john hess
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Posts posted by john hess
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Ok... First half of problem solved..!!! *Note to self.*.. Mark wires as you disconnect them. !! Memory is not what it used to be... Here's what happened... At some point during the past 6 years I checked the harness with a battery and test light for continuity on each wire.. all fine. For reasons unknown I had the two fuse holders apart at the same time. Probably dropped a fuse on the dirty barn floor, then bent over to pick it up... Guess what.... Put fuse back in each holder and switched the contact ends in the holder !!! Thats why rear marker lights were on constant and brake lights only worked when switch was pulled one notch. At least now I know harness is good... Just have to rewrap it now. Next I will try Bloo's suggestion on the dual dash indicator light situation... John
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Sorry to hear that but glad to hear at same time... If it makes any sense..!! You guys sure took a beating this simmer..... Glad you are ok...
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Here is the switch.... Red shows (+) in from battery. This is normal.... Green shows (+) out to dash lights and tail lights... Not normal ?.... Light switch is off !! Burnt switch ? Yes or no ?…....
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Ok..... Here is where Im at tonight.... I have unwrapped the harness looking for open shorts or breaks in the coating.... Nothing... What I did find is that most, if not all of the soldered splice joints look over-heated.... The cloth wrap looks burnt sort of.. only at these joints. Not sure if its from the tape that wraps each joint or dirt, or both. Otherwise wires look like new with all colored marking visible... Talking to PO is rather difficult as he is below ground 10 years.. But, I was told they (father in law and his dad) used 12v to jump start vehicles alot around the farm.. (6v tractors mostly)... Soo... I think the headlight switch is bad....
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Stock piece... With dimensions... Hope it helps.... John
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Carb leaks a little also
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Thanks Bloo for your explanation... Yes, it all makes sense... However, I believe I have an issue with a short. As mentioned earlier, I clipped the old right front t/s wire. It was discolored as on a shorted,overheated situation at some point... Now with new t/s-marker harness installed both sides, I can make signals work, occasionally... Now, blew fuse on brake light side of harness.. (twice) Unwrapped harness from junction block back to brake switch split connection and that joint looks over heated also.. frustrating..... Somewhere I will find a wire rubbed through or hooked backwards... I will eventually find it..... Signals never worked properly as I remember... Thanks for all input. I am working through this one issue at a time...... John
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Ill check the angle on mine tomorrow and send ya a picture... As the gaskets, that sounds about right also...
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Hi Mark.. Im getting closer to the fix. What has surfaced now is this... I recently bought a cheap multi-meter to check continuity..... Well, last night as I was finishing up for the evening, I pulled the ground off the battery as normal lately.... Then, one last check on the wire junction block by the battery, I found that I have VOLTAGE to the junction block !!!! Remember the ground is disconnected.... So, I am sure I have a wire rubbed through on the harness... Will be unwrapping harness tomorrow.... Last thing I wanted to do, but...... Will post results tomorrow.....
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Thanks... I"ll check into that....
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Have bumpetettes.... Just didnt install yet....
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SE Pa..... Beatiful sunset couldnt resist...
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It drives... Starts,stops,turns.... I'll deal with the t/s later.!!!.
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Still cant sort out t/s issue.. got new napa 535 6v 32cp-max4 flasher... nowhere on box does it say neg or pos ground.. would a pos ground flasher work at all or do I have other issues ?..... One thing tonight happened that puzzles me... Turned on marker lights and pulled right socket out from tail light bezel.... Light stayed on....not grounded... Left side pulled out and goes out.. not grounded, this makes sense... Changed sockets, left to right, no change.. right side still lights, ungrounded..... ??????...... Since turn signals were added at some point after factory built, there is no wiring diagram in shop manual to check.. Is this 535 flasher the wrong one ? What are you guys using ?
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Yes, one at a time.... Learning as you go... Tightened up steering box, greased all joints.. went for test drive on 1/2 mile private rd. Handles like new !!.... Left my helper try it out (wife)... Ran out of gas.. now I know where guage is at when that happens !!!.. She did not find this amusing.... Got 10 gallons in, guage shows 3/4... Once again,now I know where "normal" is... On to next issue,... Hold my beer. I got this . .
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Once again I believe its all from a bad ground... New paint and oxidized connections.... Grounded sockets direct to battery, seems to work as intended... Polished brake light switch poles and connectors. Brake lights work better, and brighter.... one BIG discovery also... while trying to adjust a new (used) carb wcd719sa, I just could not get engine to run proper.. seems like not all cylinders firing always.... Very inconsistant.... Pulled plugs, some wet, some black sooty, some brown and dry.... Cleaned all plugs, reinstalled, same issue... Old plug wires, solid core, some rusty ends, some oxidized...... Trip to wire wheel, polished all tips and installed wires...... Runs better than it ever has !!! Smooth idle .. instant start of cold engine last 2 days.... Whooda thunk... ?... 2 weeks to Gettysburg !
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Ok... Wiring experts needed.... Took apart my t/s switch... Cleaned contacts...reassembled.. Signals work fine on left, no markers on.. turn markers on, still ok... But.... I am getting feed back through right signal and it operates as a marker light (t/s filament is dim, no flash) Looking at the switch, Am I missing an insulator between front two (short) contacts ? Looks like that is where my bleed over is happening.... Any thoughts ? I am unwravelling harness slowly,checking for shorts, but maybe this is my problem ??
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What car ?
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Also fixed a charging issue... Had to do the jumper thing on the regulator.. (polarizing or whatever its called)
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I have come to the conclusion that my t/s switch may be the problem. Pricey for a new one, but may remove and try to repair... I stripped back the wires on right side at socket since I have a new pigtail. Wires were discolored as in a short.. If I recall, prior to 1956 they were not required anyway... Gettysburg show only 3 weeks away and Im not quite road ready yet. Got reverse lghts installed and working with temporary ground. Too much paint. Just hate to grind new paint for a grounding point..
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I then put rivnuts in the outer fenders, and reattach with stainless screws... I think the size I used were 10-24...
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Usually the front clip is removed as one piece, but if you drill out the 5 rivets each side, the fenders can be removed separarely. These are the rivets that hold the inner fender wells to the outer..
53 pontiac electrical
in Pontiac Flathead Owners
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All is well.... Yeehaaa !!!.... Everything works as it should... Thanks to all, Charles, Bloo, Summershandy, Oldtech, GaryF.... Signals work, car is charging, brake lights work, fuel guage reads proper...... Car runs better also.... Found coil wires (+-) were reversed... Probably why weak spark and intermittent firing of plugs. Time will tell.... Thanks again, John