kclark
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Posts posted by kclark
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42 minutes ago, Stude Light said:
Any suggestions on where I can get some new (not NOS) discs made up for a Light Six drive shaft? It takes a stack of three at each end.
Scott
I ordered the material from Restoration Stuff. I ordered it Sunday night and received it today (Wednesday).
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We I have access to my own laser so I made my own template.
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1 minute ago, Spinneyhill said:
There was a thread somewhere recently where those discs were replaced with new. But was it Stude or Dodge Brothers? I can't recall. I'll have a search.
I have new material, they are sitting on them in the pics.
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1 minute ago, Spinneyhill said:
If it were me, I would just "have a look at the problem" = take it to pieces to see if there is something I can do to get some function. The repairman might really mean " it will cost more than you are prepared to pay", or "more than a reasonable replacement would cost", i.e. it is probably not economic.
I have looked into it, it seems pretty simple but I don't know enough about them. The problem it seems is this is very different from what most of you have. I may be wrong, but most are a "standard" trico half moon shape that is mounted inside.
I know that there is a piece of the pot metal broke where a bolt goes into that helps attach it to the window frame. I'm looking into possible solutions there.
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As you can see from my pics, my holes are elongated. Is there a standard pattern that is used, is it close enough or wing it?
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Here are photos of mine. Anyone know what kind it is?
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I have spoken to wiperman and he said that he can't fix my wiper motor from my 1929 Dictator. It is the cylinder style and not the half moon. So I am looking to see if anyone had a cylinder style that they changed to the half moon trico and how bad the holes lined up.
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My '29 Dictator currently has 6.5X19. I was looking at Coker and they don't show this size. What is the correct size?
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1929 Dictator 6
Is there a standard size for these. I want to procure one before I drop the pan to clean out any sludge. And where is the best place to get one?
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On 9/21/2017 at 4:46 PM, Mark Huston said:
Pancake oil filters, to my knowledge, are not being reproduced. If you can find one it will be an original one that is over 80 years old. Anything that old will be dangerous to your engine to try and use. The only alternative is to get one of the old style reproduction canister oil filters that have been machined to use a spin-on modern oil filter hidden inside the canister. They look authentic and hid the modern spin-on oil filter.
I saw in another post where you also were showing a picture, but it is no longer visible. I would like to see how your friend kept his pancake for looks and added a spin-on out of site.
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On 9/22/2017 at 6:37 AM, automaschinewerks said:
I know the way my post turned out with the pics and text is a little mixed up but I put in there that I just replaced the speedo cable in my Erskine, it was from a model a ford came from macs ford restoration parts. it had that end at the trans. the round part is .185" diameter, which is 3\16". I got a bunch of nos speedo cables from 40-50s domestic cars that I thought would work, but the round is .150"
forget about my pictures, they didn't come through
I looked at macs auto but they don't have the length. Theirs is 61 1/2" and I need 70"
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I'm thinking of going the route pod leaving this pancake in place and hiding a spin on underneath. Those of you that have done this, can you post some photos that show how you went about it?
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My speedometer cable is broke. The end that goes to the gauge is a typical square end and it looks good. the end that broke is at the tranny.
Is this end an odd end? Aren't most square at both end?
It's out of a '29 Dictator
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14 hours ago, keninman said:
Mine is using a canister. I was able to buy an NOS one for less thsn $40.
Where did you find your canister holder?
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5 hours ago, automaschinewerks said:
check out the filter on the firewall of my 26, pics I just posted now. its the rectangular box with the lines coming to it, between the horn and the small engine gas tank
I couldn't bring up the engine pics
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1 hour ago, dictator27 said:
Pancake style bypass oil filter. The tee fitting is on the oil pump directly below the distributor. The oil goes from the pump through the filter and returns to the oil pan through the fitting at the bottom of the block. The line from the left of the tee goes to the oil pressure gauge.
I thought it might be the oil filter but I had never seen a side mount before. Looks like a booger to replace without getting oil everywhere. So 2 questions, Where is a good place to get a new pancake filter and does it make more sense to convert to a modern style canister like keninman has?
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I have had several mechanics and car restorations guys look at this and they can't tell me what it is. To me I would think it would have something to do with the oil, but certainly not an filter as I wouldn't think it would be on there sideways.
Oh by the way, I am referring to the larger flat black component located below the horn. As you can see, copper tubing runs from the oil pan thru it.
So...What is it???
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On 9/18/2017 at 8:27 PM, starlightcoupe said:
If your fittings came apart without stripping and there are no breaches in the air line to the dash, I can see no advantage to fixing something that isn't broken, regardless of its appearance. I have no personal experience at refurbishing these units but, if you feel it necessary, or simply desire the peace of mind, I would recommend KM Lifestyle Mfg. http://mykmlifestyle.com/King_Seeley_Fuel_Sender.html
I was looking over the tank unit again. the air inlet is slightly bent but not kinked. the airline and the fuel line turn just a little at the top of the "cap" of the unit. Would this affect the working of the gauge? Just wondering before I start putting it all back together. If it would, I would rather buy another or send this one off for restoration.
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My speedo now works pretty well. I sprayed it down with some WD40 and now all gears turn and the mileage rolls. I think it's good to go.
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So is the "outer" tube still in the steering column you think?
When I took the assembly out, there were 3 tubes, the lights being the center, the middle was advance spark I think, and then the 3rd being close I think. If it is the actual outer tube, how do I get it out? There is a nut under it but not sure it that would be correct or not. Surely somebody on the forum knows. Stude8 knew but he hasn't been active for 2 years on here.
UPDATE:
After looking back over everything I realized the picture below shows the outer tube of the assembly without the baseplate that was broken off. I have pulled out the outer tube and I now have a baseplate being made.
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Did you have to replace your cable?
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Who did your baseplate?
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16 minutes ago, keninman said:
Since it was a funeral coach the owner may not have cared about the lights working and from what I understand unless you plan to use the hand crank you do not need the spark retard lever. The previous owner of the one I have never aimed to take the car out after dark so they had modified tail/turn bulbs for headlights.
The base plate in the pictures looks like it was cast from the same crappy pop metal that the carburetor and interior door hardware were. From the pic, if you could get the dimensions it would be a simple task for any competent machine shop to replicate. From what you have they can get the depth of the spacers, from the column they can get the dimension of the housing. Show them this pic and I'll bet they can make you one.
The question is how do I make sure that everything lines up correctly to go into the steering column. Also if this plates screws and sandwiches the lever assembly, isn't it also brazed to the steering column?
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33 minutes ago, keninman said:
That's an awful big cable to break, ouch. Ya might want to lube the housing and test the speedometer before reinstalling.
What kind of lube?
and I've got to figure out how to get the speedo out.
Wiper Motor Shot
in Studebaker, Erskine & Rockne
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Thanks automaschinewerks...If I can't get mine repaired I'll look at installing a Trico. They seem to be more readily available and repairable. Did it fit the existing holes pretty well or was there any modifying that needed done?