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moran75

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Posts posted by moran75

    65 Riv - Accelerator pump working as it should?....

    in Buick Riviera

    Posted

    Hi all

     

    Want to learn a bit more about the workings of the accelerator pump...

     

    Running a 65 riv with original carter 4 bl AFB.

     

    Engine warm, but turned off - work throttle by hand and I see two nice jets of gas squirted into carb so Acc pump seems good.

     

    WhenI try same thing with engine running and in park there are no jets of gas - though engine revs/sounds good.

     

    Am I right in saying this is normal and somehow when engine is in D and actually driven,  the jets ‘do their thing’ upon initial acceleration? Maybe the vacuum facilitates this?

     

    The reason I’m  investigating is that I have a ‘bog’ spot when pulling away, but only when pulling away - my money at the moment is on the vacuum advance but that’s another story - at this point just want to learn a bit more about the pump and to confirm my conclusion that it’s working OK based on above tests .

     

    Thanks in advance

     

    Kev

    1965 heater control cables ‘sabotaged’?!

    in Buick Riviera

    Posted

    1 hour ago, KongaMan said:

     

    Yes.  If you want the AC to work optimally, the heater valve (cable control) and heater temperature door (cable control) need to be closed.  The heater air door (vacuum control) needs to be open.  I have no idea how your allegedly boogered cables may affect the position of the heater valve and temperature door, but both need to be closed.  You can close the valve and temperature door manually after disconnecting the cables, but you need a working diaphragm to open the air door (or remove the diaphragm, pull the door open, then clamp the control rod to hold it open).

     

    The heater valve controls the flow of coolant through the heater core.  The air door directs the air flow across the evaporator, heater core, or both.  The air door is controlled by a dual-stage diaphragm.  If the air door is fully open, all air goes across the evaporator.  If the air door is closed, all air flows towards the heater core.  If the air door is partially open, air flows both across the evaporator and towards the heater core.  The temperature door controls the amount of air across the core (as opposed to going around the core).

     

     

    Maybe.  You want the air flow to go across the evaporator rather than the heater core.  If the heater isn't working (plugged core, closed valve, whatever), you still need to make sure air is being directed across the evaporator.  If the air door is working properly, you can get full AC with an inoperative heater.  Having said that, you should get the whole thing working, if for no other reason than to be able to use the defroster.

    Excellent ...1000 thanks 

    1965 heater control cables ‘sabotaged’?!

    in Buick Riviera

    Posted

    47 minutes ago, KongaMan said:

    1. The heater control cable can be adjusted.  Perhaps it was "shortened" by turning the adjustment excessively.

    2. Disconnect the cable from the heater valve.  Make sure both the cable and valve work freely, then test the heater by opening it manually.  Lube them both.

    3. Manually close the heater valve to test the AC.

    4. Heater and AC blower controls go to the same place.  If the blower works on AC/vent, then the problem is likely with the controls.  Pull the controls from the console and make sure the harness is connected to the heater fan switch.  Note: it's a 4-speed blower, but AC/vent uses the top three speeds while heater/defrost uses the bottom three.  You can fix that.

    5. Test the diaphragms on the blower box.  There's a chart in the manual that lists which diaphragms are open on each control setting.  Go through the list and make sure everything's working right.  If a diaphragm is supposed to be engaged, grab the control rod and pull it to make sure it has travelled through the full range of motion.  If things are stuck or hard to move, pull the blower box and clean, lube, and reseal everything.

    6. Before pumping a couple of pounds of expensive R12 into an unknown system, check the drier window for bubbles.  If everything else is working and you don't see any bubbles, you might guess that the system is empty.  If that's the case, vacuum test it and install a new drier before filling it.

    So...quite a lot to get my head around...so bear with me...am I right in saying that if I don’t repair /adjust the cables, leave the heat/defroster levers as is - midway - and leave heater blower off...then even if all A/C system is perfect (just for arguments sake) then it won’t work properly because of the possibly engaged heater valves/diaphragms etc?

