moran75
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Posts posted by moran75
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Hi all
Noticed what I perceive to be a slight shudder when going from 2nd to 3rd ....not when shifting down BTW.
As things stand not at a point where trans needs to come out - def can live with it.
My question is whether the Governor might have something to do with it? I ask because that’s def within my skill
level to take out/check/repair ... if it’s a possibility that it’s causing the shudder. On the other hand I don’t want to interfere with it if not ...
BTW modulator is new, vacuum is good , oil level is good, no leaks...
thanks in advance
Kev
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On 1/19/2020 at 2:07 AM, RivNut said:
What happens if you pull the PCV valve from the valve cover and hold your thumb over it? Some cars have PCV valves that screw into the valley cover and use the openings in the valve covers for two breathers. Early nailheads didn't have a PCV valve, they solid valve covers, an oil filler tube (with a breather cap) coming from the front of the valley cover, and a draft tube coming out of the back of the valley cover.
...all sorted...a bit of a convoluted story...reason for all this hoo-ha was that idle screws were having little effect - so was searching for obvious places for vacuum leaks...I put two and two together and got 5 and blamed pcv grommet but as result of advice here I got a feeling I was barking up wrong tree..and I was ...indeed the real culprit was a leaky inlet manifold gasket ..all good now...thanks all
kev
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12 hours ago, RivNut said:
What happens if you pull the PCV valve from the valve cover and hold your thumb over it? Some cars have PCV valves that screw into the valley cover and use the openings in the valve covers for two breathers. Early nailheads didn't have a PCV valve, they solid valve covers, an oil filler tube (with a breather cap) coming from the front of the valley cover, and a draft tube coming out of the back of the valley cover.
I’ll let you know how I get on when back at the car....
Duty calls ...family trip today 😀
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1 hour ago, Bloo said:
It depends....
Back in the day I used to leak check with carb cleaner or brake cleaner a lot. Today, some of it is not flammable. Results can be sketchy at best.
If we assume the carb cleaner is still able to be used as fuel, then a tiny leak should cause the engine to speed up, and a bigger leak should cause it to slow down.
That also assumes that we are idling, and the carb was set with either the old "lean roll" method, or a gas analyzer, and is running at about a 14.7:1 fuel mixture. A little more fuel will speed the engine up (just like backing out the idle screws would), and a lot more will cause a rich loading/miss and slow the engine down.
If the engine was tuned to max RPM with the idle screws (not advisable IMHO, but many people do it), then any extra fuel you add will slow the engine down.
One exception: If the vacuum leak is causing a lean miss somewhere, and adding fuel at the point of the leak brings a misfiring cylinder or two back to life, then the engine will probably speed up regardless of the overall mixture.
That last thing is less likely to occur with PCV because PCV systems are a constant vacuum bleed, and 98% of the time are arranged to mix with the fuel/air coming out of the idle jets. They don't usually kill just one or two cylinders when they leak.
interesting stuff...many thanks
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24 minutes ago, Bloo said:
The end of the PCV hose must seal absolutely to the PCV valve (and the hose nipple at the other end of the PCV hose!). Tape wont do the trick, nor will clamps usually. The hose must be pliable. It must stretch over the nipple and seal on it. Clamps are sometimes used for longevity, but wont help if the hose doesn't seal in the first place.
The connection to the crankcase vapors (via a grommet) is less critical. If it leaks, the engine won't know the difference, although it will probably ooze oil vapor.
Aha...see what you mean re grommet ...I was thinking it had to be 100% air tight...
So maybe carb cleaner is getting in through the clamp and each end of my pcv hose - nipple at one end and valve at other
but I was thinking that revs would go up, rather than down when source of leak sprayed?
kevin
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Hi Bernie
thanks for response.
can I check one thing - if I’m spraying carb cleaner directly onto PCV valve and it’s grommet and RPMs change (reduce in this case ), then carb cleaner is getting past the grommet/seal - which shouldnt be possible if grommet/valve make a good seal?
Thanks in advance
kevin
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Hi all
I appear to have a vacuum leak at the PCV valve /grommet...
I say that because RPMs drop (not increase) when I spray with carb cleaner...car in Park , not Drive.
Both valve and grommet have been replaced - but rpms still drop with the spray...
Is there a way making a better vacuum seal? I see wrapping valve with electrical tape has been suggested on the forum ...anyone tried that ?
any opinions /experience welcome
kev
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Hi all
my heat/air system has never worked properly, but that’s ok - I can live without either...not a priority ...
BUT what I have done is break off the vacuum nipple at the heat door diaphragm...so I now def have a vacuum leak..and possibly others hence system not working.
As I’m in no rush to repair everything , but want to avoid performance issues no matter how small or inaudible to untrained ear, how about plugging the ‘main’ vacuum hose from the T at back of carb...therefore isolating the whole heat/AC system ?
is that feasible or would it create unforeseen problems?
Thanks in advance
kev
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Hi all
hear me out on this one🥴
my heat/air system has never worked properly, but that’s ok - I can live without either...not a priority ...currently researching , will get around to it one day..
BUT what I have done is break off the vacuum nipple at the heat door diaphragm...so I now def have a vacuum leak..
This got me thinking....I potentially already have other leaks elsewhere in system...
