HarleyEarlFan

Similar to the link that old-tank posted, I used a piece of 1” copper pipe. The ID of the “L” grade is close to the OD of the insulator. If you cut the pipe with a pipe cutter then it makes a lip that, along with some RTV silicone, keeps it attached. Bill

I’ll bet that you’re going to find that the horn ground collar has disintegrated like mine had done. You can check by removing the ground connection panel (pictured below) from the steering column now before you get started. You might have to use your phone camera to see inside. Bill

It’s been 3 years since I did the work so it’s a little hazy in my memory (like most things). Yes, remove the wheel and loosen/remove the brackets. A review of the rest of my disassembly pictures shows that I left all the wires in the column.

I replaced the horn ground cylinder that way a few years ago.

Removing the defroster duct is a great suggestion. The back of the cluster is one solid piece so it looks to me like I’ll have to remove the whole cluster as a unit. Thanks, Bill

Thanks for the advice. I figured you’d know the answer. The fogging issue is weird though because it’s new ( I’ve owned the car for 8 years) and it gets worse the farther I drive…..

I have the dash top of my 55 Century off to check the wires to the ammeter. It is unclear to me after reading the shop manual, how I would remove the cluster, particularly regarding the temperature gauge. Does the capillary tube come off the gauge or does it have to be removed as a unit from the cylinder head? Also, I have noticed that the glass in front of the temp gauge will occasionally fog up on humid mornings. Can they leak? Thanks! Bill

Thanks for the advice. It’s always easier to do something new if you know you’re headed in the right direction. Bill

Thanks! I’ll give it a go. Looks like the front stud on the left manifold may be a challenge…..

Hello, while crawling over my Century’s engine to change the points last weekend I noticed (in addition to back pain) that I have a partially extruded gasket where the manifold joins the collector pipe on the right side. Initially, I thought I would loosen the crossover pipe and the exhaust pipe from the collector rather than trying to removing the manifold. Now, I’m not so sure. How would you approach it? I do have a lift…. Bill

I had the same problem with a 57 Oldsmobile. My local shop said they couldn't (wouldn't) do the seat covers without the old covers for a pattern. SMS said the same thing via email but I called and talked to someone in customer service (sorry, can't remember the name) and they wound up finding some patterns to use and produced them for me. It took about a year though! They have had my door panels now for a year and a half..... Good luck, Bill

I would be very interested in seeing how you go about doing this as I am facing a similar challenge on a 57 Olds 98 convertible. Best of luck, Bill

Looking for some used seat covers from a 1957 98 two door coupe or convertible to use for a pattern Thanks, Bill

I’m sure it has to do with how the different flashers are wired internally. There are quite a few posts in different forums with similar findings.....same model and some work, some don’t. I do know that I went from three flashers that didn’t make the indicator lights work to now having 3 that do. Of course, I also could have waited and ordered the factory correct flasher but that would have been too easy ? Bill

Spent too much time over the Holidays trying to get the dash turn signal indicator lights to work on my 55 Century so I thought I would revive and add to this old posting. Like the posts above, the signals work fine, front and rear, but the dash indicators have not worked since I've owned the car. Made sure the connections were good and was able to get the lights to work by putting power to the indicator circuit. I tried 2 different 3 prong 550 style signal flasher units without success (NAPA and Buss). The car had a Tung Sol 222 unit in it. It turns out that the cause is that the battery and load terminals are in the reverse position for the plug in the fuse panel. The 3 terminals on the 550 are "X" to the battery, "P" to the dash indicator lights and "L" for the signal lights. A simple spade connector jumper can reverse the X and L into the fuse panel.

Will give it a try. Thanks!

I am having the aluminum refinished on the dash of my 55 Century hardtop and managed, with some difficulty, to get the trim off of the little clips pictured below. I managed to get the trim off without scratching the paint but doubt I can put it back on with equal success without removing the clips. Didn't have any luck compressing and pulling, compressing and pushing or wiggling and shouting....... Any trick to getting them out?

Thanks Matt. Welcome any time. Bill

Hello from Steamy Florida! I'm a retired surgeon with an addiction to 50's GM vehicles. I try to do most of the work on my cars myself and I've seen lots of good information here. I look forward to picking your brains. Just purchased my dream car, a 1953 Skylark, about a month ago. Also have a 55 Century pictured below in my recently completed garage (probably as clean as it will ever be) Bill