moran75
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Posts posted by moran75
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Hi all
Re trim at bottom of electric bucket seat - I’ve attached an illustration re piece I’m referring to..
It looks like the only way to remove it is after the seat has been removed and physically turned upside down? Can anyone confirm or is there a way to get them it off a tad more easily.:.
all the best
kev
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Success....off and on with mixture of both methods...fixings still worked great...thanks all
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Hi all
Re. specifically the two straight strips either side of rear wheel well - one to bumper and other to door.
I understand they are fastened by what some people refer to as ‘bath tub’ style fasteners/clips.
Ive read a ref to the mouldings SLIDING off these ‘bath tubs’ - rather than being forced off by sliding one of those trim removing tools underneath and forcing them off OUTWARDS, if you see what I mean.
Just to double check is the sliding method of removal/Installation correct ? After removing curved wheel well trim first of course.....
thanks in advance
Kev
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20 hours ago, telriv said:
Kev,
The number 3921S is an original number. IF it had a revision it would have an A after the number, i.e. 3921SA or a B if a second revision.
Underneath that number would be the build date. Post some pics.
Tom T.
Def a 3921S...only checking with Jon re. comparability of the two diff aluminium choke housings he identified..all now ok ...thanks all
kev
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12 hours ago, carbking said:
The choke housings are different.
3503s - 170-785s
3921s - 170-839s (superseded by 170-911s)
Sorry.
Jon
Oakey dokey...re the 3921s and the superseded part number ...will either fit or will I need to make sure I find the specific part number that I’m replacing? If you see what I mean....
kev
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Thanks all for clarifications/advice, much appreciated.
kev
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Hi all
i have a four barrel Carter AFB 3921S - I need to swap out the aluminium choke housing - not the circular plastic part but just the aluminium section that piece screws on to. I have found someone selling a Carter 3503S which I believe was also an original carb for a ‘65 ... is it structurally different from my 3921S or will parts be compatible between the two?
cheers
kev
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Hi Gene
cheers...just sent email
thanks
kev
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Hi all
i live in UK and want to double check something before I mAke a purchase ...been caught out before...
I have a ‘65..with regards rear passenger side fender I need all the stainless steel trim - so that’s the curved wheel well, and two straight strips either side , one to bumper and other to door.
I’ve found all three but they are described as being applicable for ‘63-‘65.
to double check , did these bits of trim remain unchanged through those years as suggested by seller Or were they in fact Year specific?
thanks in advance
kev
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52 with a ‘65
whats rather average ?
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On 11/29/2020 at 2:04 PM, Hazdaz said:
What other things did they do to the Vette? Was this part of a whole tune up or even a rebuild?
Those numbers seem more in line with doing the spark plugs, wires, air and oil filters on a very neglected car. And even then I'd think they'd need to crack open the motor to get the 30% gains they are claiming.
Allegedly nothing else 😀
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Hi All
I'm researching a now defunct Buick dealer in Baltimore that sold my Riviera new in 1965. Address on the invoice is:
Buick - The Motor Sales Company
26 W.Mt Royal Avenue
Baltimore 1
(Saratoga 7-3311).
I'm pretty sure that the attached post card promo is the same place...though address on card doesn't quote no.26 - just street names and Saratoga 3311 - whatever that refers to...
Would anyone know of a resource/individual who collects details of old buick dealers as i'd really like to find an actual photo - searched all over the web and via various Maryland historical societies but with no luck..what i do know is that site was bought and redeveloped by the Univ of Baltimore.
Dealer may have been taken over by Pat Hays Buick before Univ of Baltimore bought the land - but that hasnt helped my search either....
1000 thanks in advance
Kev
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Just watched a TV show where a ‘69 Corvette with a 350 was dyno tested at 145 HP...the points were then changed to an electronic set up and the new test showed 190 HP..that’s a huge improvement..
I know the supposed advantages to reliability - don’t want to open that debate again or what’s best make to use...but is that kind of HP improvement really achievable?? Sounds too good to be true...
kev
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On 11/18/2020 at 11:28 PM, telriv said:
Yes, Paul I have done many with the new seals I have in stock. Used to even do many rope seals. The new ones are so much easier. What year car are we workin' on????
...with transmission still in as well? For a ‘65 Riv with a 401 ...is it a two piece seal ?
