moran75

Thanks Mike...wouldn’t be surprised - I’ve had a few of these ‘after market’ issues such as an air cleaner that arrived looking like it came out of a Sherman tank....

Many thanks Tom... I’m away on hol for a few days tomorrow so will let you know how I get on when I’m back ... in the subject of hols hols if you’re ever in UK with your son in law be sure to let me know...

Hi Tom attached pic of new relay...there is a square plastic moulding visible at top left of relay which isn’t on the original...other than that and shape of relay the junction block looks just the same... anyway, cleaned all connections from relay upto horns ... horns still don’t work... kev

many thanks Tom ..that's right- the terminals within the plastic body...i'm up at the car tomorrow, will take a look.. the replacement was from oldbuickparts.com - had to buy complete as part of the junction block. The relay itself is rectangular, but lying on its longest side, if you see what i mean...i'll send a pic for reference tomorrow.. cheers Kev

Hi ive attached a close up of my (old) horn relay which has recently been swapped for a new one.. re the electrical connector at the top - will the wires simply pull out complete with the metal parts of the connector for checking/cleaning? Or is there away to open the plastic outer part? They don’t want to budge - albeit with currently only a gentle tug ... while I’m at it where can I get authentic replacement connectors etc - if at all? I Like the idea of keeping the original look if I need to replace.. Note horn doesn’t work , though when wired independently they do. And new relay is good and clicking away - hence moving onto checking connections etc for possible corrosion etc all the best Kev re the connector at the top ...w

Quite right Schmiddy ..and when I (a Brit) negotiated buying my 65 with my (American) seller it was nothing like how they do it in Gas Monkey Garage!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5wDkXn2e8LU&fbclid=IwAR0KnaIC4aRPWfQYZYGUcIJyyTCzTrNIQpYbq-7nF7BpXVSEB880Xox3gtw

Aha ..hadn’t really paid attn to that decal on the side...thanks for the info

Hi all My air cleaner currently sports a stick on decal. I have the original metal one and i like the idea of restoring it to its rightful place...its not mis-shaped, and i prefer its natural 'patina' and that it is original to the car. Pics attached. HOWEVER - is there a reason why these got replaced in the first place? Do they just fall off, no matter what you stick it on with, especially second time around? Any thoughts about the realistic possibility of sticking it back on gratefully received .. All the best Kev

Hi all i have what I believe is an early 1970’s double whitewall...came off the spare on my 65 Riv Looks to be in great cond. Loads of tread, however it is 40 odd years old. is there any value to it? I won’t be throwing it away - but maybe someone with a later Riv or similar could use it to complete a set? attatched some pics including DOT code thanks kev

Many thanks all. BTW Carb is a carter Number 3921S which i believe is original to the car. I’ll investigate in more detail next time I get her out bearing in mind all your comments and will get back to you with how it turns out . Cheers kev

Interesting stuff....I got the carb rebuilt straightaway when I bought the car about 18 months ago...the kit was bought from rock auto.com and to be honest I don’t even know what was in the kit...I just forwarded on. Ive noticed the hesitation on slight acceleration, like pulling away from lights ...I’m not much of a stomper but my wife is! I’ll ask her! I don’t think I’ll be taking itbout for a week or so but will put it through its paces ASAP and let you know... many thanks for her info kev

Yes , I have the plate. I’ll get checking the bolts and hoses many thanks kev

Hi all My car has a slight hesitation under initial acceleration. Apart from that it runs very well. Vacuum advance working as it should by the way. With engine warm and running (in Park) and accelerator pump worked by hand there is no fuel shooting from accelerator pump jets. When engine off, fuel does shoot out of the pump jets- any clues as to what is wrong with carb? Or is all this a red herring? Thanks in advance Kevin

Hi all Page 6-14 of manual has a description for installing pinion seal with diff in car - for a 45000 series car.... But this description is omitted from the corresponding part of the manual for the 49000 series. Can I assume the process/methodology is the same for the 49000(Riv)? Also , any tips or additional advice re this process in the real world with a 50 year old car would be appreciated! All the best Kev

Hi all Re. throttle linkage adjustments -my manual (page 3-26) makes ref to throttle linkage in “hot curb idle” position ...I’m assuming this is just a fancy way of saying “at idle after engine is warmed up” - or am I missing something ?! cheers Kev

Aha....many thanks...since posting my question I took a pic as I couldn’t really see what was going on , except that there was some free play going on... I’ve attached it here ...the triangular bit at the top ..is that a remnant of the tab you mentioned? Thanks , kev

Hi All im checking wiring for my kickdown/switch pitch... I’ve unconnected the wires at the transmission ....I note that the connector that sticks out of the trans with the two prongs rotates quite freely ...is this is a sign that it’s not connected properly inside trans at the solenoid? thanks kev

As a fellow European ...can I ask where you got the motor rebuilt ? Not that I need mine rebuilt -yet - but nailhead expertise appears to be thin on ground here in the Uk and I like to plan ahead! Cheers kev

Hi Ed ....out of interest what do you torque them upto?...I believe it’s different for Rally wheels... cheers kev

Hi Tom can you expand on that for the uninitiated? kev

Thanks chaps...all very informative. I’ll be leaving ‘as is’ - if it’s not broke dont fix it , as they say. Get well soon Ed..sure you’ll be back out on the football field soon.

Hi All im running a stock 1965 riv 401ci. interested in learning a bit about real world operation/benefits of the switch/variable pitch torque converter. When working properly is the high setting automatically switched on when at a stop - in other words you have no choice- or is there some way of manually selecting it as and when you want to pull away a bit quicker from a stop? Off and on when desired? all the best kev

Thanks for commenting so quickly...my door i'snt damaged, certainly not visibly..just slightly lob sided , like a badly hung front door..

Hi All My glove box door opens/closes but doesn't close flush with dash - slightly up on one side and down on other...very annoying as someone has now pointed it out... Is there an easy adjustment, much like on kitchen doors?! Had a look and is not obvious, at least to me .... Scoured the forum and the body service manual but no luck... All the best Kev