neil morse
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Posts posted by neil morse
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Ken, did you get it out yet? I don't think I can be much help because, like Mike, all I remember is that I followed the procedure in the manual and the switch turned the extra 30 degrees and popped out. Could it be that the "heavy-duty" paper clip is actually too big (thick) to trip whatever kind of button there is under the part of the switch that turns? I'm just guessing here. Like Mike, I didn't take any pics of what it looked like under there once the switch was removed, nor do I remember. Good luck.
Neil
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Two great Kodachromes from The Old Motor today.
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2 minutes ago, Marty Roth said:
Almost missed the black '47/'48 (3rd on right) parked at "Pismo Malt Shop"'-
Wonder what the tab would be for their Clam Chowder and the Chops??
Does that say "chops" or "chips?' I can't quite make it out. I thought it might be the second half of "Fish and Chips."
Marty, what do you make of the third car back on the left, right behind the Chevy that is very badly parked? DeSoto Suburban, with the same great roof rack that was featured on the Chrysler Town and Country sedan? It doesn't quite look long enough to be a Suburban, but that may be a distortion in the photo.
Also, what is the car six cars back on the left, with the fully skirted rear fenders? I was thinking '48 Packard, but something doesn't quite look right about it.
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Another good MoPar at a great price -- but I fear that the price is so good that it's going to end up as a hot rod or "restomod."
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32 minutes ago, Marty Roth said:
or maybe even an adult beverage
My choice for sure. I might even have a Sazerac in your honor! ☺️
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4 hours ago, Marty Roth said:
Two in the first row,
none in the second row,
One headed toward the right (white /black roof), and possible a '41 Limited ahead and to the left of it?
A '46? and a '52 in the 3rd row,
2nd from right in 5th row
then my eyes crossed and I headed to the kitchen for a stiff cuppa' coffee and chickory
@Marty Roth Yeah, the resolution isn't too great in this shot if you try to blow it up, definitely eye-crossing material.
I only see one Buick in the first row (all the way over on the left with the white top), but I'm pretty sure there's one in the second row right below the white/black one you mention that's heading to the right. What do you think? The possible Limited doesn't look quite right to me -- it seems to have a MoPar look in the hind quarters.
I think I see the '52 in the third row (the last car to the left in the center rank with the white top?), and wonder if that's the '46 three cars to the right, next to an Olds? Very hard to see back there. However, I agree that the 2nd from the right in the fifth row has a definite Buick look around the mouth, and is that a Nash next to it?
How about that two tone three-window coupe coming around the corner in the foreground? Gotta be a Zephyr, don't you think? But I don't think that's a factory paint scheme. Also, it looks a little stubby, but I think that's a distortion in the photo.
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Lee, are you a BCA member? If you are doing a "show car" and anticipate being judged, you should definitely get a copy of the judging standards and study them. Also, as a club member, you would have access to technical advisors for every year Buick. Doug Seybold, the advisor for 1940, is an expert on 1940 and 1941 Buicks and will answer all your questions very authoritatively. I think you will get better answers by going that route than by posting your questions here where people will be trying their best to answer your questions but may not know the "correct" answer from the standpoint of judging.
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1 hour ago, Brass is Best said:
Maybe the seller dose not want their ad posted on this site? Did you ask for permission to repost the ad?
I assume you're trying to make a rhetorical point, rather than asking a serious question. The seller has posted a public ad on Facebook. He has no control over how that ad is disseminated after that. No permission is required. As I said before, I think it provides a benefit to forum members to repost ads here.
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Matt, I have two thoughts after watching your video:
1. I have never soldered anything using the set up that you are using, i.e., having the part of the wire you are trying to solder extending a few inches from a vise. I always have the terminal and the wire down on a piece of wood on my bench where I can firmly hold the iron against the part I want to heat up. I'm wondering if the floppy wire is preventing you from ever getting the iron on the terminal firmly enough to transfer the heat you need to melt the solder. It looks from the video as if the iron is never really holding contact with the terminal for long enough. Even with a hot iron, it takes a few seconds for the heat to transfer. Try clamping the wire to a piece of scrap wood on your bench and firmly holding the iron against the terminal. I'm pretty sure you will pretty quickly find that you have heated the terminal sufficiently to melt the solder and allow it to flow into the right places. (I'm assuming here that the terminal is the kind intended to be soldered. As Matt Hinson also points out, you have to have the right kind of terminal to begin with).
