
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Posts posted by Brooklyn Beer
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Do you have a fuel regulator incorporated into the system and know the flow rate of the pump ? I had this same issue on my 40 Ford when I installed an electric pump to do away with vapor lock. I just had to decrease the pressure a 1/2 pound.
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I see people advertising cars as Junior and Senior winners. How do they get classified as each?
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So tell me what sets apart McLaughlin Buicks from US made Buicks?
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The trans in my 46 Dodge coupe fluid drive car has a cracked trans case. I also think the graphite seal in the FD unit is shot. So I am looking for trans and parts needed to just swap this out to a standard 3 speed car. It is just a driver. Anyone help with pointing the right direction in doing that swap OR a well priced 3 speed trans for a fluid drive car? Some tutorial or? Do not want to get too cost involved with this project or it risks becoming my nephews rat rod project with full engine and tranny swap
Also, are transmissions from Plymouths up to 1949 a direct swap out for dodge cars?
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Was about to install the stock trans back in my 46 dodge after doing the clutch and degreased the trans only to find the housing (top right bolt area) is cracked into the housing. Do not think is a repairable area without gutting the trans. So am looking for a trans for a fluid drive car. BUT I also think the graphite seal in the FD unit is done for as well as when I spin the clutch after replacing clutch I get this not so nice grating sound. It did not do it on the bench when laying flat but now wants to to after install back into car.
But I just have to ask, what is needed to be done to just change all this out to just a standard 3 speed without fluid drive? Heard bad things cost wise on repairing fluid drive units. If it is cheaper in the long run this sounds like a better route as the car is just a standard driver.
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Finally getting back to installing the trans in my 46 Dodge F/D coupe after an unintended 3 month hiatus and noticed something I had not previously when I had the trans on the bench doing the rear main seal and front shaft bearing. The shift lever attached vertically is loose going back and forth and doesn't seem to be engaging anything. I cannot get it to "shift" much of anything while on the bench. The horizontal shift lever attached to the top will go through gears including neutral. I am now wondering if the catastrophic failure of the release bearing, bearing sleeve as well as front input shaft bearing retainer failure broke something else I didn't notice. Should that shift lever just flip back and forth real easily ?
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Looking at a 1929 four door sedan that has an issue with some wood framing needing replaced as well as the top. All wood is in the roof section. One piece looks to be along the front / visor area and the other is one of the back corners. Being the top would be coming off in the future fall for replacement just how big of a job is it replacing pieces? I am not a novice or even handyman wood worker by any means but not a furniture maker either. Have most tooling of a cabinet shop as I do like to dabble in making things. Large band saw, table saw, pocket hole machine, router table, joiner, surface planner, etc.. I have good knowledge of joining lumber through mortising, etc. So in the skinny, how did Franklin join their framing together? I am sure our glues and joinery has advanced today for sure. When replacing framing like this just how much of the car needs disassembled? The rest of the lower side of the car seems fine with no sag in the frame. I would be the 4th owner of the car and the maintenance of the car with records since new is top notch. Just an older 1960's restoration that has some issues that need addressed but is a very mechanically sound car. I am guess the top replacement is would the easier of the issues.? Any input on that as well ?
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4 hours ago, cahartley said:
Brooklyn Beer, I just realized HOW new you are to cars.
Coming here and asking your questions is the best thing you could have done....... 👍
Oh not new to old cars, just new too Franklin's to the point until 4 months ago I never knew they existed. skimming around the web and researching I found a bunch of other cars from the 20's I never knew of like the Gardner for example. Was always a post war 40's and 60's guy .
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The perfect evening after yesterdays hail and tornado extravaganza followed by a 38 degree morning.. Now it is 75 degree's and I have no particular place to go so that is where I am going !
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13 minutes ago, PFitz said:
Then there's a few club members who work on Franklins full time, who can help advise you what and how to go through the car and get it running, if it's capable. I have over 60K digital pix of 40 years of working on Franklins that I use to help members answer thier Franklin questions. Many of them already appear in the Club Q&A, of which I was one of the contributors for many years.
Paul
Thanks and that leads me to the all important question. How can someone check if it is capable of being started after sitting? I think that can only be diagnosed by someone much more experienced then myself since I am just starting out. Seems like a car with very much to offer but could become a nightmare for the inexperienced. Then again it could be as simple as flushing the fuel system and cleaning the carb, rebuilding each wheel cylinder and the master, and away you go. I just don't know enough to even ask the seller the correct questions with a Franklin. Oddly after doing a web search for brake cylinder and master cylinder rebuild parts they come up as being on Ebay. Are there parts suppliers that specialize in Franklins ?