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Def from inside the trans? I had very similar sounding noise from that general area....in my case I’d describe it as a clicking, and like you only under acceleration/load...but in my case not in Park.....anyway, did same test as you and turned out to be coming from the very front UV joint on prop shaft...where it connects to trans...so maybe could be mistaken as coming from the trans itself?
the other tell take sign was rust coloured dust around the UV joint.
Maybe a long shot but if this does turn about your issue be careful where you get replacement UV joints from...a bit kryptic I know but haven’t got time to put into writing at the mo😀
Kev
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...update #2...after re-examining the balance I decided very quickly that I would not remove grille after all😀...immediately obvious that the valance isn’t coming out easy! At least I now know how the front end connects together...
Kev
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as an update, if anyone searches this subject and finds this post...
looking at a pic of a front valance on ebay it looks like their are seven 'dimples' which suggests that the grill has seven matching external mounting points which sit in these dimples...the studs screw up into the grill mounting points....so even with studs removed the valance needs to be dropped a bit - or completely...to allow the grille to be pulled out...
i think...we'll see how i get on
Kev
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Hi all
I’m tryng to get my grille out for cleaning etc.
I’ve removed the three bolt across the top and all 7 studs across the bottom...grille wobbles but doesn’t seem to want to come out....reluctant to force it ....am I missing something? Or does it need a bit of ‘help’? I’ve even removed two additional bolts, one at either end of underside just past last stud...
Past posts suggest maybe the ‘valance’ piece just behind bumper has to be moved but others say grille should just be pulled out with removal of studs...
thanks in advance
kev
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24 minutes ago, Seafoam65 said:
I know everyone on this site hates Original Parts Group, but they are the only source I have been able to find
for correct reproduction new fuel filters for our cars. They are correct in every way, painted the correct shade of blue with the
correct red lettering and AC logo. the non A/C ones are 30.99 and the A/C versions are 56.99.
aha - had already seen a brand new GF98 listed elsewhere but for all the listings a 1965 Riviera wasn't included in the suitable applications drop down list..up to this point have been looking for a GF423...but OPGI shows a 98 is OK...
BTW would you agree that its not a good idea to use a NOS filter?
Kev
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Hi All
I've seen a couple of NOS AC fuel filters for sale - but my instinct suggests to avoid using as they must have a (expired) shelf life? But if i want anything except those horrible (and too small) shiny things is there an alternative that looks like what in my minds eye fuel filters looked like back in the day? The guys who win best of class at shows must have something that looks original from somewhere?
Checked CARS and similar but only see the usual offerings...
Many thanks
Kev
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Hi all
can anyone advise correct colour of the bendix cap? I’ve had a look at some pics on the group and I see some are black..but some are grey/metallic ...
thanks in advance ..
kev
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Hi all
re my 65 Riv , A/C, 401ci.
ive checked my manual re correct routing of return fuel line and all seemed straightforward.
However on the car itself I can’t see any clips/strap as shown in manual, IE after routing line under A/C compressor. BTW don’t know if it’s an A/C modified car (as noted as a possibility on diagram) so I don’t know if its a strap or clip that I should be looking for. Either way unless I’m blind can’t see either.
which is surprising as absolutely everything else on the car is still as per manual - very original.
can anyone load a pic of what I should be looking for?
thanks in advance
kev
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On 9/8/2020 at 8:06 PM, psychostang said:
So far, no one as ever come up with a factual reason for the little star. I think that would be the find of the century.
special order paint , i was led to believe?...
Kev
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I believe the asterisk denotes special order paint...i have the same. Well almost, in my case asterisk is preceded by SCO-1091 which i believe also evidences special order paint?...anyway attached a pic.
'
Actual colour used for the special order paint isn't recorded on the plate like a standard colour....in my case i'm lucky in that i have a copy of the invoice which does show actual colour...
Mine is a 1965 - judging by statistics found on owners website there were less than 100 special order paint cars that year though individual
colour breakdowns were not recorded back in the day. I guess it was a very rare option in 1964 as well...
BTW I've heard anecdotally that special order paints tended to be cadillac colours - mine is.
Kev
65 Riv - electric seat trim pieces
in Buick Riviera
Posted
Thanks chaps...only reason I’m asking is that the carpet seems to be caught on something under there and is bunching up a tad ...I think I’ll leave trim/seat as they are and just see if I can push carpet back a little with my fingers
all the best
kev