moran75
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Posts posted by moran75
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51 minutes ago, 1965rivgs said:
With the 2 wire plastic connector removed use a test light and determine which one of the two male terminals has power. Connect the dark green horn wire to the OTHER terminal. Now connect a jumper wire to the terminal that has power and ground it. This should cause the relay to transfer power to the horns.
If it doesnt, either your relay or the dark green wire between the relay and the horns is bad. You can narrow it down at that point by determining if the terminal which you connected the dark green wire to has power when you ground the other terminal. If it doesnt then the relay is bad assuming you are providing a good ground.
If it does cause the horns to blow, then you have an issue with the horn bar providing a ground for the relay when actuated/depressed. There are various points at which you can test the white/green stripe wire between the relay and the horn bar. When connected, and if the relay is doing what it should, the white/green stripe wire should have power all the way to the horn contact under the horn bar. You can test for this power at the base of the steering column where there is a connector or pull the horn bar off and check for power at the horn contact. If you have power on the horn contact, grounding the horn contact should trip the relay and blow the horns. If the horns work when you ground the contact but not when the horn bar is installed and actuated then the horn bar is not providing a ground.
All sounds much more complicated than it really is...just a simple relay whose control circuit is being grounded by depressing the horn bar.
Tom
Many thanks Tom... I’m away on hol for a few days tomorrow so will let you know how I get on when I’m back ...
in the subject of hols hols if you’re ever in UK with your son in law be sure to let me know...
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On 2/19/2019 at 3:25 PM, 1965rivgs said:
Kev,
I may have been mislead by the pic of your untouched connector...are you asking about the terminals within the plastic connector body? If so, there is a lock on the metal terminal. It is a little tab which can be released by inserted a terminal removal tool which basically resembles a long very thin screwdriver. I`ve used various methods, even a paper clip will suffice. You will see a small square window in the plastic body of the connector where the tool is inserted. Good luck,
Tom
Hi Tom
attached pic of new relay...there is a square plastic moulding visible at top left of relay which isn’t on the original...other than that and shape of relay the junction block looks just the same...
anyway, cleaned all connections from relay upto horns ... horns still don’t work...
kev
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52 minutes ago, 1965rivgs said:
Kev,
I may have been mislead by the pic of your untouched connector...are you asking about the terminals within the plastic connector body? If so, there is a lock on the metal terminal. It is a little tab which can be released by inserted a terminal removal tool which basically resembles a long very thin screwdriver. I`ve used various methods, even a paper clip will suffice. You will see a small square window in the plastic body of the connector where the tool is inserted. Good luck,
Tom
many thanks Tom ..that's right- the terminals within the plastic body...i'm up at the car tomorrow, will take a look..
the replacement was from oldbuickparts.com - had to buy complete as part of the junction block. The relay itself is rectangular, but lying on its longest side, if you see what i mean...i'll send a pic for reference tomorrow..
cheers
Kev
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Hi
ive attached a close up of my (old) horn relay which has recently been swapped for a new one..
re the electrical connector at the top - will the wires simply pull out complete with the metal parts of the connector for checking/cleaning? Or is there away to open the plastic outer part?
They don’t want to budge - albeit with currently only a gentle tug ...
while I’m at it where can I get authentic replacement connectors etc - if at all? I Like the idea of keeping the original look if I need to replace..
Note horn doesn’t work , though when wired independently they do. And new relay is good and clicking away - hence moving onto checking connections etc for possible corrosion etc
all the best
Kev
re the connector at the top ...w
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Quite right Schmiddy ..and when I (a Brit) negotiated buying my 65 with my (American) seller it was nothing like how they do it in Gas Monkey Garage!
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1 hour ago, 1965rivgs said:
Hi Kevin,
Its very common for the plates to loosen up as it appears they were originally installed with weatherstrip adhesive. I dont have a long term recommendation for a substitute adhesive but I`m sure others will as adhesives have come a long way in 50 years.
BTW, someone has installed the "front" decal in the wrong place. It should not be on the side of the air cleaner but should face the front.
Tom
Aha ..hadn’t really paid attn to that decal on the side...thanks for the info
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Hi all
My air cleaner currently sports a stick on decal.
I have the original metal one and i like the idea of restoring it to its rightful place...its not mis-shaped, and i prefer its natural 'patina' and that it is original to the car.
Pics attached.
HOWEVER - is there a reason why these got replaced in the first place? Do they just fall off, no matter what you stick it on with, especially second time around?
Any thoughts about the realistic possibility of sticking it back on gratefully received ..
All the best
Kev
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Hi all
i have what I believe is an early 1970’s double whitewall...came off the spare on my 65 Riv
Looks to be in great cond. Loads of tread, however it is 40 odd years old.
is there any value to it? I won’t be throwing it away - but maybe someone with a later Riv or similar could use it to complete a set?
attatched some pics including DOT code
thanks
kev
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Many thanks all.