2. The tip of your iron seems plenty hot, but a problem that I've sometimes had is that the set screw that holds the soldering tip in place is not completely tight. As I say, yours seems plenty hot from the video, but I'm just throwing that idea out there as well because I once had a situation where the barrel of the iron was getting very hot but the tip was still not doing the job, and the solution turned out to be a loose set screw.
Hang in there and please don't stick the soldering iron in your eye. That is not a proper technique and will cost you style points for sure. 😉
Neil
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On 5/29/2020 at 3:50 PM, Matt Harwood said:
Now THAT is cool! I'd love to have a wagon with buckets and a 4-speed.
When I was 16 I knew a girl whose father had a brand new '64 Impala wagon with a 409 and a four speed. Very cool car.
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6 hours ago, SpeedyBuick said:
so what do I need to be looking at very closely when looking to buy one of these? I know about hidden rust etc etc. I have a lot of classic Buick experience but that's with 64-72 Buicks. nothing prewar.
Hi Speedy:
Matt Harwood's excellent 1941 Buick Buyer's Guide will answer exactly the questions you are asking.
http://www.harwoodperformance.bizland.com/1941buick/1941_buick_buyers_guide.htm
Neil
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2 hours ago, Brass is Best said:
Folks should not post cars they do not own. It just promotes and helps scammers.
Do you know that this car is being marketed by a scammer? I posted a link to the FB Marketplace ad simply because I saw it and thought it might be interesting to some people on the forum. Then someone else found the same car listed on a site that apparently some people think is "suspicious" and "not legitimate." So now the seller has been branded as a "scammer." I just disagree with you about this. If anyone finds the original FB ad I posted interesting, they can contact the seller and draw their own conclusions. As I said in my original post, it looks like an interesting car at a reasonable price, assuming it's what the seller claims it is. I am not vouching for the seller in any way. But if I were looking for a Century, I wouldn't hesitate to contact the seller and at least see how he came across in the interaction.
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Haha -- I'm sorry but I have to laugh when I think about the fact that you're concerned with the back sides of the wheels compared to the things I'm dealing with. But if you want to have a 100 point show car (and I'm sure your car is close), then i guess you have to be concerned about such things. However, I still don't understand your question about the type of paint that was originally used by Buick. If you want to paint the back sides of your wheels to match the front side, surely you will want to use the same kind of paint that was used on the front side, right? You say that they are not "bad enough to do a re-paint," but then you say that they are coming off and will be "done to match the rest." I'm confused, but either way, I would think you would want the back side of the wheels to match the front side, in other words, to be painted with the same paint as the front sides.
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Since your paint isn't original, it seems irrelevant what Buick used originally. The question is what kind of paint was used when your car was repainted. The last time we discussed touch up paint, you seemed to agree with me that the seller must have information about the repaint, since it's apparent from the photos that your car has been repainted (and very beautifully, it would appear)! What happened when you tried to find out about the most recent repaint of your car?
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Is it the weekend yet on Friday afternoon? What do I care -- I'm retired -- every day is Saturday now! 😜 Anyhow, went for a spin this afternoon and admired my beautiful city from a hilltop.
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Thanks for posting this! It works great -- I found a lot of nice cars to look at.
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I agree -- a great "time capsule" car, but the seller is a little optimistic on the price.
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On 5/17/2020 at 3:42 PM, cevensky said:
ALSO: the heater core under the seat puts off quite a bit of heat on my ankles... is there a control for it or is it always on...?
On my Buick, there's a valve where the hose exits the thermostat housing. Your car may also have been equipped with this. The idea was that it could be shut off during the spring and summer months and then opened for the fall and winter..
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Two things:
(1) He wants to trade for a boat. He already has a boat!! 😄
(2) All that green -- very 1973, for sure!
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Great looking car! That curved windshield was trend-setting for the period for sure. A great project for someone -- unfortunately, too much for me right now. Good luck with the sale.
My long build of a 1940 56S
in Me and My Buick
Posted
I looked in the '41 shop manual and I see the same reference to "testing tool HMO-204." I don't know what it is, but it sounds like it's a device that mimics the function of the sending unit on the tank so that you can test the gauge dash unit without dropping the tank. I would be very surprised if any of these tools are still in existence.
Did you see the excellent article by Pete Phillips in the May issue of the Buick Bugle on how to trouble shoot and repair a gauge when it always reads empty? Which problem do you have? Does it always read full or always read empty? There are some pretty easy things you can do to isolate the problem depending on which symptom you have. Dropping the tank is actually not very difficult.