     

    or if the heater system is just not working at all, for what ever reason ,then I could repair A/C and use it as per normal despite the heater problems?

     

    thanks

     

    Kev

    1965 heater control cables ‘sabotaged’?!

    in Buick Riviera

    Posted

    Hi All

     

    Bear with me on this lengthy background - the straightforwad enough questions I have are at the end...

     

    I do have a manual and the section re combined heater/air con system is quite a read ...so before I get stuck in can I pick your brains...

     

    Current situation is :

    1) heater/defroster controls can only be moved from halfway point to full on. Cannot be moved from halfway to off position .

    2)blower doesn’t work

    3)no noticeable heat produced 

    4)air con blower works...both levers have free movement ...when blower on and levers sent to max I have air but not cold

     

    So when i I bought the car it hadn’t been used for years. The seller told md the previous owner had ‘deliberately cut the control cables for heater short’ - hence point (1) above. He didn’t know why someone would do that but was adamant about it.

     

    Question 1)  if the info given was correct does anyone know why anyone would want to deliberately stop heater control cables being switched off? Is it an old skool trick to prevent something ‘bad’ happening, with perhaps a failing heater core? Or anything else....

     

    By the way I can can live with current situation re heater levers/lack of blower/heat ....

     

    BUT

     

    question 2) i’dlike the A/C to work. Before I top up refrigerant will the fact that heater levers can’t be pulled to off position mean A/C won’t blow cold even if system/refrigerant is good?

     

    A bit long winded I know...but I got to the point in the end!

     

    cheers

     

    kev

     

     

    65 Riv in the United Kingdom - back to life at last...correct link now added!

    in Buick Riviera

    Posted

    1 hour ago, RIVNIK said:

    make sure you stay on the wrong side of the road

    ..interestingly the rest of Europe drives on the right side of the road because of the Emperor Napoleon's conquests in the 18th Century - its a French thing apparently. He didn't manage to conquer us...we liked the left historically because  as most people are right-handed, and swordsmen preferred to keep to the left in order to have their right arm nearer to an opponent and their scabbard further from him...why you guys didn't inherit that because of our 'shared' history is anyone's guess..

    • Haha 1

    65 Riv in the United Kingdom - back to life at last...correct link now added!

    in Buick Riviera

    Posted · Edited by moran75 (see edit history)

    Hi all

    At last -  after 10 years in storage (in the US) and then best part of a year with me in the UK 'tinkering' - my special order paint '65 has come back to life...here's a link to a short youtube video:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j2MZNAsxuK4

    Couldn't have done it without help from this forum so many thanks  to all  - very glad to return a 65 to the road where it belongs.....

    All the best

     

    Kev

     

    • Like 5
    • Thanks 2

    65 riv - re these original mats?

    in Buick Riviera

    Posted

    Hi all

     

    Is there a way of identifying original mats?

     

    I've attached a couple of pics of ref numbers on the back of mine - wondering if they were part numbers or other coding, possibily indicating after market or original..

     

    Just in case pics are not clear one number is '12-63: 4264L-PPI-D' and the other '4264R-PPI-P'

     

    Many thanks

     

    Kev

     

     

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    65 riv - slip spline plug?

    in Buick Riviera

    Posted

    Hi All

     

    If i'm correct the attached pics show the location (front access hole) and a close up of the propeller shaft slip spline plug ...

     

    In the absence of the 'correct tool' 'Adapter Alemite #327045 will i be able to simply take out the bolt and use an ordinary grease gun/needle to force in some grease? If so how many squirts?

