Brooklyn Beer
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Posts posted by Brooklyn Beer
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A couple times it would hang up and continue to turn the starter even when the key was turned off. Had to run and disconnect battery lead for it to stop. This though acts like the starter is not fully disengaging after it cranks over.
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I have a 1949 Buick Road Master that seems to have what sounds like the starter hanging up after I changed the ballast resistor. The motor is only of 3000 miles with a rebuild and the Dynaflow about 100. The car has been converted to 12 volt with alternator as I had AC installed. Only had car for 3 weeks. Cap, rotor, coil, plugs, wires, points, condenser are new. I did not do any of the work on car but someone with a reputable rep did it. Took delivery of the car and it started and ran fine, if a little rich.OK, that was going to be a carb adjustment when tune manual got here. (waiting still) Drove it 60 plus miles without a problem over the next week. Car started very well even on a cold day. Choke, etc seemed to work fine if idle was a little high. Once or twice over 40 starts the starter (still activated from gas pedal) would hang up and would not shut off with key. Had to pop hood and panic disconnect the battery or it would continue to turn even with key off. Problems started coming back from a drive when out of the blue it began to stumble, miss, and loose power. Would not take any pedal at all but was 1/2 mile from house and limped home into garage. Gas in tank is one day old and from same pump I fill my every day cars. Fuel filter is new, carb bowl full and filled with fresh gas. No problems there. Next day when I started it idled horrible. Surged, stumbled, stalled. Then would not start. No fire, no spark. Tested with a spritz of starter fluid. Had a like issue with a 40 ford at one time so changed out ballast resistor and it fired up BUT it acts as if starter is hung up and dragging on the fly wheel. Sounds like it it is stuck on the flywheel BUT not cranking. Rich as well. Prior to restarting after resistor change I screwed in both idle mixture screws all the way then backed out 3 complete turns which I am sure was a mistake now. Trying to find a base to work off as one was 4 turns out from the other. But I digress. The motor acts like it wants to run but something is holding it back and by sound, I am judging it is the starter not releasing. It is not staying engaged like it did when starting but just not releasing. I have not done anything else to it after this happened. No tapping with a hammer, etc. Everything concerning the 12 volt conversion is new parts. Except the ballast resistor. I cannot check to see if that corrected the problem until I address this new one. Opinions? Thanks in advance. This Buick is brand new to me.
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1949 Buick RoadMaster series 70. Twelve volt conversion for AC with alternator. Gas pedal starter switch. Ignition ballast resistor was going/went bad and almost had me stuck going home this week.(My 40 ford once did the same thing to me) Breaking up real bad and would not take any RPM over idle and at that was terrible. Choppy, stumbling. But it sort of ran and I limped the mile home. Parked it. Next day no spark / weak spark if that. So changed Ballast resistor and it fired up but now starter will not disengage. It would hang up once in a while at say every 30 starts and would have to do panic disconnect by removing positive off battery. Key would not shut it off. After changing ballast resistor, checking plugs, etc, and starting, starter will not disengage. Have not done anything yet. No tapping with a hammer, etc. Any opinions on where I should start with this problem? I am 3 weeks new to this car. Rebuilt Dynaflow, 2000 miles on rebuilt motor. I did not do the conversion nor the AC work. Ballast resistor had definitely seen better days. Was running great and then it didn't. That quick. Carb was running a little rich. It is a factory stock motor and carb except for the conversion. Done by a reputable person with knowledge in that.
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OK, just done crawling around under the car and investigating and here is what I found using the shop manual as reference. The clutch fork rod was no longer sitting in the socket of the clutch release fork and the clutch release fork pull back spring was dangling from the release spring bracket, not attached to the fork. The fork itself is just slopping around all over the place like it is not attached to anything. Rest of linkage is attached and can shift freely by hand under the car. So what are folks idea's on what might have broke? The fork pivot? Being I never looked into it before it broke I am not sure if the fork is supposed to move freely of the pivot or if that fork is snug. When I mean the fork is slopping around under there I mean in all directions. And it is an oily mess. I thinking the rear main is leaking pretty bad. Can that be replaced with transmission out ?
Thanks for the help !
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Thank you Bob. Wish I had a lift here at the house to do all this myself.
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Thank you sir for your time. Being the car sat for so long and I have no clue when any work was last preformed I am going to have the entire clutch assembly replaced. Pilot bushing, release bearing, springs, pressure plate, etc. I am pretty sure after reading up on driving a fluid drive it was not functioning properly as the car had a very hard time launching in first and slipped a bunch in 3rd. Shuddered in 2nd. So take off was always in 2nd and upshifted to third. Lots of chatter in 2nd. Have not gotten under the car yet to determine why the pedal was nailed to the floor. (I brought it back up by hand after getting home and it stays up but something is no longer engaged some place) Not knowing the last time it was replaced and how long it sat I am sure any number of parts in the assembly were no longer up to the task at hand. Watching a great vid on 1950 chrysler clutch repair (Period shop movie) has basically said it can one of a number of things in the clutch assembly itself so when it is apart, best to replace it all for piece of mind. They did say one thing and tell me if this how I heard it right. It could be the pilot bushing as the noise happened while in gear or worn or uneven levers not keeping pressure on the release bearing. Noise never came with pedal releasing the clutch and only while in gear.