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1 hour ago, John_Mereness said:
As to tapping vales to make sure everything is free - the cars are overhead valve - you pop the fans shroud cover off, then you take off the rocker arm/valve covers and it is all sort of right in your face to look at (very common to see on a morning at Franklin Trek prior to a tour to see people with blower shroud top off while oiling their valves by hand). You take a block of wood and a hammer and you give then a tap, and then you take the hand crank and spin the engine and make sure all the push rods spin in your finger tips, then you oil, and then you drive.
Interesting. So I am guessing doing valve adjustment is equally as easy. Is hand oiling the valves a weekly need?
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16 hours ago, cahartley said:
^ At that money you can fly out and look at it or pay someone to check it out for you.
That the engine was professionally rebuilt is worth the trip alone.......
I wish I could but that can't happen. If there are any members in that area I would not mind paying for an inspection. Even if I did go look at it, I really don't know what to look for.
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I found the repair article on the frame and though looks complicated, it basically resembles using a bow string to bring things back to straight with tension and compression. The diagram explains it pretty well. Now putting it to practical use might be different because how do you measure that you have each cable on both sides at same tension to not twist the body? I am sure the sag is not equal either but if you can get each cable placed in the same manner with patience you could measure off a level surface to the bottom of each rail? Most like a turnbuckle needs installed to gradually keep bringing it up? The repair needed on a 10 year old car with newer wood would go easier then on 80 year old seasoned wood. On the flip side I am sure it won't sagging any more after all this time. I would like hearing from someone who has done this repair by the factory offered method or any other method. Would not a piece of flat stock steel plasma cut following the original shape of a non-sagged frame rail cut 3/8 th under-sized to hide the edges and then attached to the rail after jacking up the sag be as good?
The car looks to be a very nice starting point but my limited knowledge of a Franklin might be a determent to getting this car on the road by mid summer. I am sure with club members help any project can be done as I learn my way around things. Wood and wood repair is not as much of an obstacle for me as would be some of the mechanical aspects. Brakes being first on the list just because of a parts issue. The brakes needing cylinders rebuilt and master cylinder gone over and rebuilt I don't even know where to start on parts wise. The fuel system I am sure i could work out on a weekend. Stuck valves? I hear folks say "tapping on the rods to free from the guides". I can't find any procedure on that. Again remember I have never ever seen a Franklin in person. Long time owners talk of what is needed to get the car running and driving as not a very complicated project and I believe them. I brought back my 46 Dodge coupe after an 8 year sit. But the Franklin is a much different animal in regards to the age and mechanicals and parts availability
The seller is a Franklin club member and I don't wish to insult them by making a lower offer. But I also don't know anything about the expense needed if parts in the braking and fuel system start needing more then a rebuild. I am sure fixing the frame sag could turn into a big expense. New tires about 800-900. Can anyone chime in on the other values for things needing repaired mentioned in the add?
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Oh I am looking ! Just wondering if some of the issues being mentioned are above my level experience.
Question, if the frame has sagged, will it continue to sage and is there a repair for it?
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I am just wondering if the mechanical issues that need addressed to get running, is something a novice to these cars should take on.
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I know that Model A parts are very easy to come by. Buick parts tough to find? Earliest vehicle I have owned was a 40 ford 2 -1/2 ton truck. So cars from the 1928-32 would be a learning curve for me. Am not looking to buy a restoration project but a good solid driver.
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Bill what are the mechanicals like in the car? Electrical? Starting, running, driving? Stopping? Age of tires and overall restoration? Age of paint? Age of interior? What have you used the car for mostly and how often of use? Is it stock or any upgrades like overdrive, new carb, brakes etc..
Thanks
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I see a 1928 FRANKLIN AIRMAN MODEL 12B 4 DOOR SEDAN has been posted for sale on the Franklin classified page. Not run in 9 years as stated and needs a good going over to get started (fuel system) as well as a brake overhaul. Can anyone tell me how difficult this on this car?
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In the general sense, asking someone who knows them, what are the good points and weak points of the car, the 6 cylinder motor, etc... Things that stand out both good and bad. Mechanicals, etc...
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In the general sense, asking someone who knows them, what are the good points and weak points of the car, the 6 cylinder motor, etc... Things that stand out both good and bad. Mechanicals, etc...
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Was looking for any reason to take out the 49 and was "granted" the reason when the 39 year old heater core decided to puke out and fill the passenger side of my 80 Z-28 yesterday morning. So off to get the replacement ! A race against the rain but 70 degree's made for a nice 25 mile run out and back.
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Yes I saw that and it looks like it has sat out longer then the 4 months. The paint has already taken a beating. Compared to other cars that have been posted in the past it seems very over priced. Is the owner a club member? I am surprised he didn't give a more reasonable price after looking at the two much better cars posted for equal and 10k less money.
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has to be at least that much in parts there
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I guess i forgot to include the link sorry about that. Haven't been on because nothing has popped up for sale till now. But I keep searching and looking.
https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/franklin/airman/2249343.html
Repairing Top frame wood
in Franklin
Posted
Has pocket hole joinery been attempted repairing wood?