bhemi

Exactly what he said. Those bolts were meant to be reused. Using a thread chaser NOT A TAP to clean the threads is a good idea and lube the bolt head to get proper torque.

I am having the engine built by a 40 year race engine builder. I am using a Stage #3 TA cam and the heads will be ported and we have roller lifters. If you having any recommendations for block hugging headers (space is tight) let me know.

I got a little too aggressive at HAMB about what constituted a traditional hot rod. I didn't like guys with a 'glass 32 roadster, a purchased frame ,a crate Chevy and a turbo 350 telling me they were purists. This is the latest on the floor. Once we fit the toe boards and cowl section we will form a center section and install it with nutserts . The outboard sections will be welded in and merged with the new rocker panels we made. Trunk section is in progress as well as mini-tubs in the trunk to fit more tire. We got the power window kit in from Nu-Relics. Way better than those cheesy wire ones. Really nice USA product https://www.nu-relics.com/chevrolet-s/206.htm

I have not done one but I removed the fixed quarter windows on my '37 coupe that way. The string method should work fine. There are no brackets or screws just the rubber.

Like front and rear windows they are held in by the rubber seal. Take a razor sharp instrument and cut the outside portion of the seal and pop outward. The rest of the seal will pull out once the glass is out. https://www.vendio.com/stores/bobsclassicautoglass/item/rubber-seals-weather-stripping/1937-1938-buick-century-specia/lid=44171213 The link shows you a pic.

Good comment on checking for wiring. Fiberglass is an abomination and should NEVER be used in patching metal. I have seen way too many chicken wire, bondo and fiberglass repairs in my life already. New welding technology has put MIG and TIG machines in the hands of hobbyists. Learn to weld or pay a professional. That patch is a sub-$100 fix not including paint match. It can be butt welded and 95%+ metal finished before primer and paint.

It would be easy for a good body man to sand that to bare metal and TIG weld in a plug patch. The screw holes are small enough to be welded shut without patching. That is a permanent fix. Matching black is not too difficult and if it's blended in properly it would be hard to see.

Some progress. We had to make new floors as the Tremec is a large transmission. We made a dummy drive shaft out of exhaust pipe and put u-joints on it. Under the black cloth is the transmission. A wooden pattern was made and the strengthening ribs from the original floor were copied exactly. The little holes are where it was bolted to the pattern. A "u" shaped die was made for body of the ribs and a round one for the ends and then it was put through the Pullmax. The floor will be in three pieces. The left and right sides will be welded in and the center section will be a removable tunnel. The center section will come up like stock and we will be using the stock bench seat. The cardboard "box" with the three arms is the below floor pedal assembly model we made up.

In Canadian dollars well past $5000. We did the doors several times. The "waffle" sound deadening in the doors was a bear to get out. We heated and scraped it several times first.

I need a 1937 driver's side door handle with key and a 1937 single lever (not "T" handle) trunk handle with key. PM me here or bghemingson@gmail.com

Isn't the '36 the last year with wood in the interior framing? I own a '37 coupe and share quite a few parts with '38 is '36 a one off or does it share parts with '35? The three window design is gorgeous.

. I think a great car can be built modifying the stock frame to accommodate modern IFS and open diff and using a nailhead. A lot of the stuff I am doing is overkill but I wanted to do it once in my life. I could have saved a ton of money by using a small block and an automatic but what is the fun in that? I am keeping as much of the body and interior as stock as possible at great expense. Lol.

Auburnseeker is showing you the best one I have seen. Buy it.

https://www.nostalgicreflections.com/ These guys made me a brilliant reproduction of the center badge. It is going to cost $$$ but when they used my original as a pattern they destroyed it and made a batch of 10 - 12. They also reproduced the 1937 McLauglin Buick grill badge. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1937-Buick-Chrome-Center-Hood-Hinge-Strip-40-Series-NEW/401798603599?epid=5009208525&hash=item5d8d10234f:g:ZrYAAOSwQhFdFlED This is your hood center line piece. The part that goes down the center of the grill cowl is in most cases bent to hell as it goes under the cowl. I have two. Expect to find one and pay lots to have fixed. It is stainless as well.

We got the pin out and soaked it. Still won't budge. We even heat cycled it . Next step threading a screw into the cylinder and gentle application of a slide hammer. Not trying to preserve the cylinder just get it out.

Update. The T56 magnum 6 speed is different from the predecessor TKO which was used in the last generation Camaros etc. So I needed a new bell-housing. We took the entire floor out but will reuse about 2/3 of it. We need to fab a a center "hump" because the T56 is a big transmission. It will only be about 2" above the stock floor pan and I will still be able to use the stock bench.

Thanks. that is exactly what we were looking for

I am trying to remove the lock cylinder to re-chrome the door handle and it will not budge. I do not have a key. Is a key necessary to remove the lock cylinder?

Not really 5th and 6th are overdrive gears 6th being 0.63:1. Rear end ration is 3.73:1 Tires ~ 28" tall. Red line is 5500 or better with roller rockers. Weight of a coupe was 3380 lbs. I bet a nailhead and T56 weighs 250 lbs less than the 248 and three speed. I think a a fuel injected 401 0.30 over with 11:1 compression and roller rockers should make 400+ horsepower. I think top speed is 170 mph+ not that I have anywhere to drive it that fast. What I want is to loaf along using all the nailhead torque at 70 mph.

This what we came up with to allow me to keep the cool look of the old gauge package and add a tach without going to an ugly set of off the shelf round gauges set in a board like so many resto-mods do. The T56 allows for a sensor that runs a digital signal speedometer so we will go with that or a GPS unit. The drawings are out to Classic Instruments for pricing.

You get a tiny bit of discoloration but flash rust is minimal. The car was last on the road in the late '50's or early '60's all the filler on the car is lead. Zero plastic. The minor body work on fenders and patches is all being TIG welded and metal finished so we are leaving it bare until all that is done.

And this is what it looked like a year ago. going on the trailer

Here is what it looks like underneath. We dipped the body at Redi-Strip. The amount of rust was minimal.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Buick-Radiator-medallion-Cloisonne-1937-maybe-other-years-too/113887171822?hash=item1a843454ee:g:AZIAAOSw4RBde~td They now have them on eBay. i get mine on Saturday so will be able to comment on quality then. Again, I have ZERO commercial interest other than I bought one.