kclark
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Posts posted by kclark
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I think I found the problem after getting the levers and tubes out. The entire baseplate was apparently broken and removed and that's why it moves. From the article that Bill Cannon wrote about getting everything out and fixed, reproductions can be bought. Where can they be bought?
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What did you use to seal around the mounting plate when you reinstalled it?
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3 minutes ago, keninman said:
I first tried soldering and failed. I ended up running rubber gas line all of the way down to the sending unit top. My gauge works pretty good now. Below was a test of the unit before reinstalling in the tank. I should mention that I did have to purchase new brass screws. They had built up varnish on the threads that protruded into the tank. I ruined many while getting them out. I shortened the new screws to not project so far inside the tank.
Looking at your "test" picture, I can't tell, did you put the entire sending unit in the jar?
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On 9/4/2017 at 3:32 PM, starlightcoupe said:
Kevin,
Regarding your inoperative fuel gauge, I posted this on the Studebaker Drivers Club Forum, but others here may find it helpful as well.
starlightcoupe,
I wound up having to drop my tank as it had a small leak at the neck that needed to be fixed. So I took out the tank unit. It looks a lot like the one in your picture. Is there any reason for it to be cleaned up before reinstalling?
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No longer needed. At least at this time.
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On 9/14/2017 at 9:20 PM, 29jester said:
Looks to me like the headlight switch is put together wrong which is easy to do. I will take pictures of my '29 Commander to see if this helps.
I'd be real interested in seeing this pictures.
I was able to loosen the steering wheel just enough to see a little behind it as I didn't disassemble the entire column from bottom to top. All of the levers and baseplate seem to be intact. while I had things loosened, all levers seem to function/move properly although I don't seem to have positive stops on the light lever control.
Do anyone know what part actually keeps the whole cap dial, baseplate and levers from rotating entirely? I know I'm missing/not seeing something but just can't figure out what.
Are there in members in the Charlotte, NC area that has taken a steering wheel apart be up for helping me with this???
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From what I can tell, the lighting switch at the bottom of the steering column does not rotate so that should be a good thing. That would mean that the switch itself at the top of the steering wheel is rotating possibly from the top of it. What is the proper way to get into the steering wheel. There are 4 screws under the steering wheel. I assume that I remove those 4 and that starts the disassembly process.
After more searching, I found this thread: http://forums.aaca.org/topic/168263-1928-ge-dictator-throttle-spark-and-light-levers/?tab=comments#comment-820933
About halfway down there are 4 pages that were graciously uploaded by Stude8 that tell the process of removing the steering wheel and the levers.
I just hope after tearing into that I can figure out what the problem is and if there is actually something broken that I can either repair the part or find a new one.
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1 hour ago, starlightcoupe said:
The STAMPED Serial Number (1465019) should be the VIN number used for registration purposes. The EMBOSSED body tag (GLW-1 2960) should have never been used for registration, and I am unaware of any jurisdiction that ever did so. It merely reveals the model and whether it's a sedan, coupe, roadster, etc. It's entirely probably Patrick's hearse, being a coach built professional car never did have a Studebaker body tag; but the chassis (frame, running gear and cowl) never would have left the factory without a Serial Plate on the left frame rail behind the front tire. There are also casting numbers on the engine block and head, but these are simply casting numbers, NOT an engine number. The engine number, like the Serial Number, will be STAMPED in to the side of the block. Many jurisdictions at one point did register by engine number, but none any more.
I show neither of those unfortunately. I know it was titled in Michigan and Indiana using the engine block number. North Carolina won't use an engine block number, so I have to have the DMV order one. I don't think it is too terribly bad, it just takes about a month turnaround. And then I'll just have a new VIN on the car instead of a nice antique VIN/serial on the car.
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I only found the 2 on the engine. No firewall and no frame.
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Headlights Video It's a little rough as I do have 1 headlight burned out. I had to upload this in 2 parts as it was too big to do it in one full video but hopefully you get the idea.
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16 minutes ago, keninman said:
That is difderent than mine. It should come apart so you ca clean the contacts though.
I wound tearing into it and one of the contacts on the inside needed to be cleaned. I just finished up with it. 2 hours later, I got 'er DONE!!!
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I am in need of a brake light switch for a 1929 Studebaker Dictator/Commander hopefully like the one pictured with a pull plunger between the terminals.
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UPDATE.
For the brake lights, I jumped the brake switch and the brake light comes on. I believe the brake switch is bad. When I pull the "plunger" out to complete the circuit my ohms meter shows nothing, so that tells me there is something wrong with the brake switch.
And once I can figure out how to upload a video of my headlights to explain those I'll do that.
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I think mine were taken off.
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Can someone provide me a picture of what the serial number on a 1929 Studebaker should look like. I certainly do not see one on mine. I'm trying to get it ready to be titled.
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My lights WORK!!! It turns out that the steering wheel "center" with the advance, close and the lights, the lever for the lights must all be rotated counter-clockwise. I believe that the there is a loose nut or something going on. If I rotate the lever until it stops and then rotate the center then the lights come on.
Still working on the brake light though.
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I have yet to find the stop switch. Is it wrapped up in a covering similar to the wires?
How can I check (properly) the lighting switch for the headlights? According to the diagram there are 3 wires going to the headlights.
Looking at your diagram again, I keep looking at the lighting switch. You do have 3 wires going to the headlights but I don't think I have tilt. If I do I don't know it.
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Sorry I say it in my tag line so I thought I put it there.
'29 Dictator 6
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What is the procedure to tighten up the parking brake? I received my repair manuals today and they don't specify anything regarding the parking brake.
The way it is now, it's not doing me any good.
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So I got a little farther, the park lights (lights on the cowl) are working after putting in new bulbs and the park light in the back works as well after new bulb. The headlights and the brake lights are not working. My ammeter does work when the car is running so no problems there.
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I appears after doing some more looking that the lines are good. I believe it needs rebuilding but not sure if it is operating correctly or not, let me explain. With the motor in my hand and connected to the vacuum, the motor will rotate upon pulling the lever. It will rotate one direction only. If I push the lever back in, it will rotate the other direction, rinse then repeat. So I'm not sure if it only operated this way or if it actually did go back and forth without driver intervention.
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Here is the wiring switch. It looks old but appears in good shape. I don't how to remove it or check it properly.
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Found it!!!
Everything looks connected together. I don't know what the proper inspection technique is.
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buying a stude
in Studebaker, Erskine & Rockne
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And figured out why the speedometer didn't work. Or at least I know one reason why it wouldn't work. I won't know for sure until I get a new cable and my gas tank back.