     

    thanks in advance

     

    Kev

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    Diff gear oil - 1965 Riv

    in Buick Riviera

    Posted

    On 5/15/2018 at 12:52 AM, Seafoam65 said:

    If it were my car I would definitely  change the diff oil while you are in there, but I would use old fashioned 90 weight gear oil

    like what it came with when new. By the way, the ring gear bolts on these cars are known to back off and fall out, destroying

    the rear end gears. If you have the differential out of the pumpkin, be sure to check the tightness of these bolts while you are in there, and use loc tite on them when you go back with them.

     i'm guessing they used mineral based oil back in the day - any harm/advantage in using synthetic? I see synthetics have all kinds of GL ratings as well, bit mind boggling....Might be easier to ask which brand / type would you buy?...Cheers, Kev

    65 Riv - potential rusty/stuck distributor bolt?

    in Buick Riviera

    Posted

    Hi all

     

    I've attached a pic of what i'm assuming is my distributor hold down bolt ..

     

    Looking at  it has got me thinking - what happens if it's rusted tight and/or breaks off when i attempt to adjust timing? Maybe i think too much! But i'm just curious and anyway would  prefer to plan ahead for all eventualities...im giessing it would be a major PITA

     

    While i think of it does anyone know the bolt size? I only ask as my wrenches are all too long to get under there and i'd prefer not  to buy a set of shorter ones if i can just get away with buying the one i need...or a specialist distributor wrench..

     

    Cheers

     

    Kev

     

     

     

     

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    May be a daft question #2 - but only if you know the answer..

    in Buick Riviera

    Posted

    Hi all

     

    I've attached a pic of my horn relay set up , from a 65 Riv - i need to replace the relay and common sense suggests that it can just be pulled out of the - for want of a better word - black triangular bracket at the bottom..

     

    However i don't want to force anything that shouldn't be forced - best to check if its more complicated than that..

     

    Thanks in advance

     

    Kev

     

     

     

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    Diff gear oil - 1965 Riv

    in Buick Riviera

    Posted

    Hi all

     

    I have a leak from my diff..

     

    When i sort it out i'm thinking it makes sense to drain whatever is left and replace? I know the manual doesn't recommend doing so but under the circumstances and because of the age of the car it makes sense..

     

    Anyway any recommendations for modern gear oil to use?

     

    Diff is a 3.23 , non posi.

     

    Thanks

     

    Kev

    Preformed steel brake pipe sets .......

    in Buick Riviera

    Posted

    Hi All

     

    I'm tempted to but some steel/stainless steel pipe sets from classic tube for my 65 Riviera - partly because they look original but mainly because i perceive them to be hastle free in terms of flaring etc..

     

    However....does anyone have experience of fitting them to their car without luxury of having the engine/body off? Is it possible?

     

    I feel i may already know the answer though  - I'm thinking fitting the line front to back (the one inside the frame) would be a real big pain in the neck...I'm asuming being steel, although some small tweeks are possible/to be expected, this particulat would be impractical to install in a car that's not dismantled?

     

    Many thanks

     

    Kev

    seafoam or marvel mystery oil - simple as that

    in Buick Riviera

    Posted

    19 hours ago, 1965rivgs said:

    Why?

      Tom

    Im thinking aloud at mo, don’t really have specific reason for asking at this point other than judging by what’s under rocker covers I have a ‘dirty’ engine...car hasnt been driven out on road for 10 years 

     

    car is being recommisioned and is now running/starting very well,though not yet driven on road - but will be soon - who knows what that will reveal... I’ll cross that bridge when I get to it ..

     

    Re dirty engine - During a previous post it was suggested to run engine with a little MMO and change the oil,maybe more than once - seemed like a good idea to me ..but just out of interest, as I keep seeing Seafoam mentioned elsewhere on the web, I was wondering what opinions if it was any better than MMO....

    65 Riv Clamshell Linkage Upper 'Snap Ends'

    in Buick Riviera

    Posted

    Hi all

     

    All clamshell linkage is present and correct in the car - except i'm missing the screws that attach the 'snap ends' to the arms...see pic.

     

    I'm guessing that the missing item(s) are screws as opposed to nut/bolts as these would foul on the motor switches underneath?

     

    Anyway, main question is why there are two holes in the 'snap ends?' Do i need two screws for each? All pics ive seen show only one ....

     

    Thanks in advance

     

    Kev

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