As I’m in no rush to repair everything , but want to avoid performance issues no matter how small or inaudible to untrained ear, how about plugging the ‘main’ vacuum hose from the T at back of carb...therefore isolating the whole heat/AC system ?!
Thanks in advance
kev
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Hi and happy NY
At some point soon I’ll need to get to the back of the heater/ACcontrol assembly to check/repair vacuum hoses and cables etc.
A previous reconnaissance mission suggested access from front consol won’t work as not enough room to twist unit or pull out completely?
removing dash pad was next thought but radio would be in the way? Or maybe going in from the side some how ?
Learning from any previous experience out there would be most welcome!
Thanks in advance
Kev
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Hi all
I came across this Riv today at the UK’s biggest classic car trade show - in contention for the Classic American Magazine (UK) car of the year award - one of the last six in the race..I think it’s a 67?
I’ll let you know if it won...
By the way I’ve met the owner before and asked if he’s a member of the ROA - He’s not , and despite my ‘encouragement’ he still isn’t...I’ll keep trying ..kev
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..i should add that when the mechanic got the pinion flange off he showed it to me and pointed out it was 'grooved' - is that's the right word - and added that therefore the new seal might not work on its own ...recommended the sleeve
Admittedly i have no idea how everything goes together back there😀... i'm just taking him on his word...
Cheers
Kev
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4 hours ago, telriv said:
Kev,
I don't know IF it matters, BUT the attached shows for a 8.2 BOP (Buick/Olds/Pontiac) did you check the specs??? Your rear end is 9 3/8ths. not 8.2
nope, didnt check the specs as didnt have any specs myself - just trusted the website as it states its appropriate for a 65 Riv ...
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6 hours ago, 1965rivgs said:
Hi Kevin,
Did you check to see if your mechanic previously installed the correct seal? The specs on the repair sleeve look good, ie, shaft size 1.94 inches,
Tom
To be fair to him he put on the one i bought, again from good ol' Rock Auto..as per attached....
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...managed to find the attached on RockAuro of all places believe it or not....might as well give it a go..i'll keep you posted..
Thanks for all your responses
Kev
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Many thanks for getting back to me....4 bolts at the flange...
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Hi all
It’s a long story but I need a repair sleeve ...I’m dripping oil and a new seal didn’t fix...mechanic showed me the flange ant it has some grooves....
first question is if the sleeves are universal or I need a specific size/thickness? I didn’t think of measuring the flange when it was off the car....now it’s back on would rather leave it there until hopefully final repair....
secondly can I still use a stock rear opinion seal when reassembling or will I need diff size ?
lastly if any member has done this can they recommend a supplier?
thanks in advance
kev
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Hi all
Swapping out my fuel pump as its leaking oil (a little) and because it looks like the original...so its old..so good idea to nip any problems in the bud..
The instructions for my replacement from Airtex states that the rocker arm pad and the rocker arm cavity should be greased....does anyone actually do this? Any special type of grease or bog standard?
I'm curious as my research building up to this hasnt' produced any ref to greasing....
Cheers
Kev
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1 hour ago, arnulfo de l.a. said:
The original horn bar is still in one piece. I filled the cavity on the back with resin. Hopefully it will keep the bar in one piece.My question to those who still have the original horn bar; how is the fit?mine does not center perfectly and one side of the bar seems to sit deeper than the other if i tighten all three of the mounting screws all the way down. Also cannot get both sides of the bar to honk when depressed.only one side works. Thinking it is just the nature of the beast being the bar is an imperfect cast piece. Im still toying with it in hopes of getting both sides of the bar to work.What say you men with a gs steering wheel ?
I have an original option wood wheel option on
my 65...horn bar sits in centre, no mid alignment. All comes apart very easily so yr issue May be evident when you take all apart? In case it wasn’t honking because the ‘contact spring’ - If that’s correct terminology! - has lost its spring ..bought one on eBay .. cheaply...honks good now..
kev
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Glad my post has unearthed a treasure trove....
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Thanks all - re. telling the Air B'nB owners - I originally discounted this as I thought that it might appear suspicious if i told them some ''packages' were arriving for me!
As you prompted me to think again maybe as packages are coming from inside USA it would be OK...wish me luck!
Kev (will be NYC)
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Hi All
I'm visiting New York for a short holiday break in October - I've had the bright idea of buying a few Riv related bits and pieces, getting them delivered to where i'm staying and bringing them home to save on postage/import tax /VAT.
But - there is always a but... I'm staying in an Air B'n'B for only 4 days which is a short window to get things delivered - if they are delivered in time i'll no doubt be there anywhere, and don't know how the US deals with missed deliveries - and the wife wont to spend any time chasing the post office!
Its a long shot, but any ideas on how I can make this work?!
Thanks in advance
Kevin
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First generation Riv - next generation driver...
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Hi Tony
I found this link very handy with mine - though i still have a ciuple of patches of rust - where water gathered over the eyars after a rain shower/wash - which wont budge!
http://www.buickperformanceclub.com/rfinish.htm
Good luck
Kev
65 Riv - th400 slight shudder...worth checking the governor
in Buick Riviera
Posted
Just out of interest ...what would be symptoms of bad governor as opposed to modulator or torque converter ? Or are they so intertwined that it’s not as easy as that to answer...
cheers
kev