When the clutch pedal went out it was as a loud growl and vibration occurred in 3rd gear that was easily felt in the clutch pedal itself. When I depressed the pedal it stopped the noise but the pedal stayed rooted to the floor. It never disengaged the clutch and I nursed it home the 5 miles. When I pulled into the garage and stopped I heard a little growling again but nothing like it had done. The fluid drive unit worked fine at a couple stop lights launching the car while it was in 3rd gear as I was getting it home but I was making sure to take it easy and get her home so if anything was slipping I really wouldn't know..
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Thank you sir. As long as the car had sat and a couple of the other issues that I have had with it (linings falling off the brake shoes) I suspected that sooner then later a clutch issue would rear up. The noise I got wasn't so much a rattle as a growl you could feel in the clutch peddle. I am just going to bit the bullet and have the entire clutch replaced a couple months earlier then was planned. There is some oil leaks here and there as well that can be addressed during that time too. I was told there are 2 different sizes of clutch for that year but all I can find is one for the 6 cylinder car. It is a bone stock fluid drive car
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About to start tracking it down. I did not think about spring tension keeping pressure on the bearing so it stayed engaged. As long as this car sat the "shudder/chatter" at low rpm at take off I was thinking was slippage. Was becoming a nice vibration really. When the noise growl started, depressing the clutch made it go away instantly. What (if any) bearing would that be in a fluid drive clutch? It only made noise when in gear.
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Thank you ! Yes, the growl, noise, vibration would happen when in gear but stop when clutch pedal was depressed. Normally when in reverse. Once while in second. But that was when I first got the car and seemed to go away the more driven. This time at 55 mph was a first and was louder then what had happened before. Car did have a shudder begin to start (slippage?) as well last week I now remember when at low RPM starting out from second but went away at around 20 before shifting into third. It would not do it when taking off in third if coasting to a light at 25 mph and accelerating back up to speed though. Was a good firm normal feeling pedal with nothing that would make you think anything was wrong there.
Thanks for taking the time and for the advice
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The working out of the bugs in the long sitting 1946 Dodge with fluid drive continues with what I am now guessing is a throw out bearing deciding to take a dirt nap. This past week it began making a growl when put in reverse but would go away when depressing the clutch. Did it about 6 times off and on during the week but never constant. It was put on the list of repairs. Tonight when driving into town to get some rare ethanol free gas it didn't growl in reverse and seemed fine. Then 8 miles from the house while cruising along at 55 in third gear it started a LOUD growl where upon I depressed the clutch to take it out of gear. Bam. clutch pedal planted to the floor with no return, yet no more growling. It stayed in third gear and thankfully being fluid drive and using a little skill I was able to nurse it home and into the garage. Have not been under yet to see what actually happened and I do not know when the last time it was serviced. Car sat for quite a few years and it had a little throw out growl the first week I had it but went away as I drove it. Always in reverse. I am new to fluid drive cars. Once I get it up on stands is there anything in particular I should be looking for other then the remains of the throw out bearing? And being I will be dropping this off for repair as I have no means to remove the transmission from the car here, I plan on just doing the full clutch replacement. Besides the throw out bearing, pressure plate, clutch disc, springs, etc is there anything else that should be replaced when it is out? And is there a supply house that offers such a complete kit?
Thanks in advance, Chris near Fort Worth, TX
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Jon I scrubbed and cleaned and cannot find any number on the bowl. But I did remove the gunk and see it is a BXVD-3 indeed with numbers below it being 382599. I ordered the correct rebuild kit. I cannot find though any books on tuning or rebuilding. Strombergs are new to me. Has a hesitation right now at take off from a stop while in gear with the fluid drive but will flat out get it after initial stutter. Running rich by the smell. I would start fine tuning this one before rebuilding it if I could find a link or book to guide me. Like I said, strombergs are new to me and don't know where to begin especially with adjusting the dashpot.
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Looking for the correct carb for a 1946 dodge coupe with fluid drive. Was going to rebuild the one on it that is causing a stutter at between 1100-1200 rpm (Smooths right out at highway cruising speed) until running the numbers and found it was wrong. Stromberg. It has a BXVD-2 when it should have a BXVD-3. So would rather get the correct carb and go from there. This car is now 3 weeks new to me, had sat for many years, and am going through the bugs bit by bit. Thanks in advance for any help
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Thanks for the help. I will crawl under the car tomorrow. The single diagram in the shop manual is not the best. These pictures will help a lot.
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With all the help on the links archived here I would like to thank all the folks for the great advice on pulling the drums of my newly acquired 46 dodge coupe and getting the rear brakes in top order. Now time to move onto another problem. Can't find any info on it. The parking brake band is not doing squat to hold the car an inkling. Not good in a fluid drive car. Have searched high and low for any link to show just how hard an issue this will be to fix. Any help appreciated. Pictures even better. This car sat unused for close to 10 years and I am working through issues. So the parking brake band is next followed by getting rid of the 1000-1400 rpm stutter/shimmy/ on take off. Thanks in advance for all the help.
1949 Buick Road Master model 70 starter issue?
in Buick - Post War
Posted
Questions I will ask. I will go over that more in the morning but looking at the starter I am saying no to that based on the fact it was painted the same time the motor was rebuilt and painted. Solenoid and relay I will look at in detail tomorrow.The starting system was functioning quite well outside it hanging up a couple times. It started on one spin every time with the pedal depressed. Then out of the blue it started running real rough with loss of power and stalling and after changing the ballast, it is now staying engaged on the flywheel by the sound described in the shop manual