BTW Carb is a carter Number 3921S which i believe is original to the car.
I’ll investigate in more detail next time I get her out bearing in mind all your comments and will get back to you with how it turns out .
Cheers
kev
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1 hour ago, Jim Cannon said:
This could also be a problem. How long has it been since the carb was rebuilt? Do you know?
The leather piston on the accelerator pumps do wear out. They also dry up if the car sits for extended periods of time, and not seal well.
And does the engine stumble on acceleration out on the road if you really stomp on the gas pedal, instead of a gentle press down?
There are little check balls and things in the carb that can get a bit of dirt or other crud on them to make them leak. When they do, you don't get a good initial spray of gas for the first part of the stroke. So stumble with small gas pedal movement, but no stumble when you really press down.
Or the piston could leak a bit on initial press, then seal and pump beyond that.
I was really just answering the question about "why can I see a spray when the engine's not running, but don't see it when it's running".
Interesting stuff....I got the carb rebuilt straightaway when I bought the car about 18 months ago...the kit was bought from rock auto.com and to be honest I don’t even know what was in the kit...I just forwarded on.
Ive noticed the hesitation on slight acceleration, like pulling away from lights ...I’m not much of a stomper but my wife is! I’ll ask her! I don’t think I’ll be taking itbout for a week or so but will put it through its paces ASAP and let you know...
many thanks for her info
kev
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Yes , I have the plate. I’ll get checking the bolts and hoses
many thanks
kev
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Hi all
My car has a slight hesitation under initial acceleration. Apart from that it runs very well. Vacuum advance working as it should by the way. With engine warm and running (in Park) and accelerator pump worked by hand there is no fuel shooting from accelerator pump jets. When engine off, fuel does shoot out of the pump jets- any clues as to what is wrong with carb? Or is all this a red herring?
Thanks in advance
Kevin -
Hi all
Page 6-14 of manual has a description for installing pinion seal with diff in car - for a 45000 series car....
But this description is omitted from the corresponding part of the manual for the 49000 series.
Can I assume the process/methodology is the same for the 49000(Riv)?
Also , any tips or additional advice re this process in the real world with a 50 year old car would be appreciated!
All the best
Kev
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Hi all
Re. throttle linkage adjustments -my manual (page 3-26) makes ref to throttle linkage in “hot curb idle” position ...I’m assuming this is just a fancy way of saying “at idle after engine is warmed up” - or am I missing something ?!
cheers
Kev
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Aha....many thanks...since posting my question I took a pic as I couldn’t really see what was going on , except that there was some free play going on... I’ve attached it here ...the triangular bit at the top ..is that a remnant of the tab you mentioned? Thanks , kev
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Hi All
im checking wiring for my kickdown/switch pitch...
I’ve unconnected the wires at the transmission ....I note that the connector that sticks out of the trans with the two prongs rotates quite freely ...is this is a sign that it’s not connected properly inside trans at the solenoid?
thanks
kev
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As a fellow European ...can I ask where you got the motor rebuilt ? Not that I need mine rebuilt -yet - but nailhead expertise appears to be thin on ground here in the Uk and I like to plan ahead!
Cheers
kev
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On 8/27/2015 at 9:23 PM, RivNut said:
I have a small impact wrench that tightens the nuts to about 80 lbs. I torque them from there. It's just faster than spinning a 4-way, and it takes them off quicker. I do start them by hand to make sure they're threaded correctly.
Ed
Hi Ed
....out of interest what do you torque them upto?...I believe it’s different for Rally wheels...
cheers
kev
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17 hours ago, 1965rivgs said:
Chewbacca,
Check the oil pressure with a mechanical gauge before you move on to additives, etc
Tom Mooney
Hi Tom
can you expand on that for the uninitiated?
kev
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Thanks chaps...all very informative. I’ll be leaving ‘as is’ - if it’s not broke dont fix it , as they say.
Get well soon Ed..sure you’ll be back out on the football field soon.
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Hi All
im running a stock 1965 riv 401ci.
interested in learning a bit about real world operation/benefits of the switch/variable pitch torque converter.
When working properly is the high setting automatically switched on when at a stop - in other words you have no choice- or is there some way of manually selecting it as and when you want to pull away a bit quicker from a stop? Off and on when desired?
all the best
kev
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Thanks for commenting so quickly...my door i'snt damaged, certainly not visibly..just slightly lob sided , like a badly hung front door..
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Hi All
My glove box door opens/closes but doesn't close flush with dash - slightly up on one side and down on other...very annoying as someone has now pointed it out...
Is there an easy adjustment, much like on kitchen doors?! Had a look and is not obvious, at least to me ....
Scoured the forum and the body service manual but no luck...
All the best
Kev
1965 Riviera - electrical connector ..before I break it...
in Buick Riviera
Posted
Thanks Mike...wouldn’t be surprised - I’ve had a few of these ‘after market’ issues such as an air cleaner that arrived looking like it came out of a Sherman tank....