kclark
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Posts posted by kclark
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On 11/23/2017 at 9:27 PM, Grimy said:
From what you've told us, if the car were mine I'd run one Optima and carry another fully charged one to change out at the end of the event before the drive home. Optimas are one-hand installation and all you need is a 1/2-9/16 combination wrench.
I haven't decided whether to install the switch or not but wouldn't that aid in the quoted scenario? install both batteries and then just turn the switch from 1 to the other without a wrench.
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1 hour ago, Matt Harwood said:
Just make sure you're using heavy cables, not the pre-made 12-volt cables they sell at the auto parts store. Most electrical problems on 6-volt cars can be traced back to inadequately sized battery cables and bad grounds. There are shops that will make you heavy battery cables (0 or 00 gauge) to whatever length you need and whatever ends you want. I don't like the look of that switch for 6-volts (half the voltage means twice the current) and still think that you should analyze the problem and try other solutions before throwing more batteries at the problem. You still haven't clearly identified what your problem is--is the car simply discharging a bit with the lights on, is it running out of electricity and dying while you drive at night, or is it sputtering because there's not electricity to fire the plugs? Three different problems with three different solutions, only one of which is "more battery."
We can help better if we understand the problem better. It sounds like you're just concerned that your battery is showing a discharge at night when you're driving in parades. I'd say that's not an issue unless that's all you do with the car.
I have checked my cables, all is good there (at least I don't see anything out of sorts). What I have been experiencing is the car seems to be discharging with the lights on. If I turn the car off after stopping on the way back to the shop at night, it grunts to start back up. and it will drive a little ways and loose power after sputtering.
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8 hours ago, mike6024 said:
There are marine battery swwitches, 1, both, 2 or off
I think you use "both" when you know you are in a charging situation. When discharging just use one or the other so you keep one in reserve.
I looked at those earlier today. I assume that you use 1 or 2 for ordinary driving. Then use 1+2 for night driving or cold morning starts? If I decide to add this, does NAPA make battery cables?
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12 minutes ago, Spinneyhill said:
Did they specify battery reserve capacity in 1929?
My 1930 Dodge Brothers Eight Instruction Book specifies a battery of three cells, 15-plate, six-volt, 100 ampere-hour capacity... So it looks like they specified the RC but not the cold cranking amps (CCA)!
I have know idea one that one. I don't have a book like that. I just ordered 2 optima batteries and I'm looking at battery switchers but I think I'll just wire them up parallel.
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16 minutes ago, Grimy said:
Long stretches at constant speed will not deplete your battery nearly as much as stop and go driving.
This may have been my problem the last 2 times I had it out. It was for Christmas parades. Ran great during them, but afterwards I had a little trouble.
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As was talking with an old timer yesterday about how he had is 6 volt car wired up. He has 2 6volt batteries in it and somehow he has the ability to use both to crank the car and he can switch to use Battery A and if needed, he can switch to Battery B. He has one of the green knobs on the floorboard to do the switching. I was wondering if anyone has done this as my car ('29 Dictator) runs fine during the day, but it will not have good power when it gets dark enough to have to turn the lights on. I've read one article and it intrigues me but not sure if keeping both 6 volts together all the time like it appears to be stated with be bad.
Anyone else done something like this?
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I am still in the market for a wiper motor, that is working, for my 1929 Dictator. The one that I had was mounted on the exterior of the windshield. Does anybody have one they can part with or know where I can get one?
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Do we know of any alternative websites to get one of these lights. I ordered one last week and then emailed last night to ask when it would be shipped and this morning I got a refund email from PayPal. Seller stated he was not able to fill the order at this time.
I wound up ordering from J and L Enterprise for $60 plus shipping.
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18 minutes ago, rbk said:
Let us know how it works out!
Many people are looking for this but had problems.
Robert Kapteyn
What kind of problems do I need to be looking out for?
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Spinneyhill,
Thank you for the images. I have been looking over them, but I don't anything mentioned about a jig like was mentioned above. Also, would the Parking Brake band be more similar to the external or internal band?
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Do any of your Dykes books show how to change the brake lining on the brake ring at the back of the transmission?
I have a 1929 Studebaker Dictator and I can't find the right book.
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On 11/3/2017 at 6:46 PM, dictator27 said:
Any Dykes manual from the 30s or 40s has the procedure for replacing woven lining. Pretty much seen one seen them all.
Terry
Do you know of a place that has these. I have looked but can't seem to come up with what I need for certain. I'd hate to spend money on a book and then it not have what I need. I don't mind spending the money if I know it has the information that I need.
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I now have the material, I just need to find the instructions. I have looked up several Dykes manuals, but I have yet to find the correct instructions. I also haven't seen any mention of a jig.
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As far as the levers, email Steven Munts at srmunts@mindspring.com. He has sold his business and no longer makes them but he knows who bought the equipment to continue to make them.
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I pulled the cable from the tranny and it is snapped off again, so there is definitely something going on with it. I'll have to study over this before I jump into it.
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UPDATE
The gas gauge is no longer clogged. I put king seeley fluid in it up to the reserve mark. I put the airline back on and took the gas cap off. It equalized out and showing about 13 gallons which is what I put in it the other day. I'm not sure how big my tank is but the gauge says Full is 16 gallons. But it is working again.
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On 11/8/2017 at 3:31 PM, keiser31 said:
You may have to wait for an answer as the guy is pretty busy from what I understand.
He actually replied quite quickly to my email. He is sending me new trim and rubber. I sent a check out today and he said I should get it in 1-2 weeks. That's quick enough for me.
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I have brake cleaner in the glass tube and the brass tube. I'll let it setup overnight.
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1 minute ago, rbk said:
They did my fuel sender and I have it installed. They did a great job and the price wasn't too bad I thought.
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To add to my list of odds and ends to work on, I believe I may need a new muffler. I think the current one is 40+ years old. Some of you may be able to hear and tell in the video below. If I need one, is there a particular type, brand that I should look for?
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54 minutes ago, Tinindian said:
Of course it can get blocked. You need to clean it and refill it according to the King Seeley instructions. Make sure you don't lose the calibrating wire.
What can I clean the inside with? I tried to get the glass tube out but no luck so I abandoned that idea as I didn't want to ruin it. I know that when I put fluid in the back brass tube, it doesn't come to the front it just fills up the back. If I blow in either the front or back tube you can't feel it out the other side. I put a small wire to the bottom of the glass tube and you can see and feel some grit.
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Thank you. I'll definitely give them a call.
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I am looking for the metal trim that goes around the running boards for a 1929 Studebaker Dictator.
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Can a hydrostatic fuel gauge be blocked with something. I was trying to look at fixing mine as it doesn't register anything. It's out of king seeley fluid. I added some to the back but it doesn't register on the front. It just fills up the back brass tube. I only have one filament but it's like there is a blockage to prevent the fluid from getting to the front of the gauge
ASC Tour - LED Brake Light Bar
in Studebaker, Erskine & Rockne
Posted
UPDATE
I got mine in last week and installed. I have a disconnect on it so I can remove it when I don't want it visible. It works very well.