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Posts posted by kclark
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For a 1929 Dictator, which Dykes edition would be the best one to buy?
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***UPDATE***
She is running again!!!
I got the starter back from the shop. There are 2 positive and 2 negative terminals inside and 2 were loose. They tightened those up and clean it up a little. Put it back in and it turned over. Now for the just turning off part. I had help from a friend mechanic who works on hot rods and older cars in general. He helped me get the starter back in. We cranked it up and it ran for a minute or two while we talked. We were discussing it cutting off and while we were talking, well it shut off. We got to looking at the distributor and coil and we weren't getting anything. We looked at the wires coming from the "key" switch and one of the wires was slightly loose. We tightened it up and that seems to be it. It even cranks up A LOT faster now.
I am a HAPPY camper!!! Hopefully it warms up again in a few days so I can get it out and wash it down.
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48 minutes ago, keninman said:
Watch several videos on hand cranking first. It is great way to break an arm or damage a fender. I prefer push starting but yours is probably awful heavy.
Yep tried to push start it but we couldn't get it going fast enough.
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On 4/1/2018 at 5:09 PM, rbk said:
Pull the starter and see if the bendix is jammed.
It wasn't jammed
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On 4/2/2018 at 4:03 PM, Spinneyhill said:
You say there is no resistance on turning it with the crank handle?
I tried it again and I am getting resistance. What was going on, I was not pushing the hand crank in enough to engage the motor.
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I pulled the starter and put it on the ground and hooked it up to a spare 6 volt battery and it seems to run as it should without any smoke. But for safe measure, I'm sending it off to have it checked. When I get it back I'll go from there.
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One question that I have is this. I was driving down the road and the engine cutoff. No sputtering or spitting or anything. Just shuts off. I pull off the road and that's when this issue started. So would this make the engine stop? In my head and everything that I know (which ain't much), I say no.
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I'll do that and report back
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1 minute ago, rbk said:
Try http://aerrebuild.com .
Jason knows Studebakers and has been helpful to many Studebaker people.
Did you try to hand crank the engine to make sure it is not locked up?
I put the handle in it or just spins freely, no resistance
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1 hour ago, rbk said:
I'll keep searching, but right now most of what comes up is batteries and not starter motors. Will I find a while replacement or better just trying to find rebuild parts?
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I believe the starter motor is bad. When checking out with someone pushing the for pedal, it smokes.
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1 hour ago, rbk said:
If you are not a mechanic , I would not mess with it.
Batteries are dangerous and shorting out can lead to fires and
damage. Do not work in your garage , go outside.
Where are you located?
One of our readers with experience in your area may volunteer to come and help you. If no-one steps up maybe someone can post a step by step
procedure using a good voltmeter to check voltage drops to isolate bad grounds and switch continuity.
Right now the car is stuck outside anyway. I can get my voltage meter out and do some checking I just want to make sure that I am looking in the correct places. But if anyone would like to help out, I won't turn it down. I am just north of Charlotte, NC.
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5 hours ago, studeboy said:
Doesn't this car have separate floor starter switch? Is the current going through the switch to the starter? Try running a jumper cable from the neg terminal of the battery to the cable on the side of the starter. If the starter turns over it may be the switch. The switch on my 28 Dictator died once. I took it apart and found a cocoon inside it. Removed the cocoon and it worked just fine.
Using keninman's picture above, would that be to the nut on the starter switch?
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1 hour ago, Spinneyhill said:
Are you getting voltage at the starter? At the ignition switch?
Check earth = ground to chassis and between chassis and engine and between engine and starter.
This is where I have to learn as I'm not a gearhead. First off, am I using a test light or voltage meter? and then I assume (if using test light) that I am clamping to ground and then putting the other end on the starter? and then switch also? and is this with the battery hooked up?
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Someone told me to jump the starter. How does one do that?
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I did but seems to be good too
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Optima battery shows good as I took it and had it tested. Car still won't do ANYTHING.
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I have the battery charged but still nothing
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I'm using a NOCO Genius battery charger
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I have 2 in the car and both are dead. I finally got back and I one on the charger now.
And the thing of it is I drove it 3 miles to the gas station no problems. Filled up and started back and 3 miles later, it just dies.
And I might need to learn how to hand crank to start it.
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Nice day today so I got out the '29 Dictator to get on the road and put gas in it. On the way back it shut off. Red optima is dead. Won't hit a lick. Wondering what it could be that's draining the battery.
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I am finally getting around (maybe in the next few weeks) to install the correct running board trim for my '29 Dictator that I received from L&L. My question is can some of you post pictures of what your corners look like?
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I received 2 optima batteries and installed one. What a difference. My battery is registering around 9 on the ammeter. I see that now. My old one which was a new battery from AutoZone registered right at 3. I really didn't pay any attention to the meter readings until today.
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Dykes Manual
in Studebaker, Erskine & Rockne
Posted
Thank you. I knew it had to be a few years later but didn't know exactly how far out.